What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I just ran into it a few days ago. I to saw a while back, but back then they didn’t make one for our Tundras.

 

Driving home last night I realized my new headlights are similar to what I had before with the h1 projectors, but just with better light quality. The cutoff line is more pronounced. I'm not sure if this is an h1 vs D2 style bulb deal or a 2.5" vs 3" projector deal. I'm happy I upgraded to the D2 style projector, and I'm impressed with how the budget h1 setup gave me maybe 75% of what the D2 setup gave me.

Long story short... If you are on a budget and want to retrofit some headlights. You can go with cheaper h1 projectors and fiddle with them a bit and get some awesome light output and quality that will make factory headlights seem like candles. If you want to spend twice as much you can have even better quality, but you might not even notice the difference between the two options unless you have the budget h1 setup first.

Slightly related: what are my budget h1 headlights worth? I was going to try and sell them locally. I doubt I'll have any luck, but there's hope some 05/06 tundra or sequoia aficionado snags them. What's a fair price for the just headlights without bulbs or electronics?

Hit me up if you have any specific questions. This thread should answer any questions you might run into if you aren't extremely familiar with the process.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...ofit-w-mini-h1-7-0-bi-xenon-projectors.41187/

 

Do tell more. I added washers underneath but wondering if your method would work better.

 

Which H1 projectors did you have? I changed my ACME super H1 to Morimoto D2S and it was a huge improvement. But I wish I had used the D2S projectors you got. My biggest beef with the ACME super is there is a ton of foreground light so I can see really well 10 feet in front of me, but it washes out the light farther than that.

 

They were the cheap nilite h1 projectors. They actually had pretty good light after I shimmed the bulb holder. I definitely gained light everywhere with the exception of the hot spot right below cutoff that the h1 had. Foreground light was lacking on my h1 more than anywhere else. I'm being completely serious when I say that those cheap H1 projectors amazed me. The reviews on Amazon show I'm not the only person enjoying a lot better light for little money. The D2 just has better light quality for me. Not a real defined hot spot, but brighter everywhere else.
I'm sure your morimotos are better than my D2s. Mine weren't any big name brand. I think they were just rebranded nhk knockoffs or something.

 

Confirmed I need 4.88’s and long tubes!!

 

I thinkin' bout two-fiddy.
Good lord, that's a lotta money!

 

I might try somewhere around there and expect the usual "will you take $50 or $75?". People make it hard to not be a hoarder. So many parts I've tried to sell and have given up. See also- why I own two running driving vehicles I don't drive, why I have perfectly good engine parts I'll never use, etc.

 

Preaching to the choir, here.

In many cases as of late, I've resorted to charitably giving things away to people I know could really, really get good use out of it, just to avoid the BS tire kickers and 'choosing beggars' expecting to give you half the ask price or less on listings. "My son has cancer", "it's my kids bday", then wtf you doing shopping for parts, MF?!

 

I have 4:88s in my truck and love them.

 

What tire size and what be kind of gas mileage do you get?

 

Yukon or Nitro? What size tires? Did you add an arb or harrop?

 

Do you also get crappy gas mileage? I swear I used to be able to average 17 on a tank and I've been around 13-14 all this year. My truck needs a tune up, but I don't see it gaining one or multiple miles per gallon from that.

 

12.4 on the highway during my recent trip, but I was also in it A LOT passing stupid campers in the fast lane

 

I didn’t even get 17 stock, 16 was average. Ive consistently gotten 13-14 for 2.5 years but I only really drive the truck on camping trips now. Weighed down and never flat. 170 mile work trip today and got a whopping 9.4 towing the 5k trailer. But I was going 65+.

 

Hey Chris, what gears are you running now?

 

I went with Yukon gear and have had no issues. I’m getting about 15 mpg. I’m running Cooper Discoverer/T MAXX LT295/70r18.

 

4.88 with that size I imagine.

 

Did the nut strip?

 

Factory 4.10’s

 

I chronically track my MPG. Best I've ever gotten was on a road trip - ONCE - at 16.2mpg. 2nd best I've ever gotten on a road trip where mountains were involved was 14.3mpg. I drive pretty chill and steady. I'm not the kinda guy who guns it a lot off the line, nor hits WOT passing, other gas-chuggy stuff.

My driving these days is 50/50 highway and city. I'm averaging about 12-14mpg on that this year, maybe a little more city as of late. I'd be shocked if I ever hit a 17 with any regularity, even with straight-line no-mountain highway miles. I'm guessing my rig is probably a couple hundred # lighter than yours too?

 

I wanna know why tundras didnt get diffs in the low 3’s when they got the a750 5 speed. The vvt engine should be able to carry the engine along at 1700rpm @60.

i think the tallest ive found was 3.73, but i can fiddle the o/d button and make a 3.23 work.

probably the trans controller making things soft and gentle and not knowing

bone stock with bassani’s my best has been 17.7, but i copied that with an atv in the back. But average is closer to 16.8 because i like the noise it makes when i push it. The titan can get 21, regularly gets 19 and averages about 18 because i like the way the magnaflows sound, but that truck has a manual mode like an up/down lever on the shift stalk, and has some pretty good backlash rumble.

 

I'm still able to get around 17mpg on road trips. That's with full camping gear, two dogs, bed full of firewood and camper shell. I'm easy on the skinny pedal though and my tires are only 32.8".

 

You have the factory speed governor on yours though(white paint). That helps a lot.

 

The sequioa got high 18’s before the diff replacement and high 17’s after. I wonder if that was a swap of 4.10s and 3.90s. But its 2wd.

i should clarify, it went from mid 18’s to high 18’s with some tweaking, then from high 15’s to high-mid 17’s after retweaking. Ive got a cold iat, a touch of extra backpressure in the exhaust, and a duct in the fender to catch a pressure signal from in front of the rad.

 

So what I'm hearing is... If I wanna get over 15mpg in a double cab with 35s I need to swap a healthy 5.3 in there. Don't act like nobody said it. I heard what I wanted to hear.

How Toyota was only able to get 275hp from an overhead cam 4.7 with variable valve timing is beyond me. The GM 4.8 makes 255 and the 5.3 makes somewhere around 275 stock. Shouldn't vvti be like having a bigger cam in an old dinosaur of a pushrod engine? It's just weird to me that a cammed 4.8 would likely still be an upgrade over the 4.7 and the tech in the 4.7 seems night and day more modern than a pushrod engine. Make that a cammed 5.3 and it's like putting a small turbo on the 4.7

I know I'm on it again. Anyway...
I've asked before, but does anyone else run the ethanol free gas? It gives me, no joke, .5-1 mpg better over mid grade or premium and it costs usually as much or slightly less than premium around here.

 

I live in the corn belt, so it’s almost non existent, and when you do find it, it’s 30-40 cents more than premium. I tried to do a calc on my trip but the pump shut off at 75$ so I didn’t get a full tank to test the mileage with.

 

Today I decided to go ahead and do the GX460 brake upgrade. I’ve had the parts sitting for a few weeks and I’m going back to pismo beach dunes this weekend so why not…

went pretty smooth on the passenger side. Driver side had a leak where the brake hose meets the caliper due to the surface not being flat. Small imperfection. Rebuilt calipers… scrambled to the parts store to find the last 2 pack of crush washers. Got the air out of the system test drive and I hear horrible metal on metal. Dust shields were to blame. I bent them back a little problem solved. I read on it before but I decided to skip on going back and looking info up. Just went for it. Well she stops and I’m done for the night. Good times. Celebrated with tacos and a cold one.

I went with oem rebuilds. Didn’t want new castings. Had machined locally in Oakland CA

EBC rotors and yellow stuff brake pads.

crown performance brake lines. They are really nice and seem like top quality.

 

Do you have a write up or a link for this swap?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-2006-tundra-big-brake-upgrade-kit-14wa-calipers.61231/

Here’s a start