General Supercharger Thread

Thanks.
So the common thread seems to be these are all methods to increase the volume.

 

Only way to lower compression is to increase combustion chamber volume. Destroke, dished pistons, larger head volume, or thicker head gasket are the only ways to do that. Typically a dished pistons is the most common if you're serious, a thicker head gasket doesnt significantly increase the volume and destroking is relatively uncommon and more for running higher RPM.

 

Are you going to let dinesh do the dyno tune?

I ordered the handheld tuner and just waiting for shipping.

 

we'll see.

he has to get past my 20 questions!

I'm back to the p0171 & p0174 codes. only when i idle longer than a minute.

the difference? a frigid cold front in Houston...we got to 58 last night!

maybe the ECU needs to learn the cool dry air ?

it clears fine. and I run perfect in all other instances.

 

Re: P0171 & P0174 codes

I'm thinking I have a vacuum leak....maybe a loose connection?

what's the easiest way to check this?

 

I just thought about something. When I picked my truck up my mechanic had noticed that on the Harrop provided intake tube there is 2 rubber bungs. The one closest to the intake box is used for a vent tube. The one next to the MAF is not used with the replacement FPR. He noticed that the hole went all the way through and a plug was not provided. I asked a Harrop vendor about it, and he said it should be plugged so that’s what we did. Just a thought, although I’m not sure if that would matter since it’s before the MAF.

 

well. at 1st inspection I could find no leaks....the Harrop hole was plugged with the right bung.

Tonight, I'll do the ole carb cleaner while idling trick.

it only throws the code (P0171/P0174) at idle.

any ideas?

 

FYI from the install manual:

Preparation
Testing has shown the OE fuel pump (Toyota OEM 232200S011) does not deliver enough fuel for a supercharged 3UR-FE at full load. Therefore, the fuel pump will be replaced during installation. Ensure the fuel tank contains minimal fuel, and that there is a supply of suitable fuel available to add to the tank after installation is complete. E85 fuel is not compatible.

Initial engine start
Minimum 91-AKI (93-RON) fuel must be used. E85 fuel is not to be used.

 

forgot to add....when it popped the code a couple days ago - I was looking at my scanguage A/F ratio...it never went below 14.5 at idle...still popped the code.

now that warm moist air has rolled into Houston, all is well. The motor likes fog. I guess it's an air density thing?

Maybe the ECU needs to learn dry air, as it was installed in ~june & yet to see cool dry air.

anywho....Damn the torpedos!...Stage 2 coming soon.

 

https://www.lextreme.com/toyota-3ur-fe-performance-parts-2007/

Dished 8.5:1 forged pistons anyone?

“The current price is $1100 plus $40 shipping. If you plan to run greater then 10 psi on Tundra, then you will need these pistons. We are currently carrying all 3URFE pistons with compression and overbore size of choice.”

 

the answer to the question I was going to ask next month.....

 

Some threads of interest:


https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/build-800-hp-tundra.295601/

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/2-engines-blown-in-2-months-forged-5-7-build-thread.609033/

 

after reading thru those.....Stage 1 is real nice.

can you imagine how long one would have to wait for parts, in these times, if something broke?

6 psi is fine for now.

 

I can’t help but wonder what happens when one would need to sell/trade in a heavily modified vehicle. Or the insurance doesn’t want to cover any mods. I had about $10k sunk into my 2018 Tahoe by the time I traded it in for the 2021 Sequoia. The Toyota dealer gave me a fair price, but nowhere near the combined expenses.
Stage 1 is easy to return to stock when needed.

 

@nobodyintexas Great point! I'm interested in higher performance as well but the supply chain issues are a big concern.

I'll post some more as I find them and read through them. Common theme tranny and internals are an issue as you get closer or surpass 600 HP. The BRX guy heat welded his 5th gear as he was pushing 1000HP; not sure if it was in one of the posts I linked or a separate thread (think he had a 1000HP thread).

Lower compression was talked about, comments I saw is the engine ran like shit but most didn't talk through their builds and were drive by comments.

@sd172 I've not sold a modded vehicle but its a sunk cost in most cases unless you have a rare vehicle. I think some buyers will assume the car was abused and don't want the hassle to restore the truck to OEM

 

I think if you do stuff besides bolt ons yours not too worried about resale let alone trade in value. Someone will always buy it, just a matter of finding that person. Or like you said, if you want to get every penny back then the easy option is stay stock

 

Never speak these words again!

 

Blasphemy!

 

I haven’t experienced any of these lean codes on mine under any circumstances, nor have I heard of others. Someone on another post elsewhere that I was following was chasing the same codes and just finally found a torn vacuum line under the supercharger at the front of the engine (they have a magnuson). It wasn’t even visible until moving the line around since it was on the bottom side. I’d be checking all of your vacuum lines under super close inspection. If that is the issue it will follow you to stage 2 and a tune, and when you’re running more timing and bigger power then it could probably cause more catastrophic results if it causes a failure.

 

thanks for the thoughts on the lean codes.

Harrop concurred with your thoughts. it's got to be a small hidden leak.

this will be my weekend project.



y'all have an awesome weekend!

 

I remember reading somewhere about building the V8 engine but I'm not sure if it was this site https://xatracing.com/xat-built-3ur-or-1ur-engine-short-block-3urfe.html but looks like they can help with getting over 1000 hp!

 

The guy running the turbo got his to 1200+ HP in one of his videos, the build is discussed here some:
https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/1000hp-twin-turbo-tundra-build.747610/

 

I reckon if I wanted 1200+ hp I'd have to call Steve morris engines.

 

Some of those engine builds look absolutely insane

https://youtu.be/vfvCuRMGDwY

 

WOW!

 

Exactly...this right here...

I am thoroughly enjoying this ride. not, the least bit concerned about trade in value. I'll get what i negotiate.

I'll get at least 8 years out of it...i traded in an '06 Sequoia for it! that ride was bullet proof.

 

It is all about the perceived value. Did I have fun modifying my Tahoe? Absolutely. Did I do some minor mods to the Sequoia? Yes.
Do I want to keep the powertrain stock? We shall see.

 

Is the 19-20 on the magnuson website a new thing? I haven’t looked in a while. I see the power numbers are different that an 18 or prior. Also a note about a small starter issue on 20s. Looks to me like they’ve got a tune worked out.

 

That is new...wonder why the hp and torque dropped a bit.

 

And this:
**Attention model year 2020 Toyota Tundra starters will remain energized for 3-5 seconds as a known effect of the calibration. Note the starter will NOT remain engaged once the engine is running and therefore will not have a detrimental effect on the starter or ring gear.