JBA shorty Header install

The two aftermarket drop in filters I have used both whistled in the stock airbox (K&N and Airaid dry).

Good to hear you got it wrapped up. After a good drive you'll like the more glug-glug sound at idle.

 

I had a buddy in high school, super funny dude, to replicate the the sound of a burnout using words, he would say in sort of a shreeky voice, "HERBAL TEA" !!!!!
We still laugh about that.

 

Does it take a while for the glug glug sound? I can’t tell any difference as of now besides the whistle, heck if anything seems like it’s a little quieter lol.

 

On mine I didn't notice it for a few days. It might have dependency on how your exhaust sounds from the start though, I have no resonator and having one might absorb/cancel some pulse noises.

 

I'm planning on doing a SoCal/AZ roll call tour over winter when I drive it here. I'm still peaking and poking around your dungeon lookin for you.

 

So drove a bit today and I noticed the “Glug Glug” sound for a brief moment. It’s was exhilarating lol. Noticed a good bit of getup n go as well. Low range torque has increased, we’ll see how she does on the freeway soon enough.

And it seems my drone is completely gone now… find myself contemplating spending $$$ to remove the resonator. I am fairly sure I lost a little umph when it went on.

 

I think I just freaked out or confused half my dorm shrieking this. but yeah he's right, you can make it sound super similar.

 

Alright I've driven enough to say I love these new Headers! She is driving like a freaking CHAMP! I wasn't expecting this much of a boost in performance. Start offs and in the freeway as well, great get up n go with a slight tap on the gas peddle. I'm really enjoying the ride. The only thing bugging me is this weird sound, almost like 2 washers hitting each other very quickly since installing the headers. Anytime I give it a little extra gas, I get this sound. I've checked to make sure all bolts are tight and connections to CATs to exhaust are good. I can not figure out where the sound is coming from or what is causing it. Happens when parked and while driving. I'm wondering if it may be a pulley or something.?. I did have a weird radiator leak recently where a pulley somehow rubbed on the radiator hose but I didn't have this sound before installing the headers. Might need to take it to a shop to help me figure it out at this point cause I don't know what is causing it.

 

stop!! your making me want to do it!

 

Oh you want to do it. The Dirty Deeds 12 holes injectors helped and now with the headers, very responsive to the pedal

 

Damn, I cant decide if I wanna do headers or do lower ball and tie rods.

Im confused what the bag of hardware is that come with the headers? Does it come with bolts to replace studs?

 

Lower Ball Joints and Tie rods lol. First things first bud

 

There not that bad. My truck has low miles but they still 18 years old.

 

Gotta do it.

And yes, they come with bolts to replace the nuts/studs. I think its better to leave the studs and use new nuts.

 

how hard are inner rods? Ive replaced outer rods before but never inner

 

Depends how stuck they are. Mine wouldn't come out so I left them. Unless the ball/socket part is so worn that its clacking I don't think there is a lot to worry about on them. If they aren't too stuck you just need the right tool and they should be pretty easy.

 

Isn't the rack and or the tire rods kind of a big weak point when u start hucking 'em and bashing them.

 

The rack for sure once you start running bigger tires and going off road with any speed. The outside tie rod ends don't have a lot of support by design. Thats why when you move to a long travel kit its smart to run a hiem with double shear.

 

So do headers first…

 

Inner Tie Rods weren't that hard for me. I used 20" vise grips to remove mine though...

 

I bought moog inner and outer tire rods but haven't installed them yet. Might as well do it all while I'm at it/ plus I have to replace the boots anyway.

 

This...

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/lisle-large-inner-tie-rod-tool-lis54500

 

I do but with long tubes. I already had DDI 12 holes

 

Sankei 555 from Napa appear to be the aisin "equivalent." There's a parts link at the bottom of this post for everything I used.

Has a grease zerk on the outer tie rods.

 

NTB told me I damaged my inners. But I been driving on em since my last trip to the off road park in mid August. Honestly I'm surprised I didn't break em cuz I was fucking sending it lol

 

Honestly I bought the DD injectors half on the carcaine addiction but I have ended up really loving them. For the price especially u seriously can't g wrong with them. Performance + improved mpg.

 

Agreed. It woke up my 06 from 200k-235k miles, so far I love em.

 

I found where the weird sound is coming from. My Y pipe rattles when I’m heavy on the pedal. Maybe it can’t handle the increase air flow cause it’s not loose.

Did a search and came across a JBA Y pipe that claims it increase performance.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JBA/578/2010SY-1/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi-i714zd8wIVV-TICh1UhQd-EAQYASABEgIBEPD_BwE

Seems a lot more capable than the stock Y pipe.

 

In case anyone has the same issue I'm having in the future... Had a nice long conversation with a wise man at Pertronix(maker of JBA products) and he pin pointed the sound to the area behind the Y pipe. He said sometimes when old exhausts are torqued too tight the inner wall cracks and a metallic rattle sound can occur. Old school fix would be to drill a hole in the outer pipe and weld the 2 layers together. I just went ahead and ordered their Y pipe. Maybe I'll get a little more umphh yet.

 

I have that y pipe, couldn't tell if there is any gain but when you compare that and the stock pipe side by side its hard to imagine the stocker not being restrictive.

I had to loosen my driver side cat pipe to wiggle it a bit and get a better fitment. Something to keep in mind while installing yours.