General Supercharger Thread.

if you decrease the pully diam from 85mm, you will need bigger/better injectors.

 

I just installed DW 650s. I have a Volant cai that I ran stock and just bought a new filter for right before I decided to go supercharged. I put it up for sale but no luck selling it. It has better air flow than stock cai but it’s too long with supercharger installed. I’m thinking about cutting the end off of it and see what afr numbers it gives me for the time being. Stock cai with drop in filter is working but it limits how much you can turn it up. Tuner said I’m right at + or - 600 engine bhp right now. I would like to put it on a dyno and see the numbers to the back tires. Anyone dynoed theirs yet?

 

If you haven't done a fuel pump you'll probably want to do that too. I recently went from an Aeromotive 325 to a Walbro 450 per VictorG's recommendation. As for the Volant you could cut it down, my truck came with an Air Raid and I had to cut it down to fit on the supercharger. Since then I bought a Magnuson airbox (Magnuson supercharger in my case). Point being that cutting it down should work fine. You'll have to tune the MAF depending on how the ecu reacts to the diameter change where it's placed though.

 

Upgraded fuel pump came with the Harrop kit. Yeah I spent over a hundred dollars for the replacement filter for the Volant. So it would be nice to use it. Some people knock the Volant. I had better throttle response and mpgs.

 

So your tuner thinks you’re at about 600 crank hp with the 85mm and some custom tuning? How did he do the tuning if he hasnt had it in the dyno, was it just a street tune? I’m just curious cause I’m thinking I’d be happy at 600 crank hp, so if I can get there on the 85mm, bigger injectors and a tune then I’d maybe just do that rather than running the 80mm.

 

I'm at an untuned ~435whp (6.2psi)...which is a 120hp gain. so...~500 crank hp..or thereabouts.

I am inquisitive as to what changes can be made to get another ~170whp from the same 85mm pulley.

I'm not doubting....just eager to learn.

 

Going by DAPs testing with the Harrop, which took place on a 105 degree day on their dyno that has been referred to as a “heartbreaker” for its low numbers I would think you would need the 80mm, and of course injectors to be at 600 crank. If you figure a 20% drivetrain loss than their measured 477whp would put it at about 600 crank.

 

my eyeball goes straight to the 75mm pulley.

 

It’s not in concrete just an estimate. I guess by data logs??? That’s why I would like to put it on a dyno! Plus according to my afr/boost gauge I’m in the high 6psi on the 85 mm pulley! Now I’m not saying it is 100 % accurate but I hope it is close for what paid for it. I’ve seen over 6.5 psi.

 

Yeah get it on that dyno so the rest of us know how much money to spend! I should have my truck back with stage 1 installed over this weekend so I’ll get my AFR numbers posted up then. I have a boost gauge too but have to get a couple fittings to hook it up once I have the truck back.

 

"Eyes up here buddy!"

 

I’m learning about all of this just like y’all. I don’t want to tell lies cause I’m not that kind of person. I’m hoping for the best but I’m sure dyno might hurt my feelings! I ve contacted two places here near Atlanta and they won’t even call back??? I did ask if they would fine tune it for me. Not a lot of people tune Tundras from what I’m seeing!

 

From what I read a lot of people say DAP doesn’t do remote tuning for supercharged trucks, but on his website it looks like he does. There is a remote tuning package for 07-18 trucks using HPtuners, it just costs twice as much as the N/A remote tune. That could be an option. I guess he would have to send a baseline safe tune to get some data logs if we would swap out the injectors and pulley and then build on that, but not sure. I’d like to know more about that option.

 

Dap is a good tuner from what I ve heard. I just heard about another option to fix maf limits besides spending 650 dollars on a cai!

 

What is an "Air Straightener" you ask?:
https://youtu.be/kOVfsoiNOvw

 

Not to change the subject, but I'll change the subject within reason. See post #195, I'm that guy. Harrop Stage 1.
I had my engine compression tested today. All cylinders between 180 psi and 210 psi. No red flags pointing to piston rings or other issues.
The mechanic noted all spark plug tubes filled with oil and surmised that this was from the initial issues I had when towing my boat under boost for extended uphill hauls - post #195. I did change the pcv valve after I got home from that short lived excursion. The mechanic recommends a catch can, specifically the Radium 20-0240 dual can. Look it up. Not cheap but the manufacturers description on their 20-0240 for our Tundras seems to address the problem for future. Two cans....one on the pcv valve. I ordered it and will have it installed mid October. Truck has been running fine since the pcv valve was replaced, still getting crankcase pressure when I pull the stick but I hope to eliminate this kind of fouling when I'm towing next time around.

Good news is I'm not in for an engine tear down and I can keep my supercharger. Can't wait to tell my wife how happy I am and that her monthly checking balance just got shaved a few bucks in the short term. Cheers.

 

Don't get the dual kit. I have the dual and the crankcase can has been completely dry since installed (about 16k miles ago). The pcv does do a nice job. The kit is very good quality, but if I did it again I'd just do the pcv only.

 

Thanks for that. I've read that summary in some other places too......crankcase can overkill.

 

I read that too, but found the dual kit for $350.83 on Amazon so figured it wasn't too much more than the single and went for it. I guess I'd rather be over than under protected though.

 

Two cans makes you look like a serious bad ass to the average American. Like Bilstein 5160s on the rear when a set of 5100s will do just fine.

 

Cool factor lol

 

Liking that radiator and the twin ARB.

 

I originally asked DAP about tuning mine two years ago and he wouldn't do it remote, despite what his website says.

Is your issue with the maf or you're trying to increase airflow? If your throwing maf codes that can be fixed with your tune. Mine threw those codes when I had the air raid setup, but I wasn't able to adjust it due to the tuner I was using. You're better off getting your tune corrected than throwing random intakes at it hoping that one has the correct ID for the MAF. Honestly the Magnuson intake which has a calibrated intake tube for their blower would probably be your best bet besides a tune tweak.

 

like Caltrac traction bars.....painted red to match the sway bar.

oh, nevermind.

 

Snivilous said... Is your issue with the maf or you're trying to increase airflow? If your throwing maf codes that can be fixed with your tune. Mine threw those codes when I had the air raid setup, but I wasn't able to adjust it due to the tuner I was using. You're better off getting your tune corrected than throwing random intakes at it hoping that one has the correct ID for the MAF. Honestly the Magnuson intake which has a calibrated intake tube for their blower would probably be your best bet besides a tune tweak. end quote

I agree. don't put multiple variables into the equation. it complicates the tuning exponentially.

 

Is it common for the SC to prematurely damage the transmission? I have met two people in person that have regretted their SC on the account that their trans blew early. One was at 40k and one currently has 160k (mostly supercharged) that is currently on his third trans. These are TRD/Magnusson superchargers by the way. Not sure what kind of mileage you Harrop gentlemen are at.

 

If it was common, I would not have gotten the Harrop. in all my queries, i did not come across transmission issues.

shit happens.

I intend to drain & fill every 30k. for whatever reason.

 

Tuner said my maf is pulling 510 g/sec and is almost at its limit. I have no lights or codes. He said maf housing needs to be bigger to turn it up more.

 

this jives with Harrop.

quote>>
In regards to fuelling the 3UR-FE are MAF (Mass Air Flow) based, so boost pressure is not a factor for the ECU. The limiting factors are MAF flow and any ECU limits relating to flow. The stock mapping extends to load of 110%. Observed peak load supercharged is 140%, therefore it is important to know what is going to happen when you go “off the map”.

The additional airflow proved to be of no concern to the ECU, peak airflow of 450 g/s was measured with the supercharged unit.

Testing at higher boost did reveal limits, both an ECU 512 g/s calculation limit and the MAF voltage ceiling. In addition, at higher flow levels the standard injectors do not have sufficient flow.

So maximum airflow was set at 450 g/s by selecting the Ø85 Supercharger pulley. To provide a further factor of safety, the Harrop Supercharger kit includes a high-volume Fuel Pump and Fuel pressure Regulator modification. Highe

 

Ah, so you need a larger cross section where the MAF sits. You could potentially modify your intake yourself to achieve this too. Larger cross section = less velocity for same net flow rate, so the MAF will read lower down in it's range at the same airflow and give you more tuning ability at the higher airflow areas. If you can measure your intake ID at the MAF I'll measure my air raid and Magnusson and that'll give you multiple data points to know where you are.