What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Ordered the fog light blank pods for the Baja Designs Squadron SAEs I bought. Should make for a cleaner install. Thanks guys.

 

Smart idea. You could use that to hang a light and illuminate a whole area. On my Inno, I got two of these bars that come out from the inside of the roof bars. I've thought about hanging a shower bag from them, but it'll probably be too much weight at full extension.

They've proven to be very handy for drying clothes and hanging stuff like sunglasses and hats. I hung a light from them over the weekend and cooked underneath it.

 

Definitely made me feel better, my pile of uninstalled stuff is only about 1/3 - 1/2 that size

 

Still boxed…

 

Test fitting the squadron SAEs. They are such nice lights. Hopefully fog light blanks should be here next week and I'll be able to get those bolted on. Looks like I should be able to get a longer bolt and drill a hole in the back of the fog light blank to mount the stud. Then I'll route the wire through another hole as several others have suggested. I like the idea of reinforcing the bolt mount from the back with some aluminum flat bar, but not sure that is required. Will experiment.

 

Maybe I have it wrong, my Durobumps are on the back hanger. 2005.

 

Good luck @Openbaffle .
You'll need some way to keep the light in place so it doesn't move around and pop out. I had that happen on a trail and luckily the connectors are stout. That's why in the pics above I settled on using the bracket that came with the lights and just cut the blanks so that the light fit flush against it and fit in the slot in the bumper. The bracket is fastened to the light for adjustment and the bolt went through the hole in the bumper to hold it in place.

 

@alb1k your probably good, duro bump makes front and rears for us. I just haven’t touched my rear suspension yet. Still ordering parts for it https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/00-06-toyota-tundra-rear-bump-stops

 

Actually, I mean the rear stop on the lower control arm, I think yours is front, mine is rear. If I remember, the rear engages first, but I might have that all screwed up.

 

We have two sets of bumpstops per side on the front and most people only buy one set. Did you buy only one set?

 

I have two sets, had them all on for a while, then pulled the fronts and left the rears. The front OEM was a tad smaller than the Rear OEM, so I left the two rears. Clear as mud?

 

we’ll I feel like a dumbass lol…. Ya I only bought one set

 

I don't think you are a dumbass, I'm running one set and own two . I still don't know which one of us is running one set correctly, or if there is a correct answer. Congrats on the set-up!

 

Appreciate it

how I missed I have 2 sets idk, So now my question is do I throw another set of durobumps in? Leave the stockers? Opinions?

 

insert popcorn eater emoji

 

Anybody else pull their rear load proportion valve deal off the axle and safety wire it to the bed? I did that when I did my shocks. The brakes feel better.

 

How's the cutoff?

 

Not on Tundra yet but on Taco I cut my rod and its ran through an adjustable mount, made a huge difference being able to change that when you start messing with the rear suspension especially.

Bad shot and shit is neglected but you get point. Credit to BeefedTaco down in SD for figuring this out years ago.

 

Put together my 2nd diff finally. I've had the shims for the powertrax grip pro (torsen) LSD for a couple weeks now. Also did a solid pinion spacer and new OEM pinion seal.



Drive side pattern:


Coast side pattern:

 

Is that.... the archive relocation kit?

 

Looks a bit deep on the coast. Drive side looks better balanced. Good move grabbing a solid collar.


@Cummins3500 and @alb1k I don't think there is a wrong way. Wheelers recommends the rear spot, I went front spot, haven't had any problem. From how early they (the Wheelers bumps) engage I don't think I would want to run two sets on the front end. Might get bucky and lose the effects of the shocks.

 

Thanks @Darkness!

 

Coast usually shows up looking like the backlash is too tight. This is due to the helical style cut of the gear teeth. It's mostly useful for double checking pinion depth.

This is the gear set that came in this 3rd member so the pinion depth was correct. I just had to re-shim to set backlash with the LSD replacing the open.

 

@Darkness that is a crazy good observation…

 

I still run my lspv. I adjusted it with the factory tool though. the ass end would locked up under moderate braking. Likely a regular cab only problem

 

What is the factory tool?

 

It’s a gauge to set brake pressure. You can’t buy them. They’re a Toyota specific thing. I use it when I swap frames..

 

https://toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?itemVID=131984

Actually you may be able to buy them. If you want to drop 800+

 

No thanks, but maybe in the future. My $7 pocket scale works fine like I used when I adjusted my LSPV on the V6.