Crackhead resurrection

I was just about to say this. I think they switched to iridium when VVTI was added in 05. My 02 has basic copper plugs.

Noah, I agree with everyone else.

• Plugs and inspect the coils
• All other fluids
• How do the brakes look?
• How's the air filter?
• PCV Valve?

 

As in the plastic fan blades showed damage ?
Find it hard to believe your 00 is different from an 04 but I am at least 3 inches from plastic fan blades to rad fins !

 

Nooooo..... I've been reading through all 30 pages the last two days in my free time and the truck hasn't even been started again. Awesome work @Tundra2 and @TundraGirl2 really neat seeing this truck getting ready for another 300k. The hard work will pay off soon enough.

 

Never underestimate the power of a KY Crackhead.

 

Bad motor mounts can cause radiator strikes

 

DOH! There's another thing for Noah to check

 

He should swap in a v6 motor to create more clearance

Good work so far on this. I'll be waiting for the black paint.

 

Oil cooler and wire connectors are in the mail!

 

I agree that these need to be replaced/checked but I'm going to pass until after the new frame. I don't want to be caught with my pants down...

Plugs are doable. Coils are probably fubar. Brakes are unknown. Air filter looked clean through the intake hose hole. PCV valve has never been replaced.

There was that much room before I pulled the radiator...

I did find a loose motor mount bolt on the drivers side on the block. Guess I'll order all pieces of the motor mounts, and such... think it will be okay to wait until the frame job to have toyota replace them for me?

 

3rz with compound turbos. Brought to you by sirfive’s swap of the day.

 

PCV valve is cheap enough and may want to pop new one in before turning it over.

And yeah, let Toyota handle that for you. You'll be fine.

 

Looks like the old was original and the new denso is not larger than the 1.25" listed. Good to know.

 

Larger than 1.25"?

 

They both look 1.25" to me. I think it's an optical illusion, the old looks smaller edge-to-edge in the pics if you look at the metric side of the tape.

 

Whoops. Meant to type 'not larger'. Editedy above post.

Glad I got the Koyo which matched my OEM.

 

I know you mentioned it before, but how thick is the koyo?

 

EDIT: See the 'Note' field to see which is for DC, which is for AC/RC.

 

Confirmed.

 

Yes

 

They were both the same in my eyes. 1.25"

Optical illusion from the angle of the picture or the tape. I had to really flex the tape to get rid of the glare from the lighting. Of course, the glare was right over my measurement...

 

If I inspect the cooling system in say a month or two, and see that the radiator is full of little pieces of shit, I'll buy a koyo or aluminum, if I feel confident, that I got all the shit out.

Now, let me ask a question for the group.
Can I run the engine without the t-stat just to do flushes? Good idea? Bad idea?

 

Yes you can

 

If you're going to be putting not-boiling water into it, yes. Think about it. Main function of the t-stat is to open and close in order to keep the engine temp in a known/given range. As long as you're not introducing a condition wherein the engine would be at risk of overheat, you should be fine as far as not damaging things goes.

 

Plus the system is pressurized so it raises your boiling point.


With the VC and IM gaskets, I bet you could have that done in 4-6 hours with the way you work. Just don't fuck it up like I did. You could probably do your starter contacts since you're right there.

 

One thing at a time. Future plans. I need to get back on toyota owners. Pretty sure it came with the cold weather package, but if it didn't I could upgrade.

 

No sir. You tear that thing so far apart only mr lord can put it back together.

 

Found this last night. I have a feeling that when I turn it over for the first time, it's gonna go something like this..
https://youtu.be/YnjL2eRJO2I

 

You can cut the two sides of the 'arch' and remove the center of your old thermostat. This will let you use the outer ring and rubber gasket still.

Fully removing a thermostat can allow flow speeds through the radiator to be fast enough that it won't have a chance to transfer heat away. Leading to overheating. This is why the FSM says not to remove it, if having an overheating issue.

 

I'll bring the old one with me to work and cut it with a pencil grinder. I don't have a way to be precise at the house.

No vise. No table. Just two saw horses and a sheet of 3/4" plywood