Crackhead resurrection

So this?


Why does it matter, and could the other one have been installed incorrectly?

 

It's to help bleed the air out of the system. Not all thermostats even have them.

 

Thanks Nick

I'll have to look in my scrap pile when I get home, but I'm not sure if the moto-rad thermostat I pulled out had one.

 

Sounds like you're thinking of CRS (Can't Remember Sh$t).

 

My 170° motorad had one but it was on the inside area closer to the seal/center. It was under/inline and tucked up that arched piece.

I drilled a 1/16" hole on the outside like where the valve is on the OEM.

 

There's probably another reason why it never made it to closed loop. Bad O2 sensor, for example. Since air heats up faster than liquid if the poorly aligned thermostat was preventing air from escaping then this condition would actually enable it to leave closed loop faster rather than slower or not at all. So, if the motor isn't leaving closed loop then there is another cause.

 

No, it never made it to closed loop. Was always in Open loop. I'm not even sure if it has proper oxygen sensors.

 

just to make sure, the little plate that goes on the crank before the pulley, you put that back in right?

 

Yes. Sure did. Has the key hole in it to keep timing accurate.

 

and you have it facing the right way? its tapered

 

It's supposed to be flared outwards towards the pulley or it won't read on the crank sensor.

Yes?

 

yup, your good. just wanted to make sure.. i've seen the backwards and it'll eat a belt quick

 

Good deal. I paint dotted it with light blue dot when I took it off so I'd know which way it was on install. Thanks for checking in. Any thoughts on the open loop issues, or just wait, and see if new rad with a proper flush will mend it?

 

OK, so it was always in open loop? I would strongly recommend getting the cooling system up to spec then getting the O2 sensors up to spec then seeing how it runs and then see if there are any running issues. You're doing a great job.

 

Thank You L! Yes, it was always in open loop. See the below quote.

Quote is from 8/24/2021.

I suppose that it could be the temp sensor also, but how likely is that? Is that something else that I should replace while "I'm in there?" I'd really rather not wait for another part, and I'm about to leave work. If someone could pull up testing info on the FSM found below. That would help me out tremendously. I'm not against removing it, and seeing if it's super gnarly. Just don't want to wait for another part on my weekend off...

 

Once you get it running again pull up temps with OBD reader and see if its reading anything. I'm not sure on the tundras but on my Camry and my Tacoma there is one sensor for the gauge and one sensor for the ECU that are completely separate.

 

Just read in the FSM to put soapy water on the new O-rings before installing the WP and water inlet.

I didn't do that. Should I tear it all down again just for that? Please say no lol

 

I didn't do the soapy water. Mine's still all good after 50k miles. Imagine the soapy water helps keep the rubber O ring from improperly seating itself.

 

Here’s some photos from today for y’all

 

Looks like a very knowledgeable dog...

 

Tex is very dumb but lovable.

 

Not sure if the coolant temp sensor only serves one purpose on your MY or not. Will have to check FSM or maybe someone knows offhand.

Soapy water is to seat o-rings and minimize possibility of them getting pinched and damaged when parts are installed. If you believe you did a careful job, roll the dice and proceed. If you have any doubts, remove them now and check would be my advice.

 

So he's like Noah?

 

Yes, exactly

 

I'm rolling the dice. I feel like everything is well.


Pulled the alternator, and was happy to discover a Toyota alternator.


Pulled the rear cover, and replaced the brush. Glad I did. Down to the dot.


Got the #2 timing belt cover on, water inlet with new O-ring/FIPG, power steering pump, alternator, and the RH TB cover.


Cleaned out a bunch of rubber bits from the grooves of the PS Vane, and the alternator pulley. Brushed the grooves out with stainless steel brush. Really need a damn air gun.

Had to brush a lot of the bolts for thread dirt. Treated with small amounts of anti-sieze. Lowered torques by 25% which I think is status quo for using anti-sieze?

 

Good call on checking the brushes now. Be a good idea to saturate the windings in the alt with some CRC electronics cleaner or the equivalent and get some of the old dirt and debris flushed-out as well as possible. Clean windings allow heat to dissipate quicker. Ergo, cooler running alt/longer-lasting alt.

 

I was really tired when I got home from work this morning but if I read the 00-03 FSM correctly the coolant temp sensor on the 2UZ Tundras (unsure of the 5's) has a thermistor built-in that sends a signal to the ECU in regards to closed-loop, so I would agree that pulling codes when possible would be a good idea to see if any are there.

 

I remember my short stint as a parts washer at a motor (electric) rebuild shop. It was interesting to see all the explosion proof motors come in from the mines, and cathartic to be the guy using the pressure washer.

I learned a lot from that job. Taught me to spray paint professionally. Mineral spirits wash. Varnish dip. Baking the varnish. Tapping the mounting bolt holes, amd reassembling. Pretty neat.

So, back to the CRC cleaner. Wallace wurl shows they have this in stock. Is this cleaning process thing something I should with with the alternator off the truck?

 

Not necessarily, you can do it while it's mounted.

 

Okay, admittedly I need help. I have an extra bolt, and nut. Both are 12mm head. Currently, everything is installed except for the AC compressor, and the radiator.






I'm not sure what I missed...