Crackhead resurrection

You have the belt backward. Arrow faces out

 

@BubbaW Felt great after work. Decided to flip the belt over as I'm undisturbed, and focused.




Hydraulic Tensioner is not on yet. Curious why the drivers side seems off. Hope I didn't mess up the timing yesterday.

Any advice or thoughts?

 

Decided to reset, and try again this time paying more attention.




The Right cam (pass side) sprung forward a hair while I tried to slip the belt on. Stopped, and moved back. Sprung forward to pictured position when I got the belt on.

All look OK?

 

Nice work Noah. It wouldn't be a proper Crackhead resurrection without an occasional mishap. I know you'll get it sorted out. I'm most excited for the coolant flush. I think it will be cathartic.

 

On the crankshaft, I’m not seeing the mark on the housing. I see it on the belt and gear where you marked it. If you like the alignment, set the tensioner and rotate a few times and check the pulley alignment again. All 3 should be dead solid perfect. The belt marks won’t line up though.

 

Thanks for positive feedback. I'm not sure what the mark on the crank housing. I don't seem to have any better pictures than this one below.

 

Looks good to me. If you have any doubts consult the FSM. You can always pull the plugs and check for BTDC on each piston by using a metal coat hanger with tape wrapped on the end so as to not scratch a piston crown. Turning the motor by hand should be relatively easy since there will be no compression.

 

The plan for today when I get home is to put the crank sensor plate back on, timing belt cover around the crank, and the harmonic balancer, and then turn the engine by hand.

Now, at this point, the marks on the belt are irrelevant. The only marks that are if any consequence are the timing marks on the HB and cams. Yes?

 

Yep. The belt marks go out of alignment once it's turned over.

This isn't due to the cams/crank going out of alignment but the fact belts are designed a bit longer so they don't ride on the same pattern every revolution. This is for even wear. Just like tire rotation.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the positive confirmation of my understanding.

Now obviously I won't be putting any He-man strength when I'm turning the engine, but if it's out of time, presumably I'd hit the top of the piston, and feel resistance accordingly.

Gently turning by hand is low risk for engine damage. Yes?

 

Probably would be best to pull the plugs during hand rotation for the least resistance possible.

 

I went nice, and slow to allow all the air to move as necessary in the engine. Two full turns back to timing marks.




How in the fuck am I supposed to torque the crank pulley bolt? Hit it with the mamba? I'd rather torque it correctly.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRm7BViRsoQ

 

Damn. That's redneckistan approved. See if I can fab something up tonight at work. I'll take the old HB with me for accurate measurements.

 

Made plenty of headway so far.


Decided to cool down the work ethic by removing the studs from my fan clutch from the shitey Chinese fan bracket that was on the truck.

Two M8x1.25 jamb nuts, and two 13mm wrenches made quick work of it.




Cleaned up the mating surface of the fan clutch. Spick und span!




Gave the mating surface a light coating of anti-sieze because I'm not ready to install it yet, it's bare metal now, and being stored outside where it's humid. This will mostly be wiped off before install.

 

Hit it with the mamba full force!! Believe the spec is 300ft# of force. That's 7.5 ugga duggas on max setting with max psi for the pneumatic impact. You'll have to do the conversion for electric.

 

Spec is 181 Ftlbs. I gave it a 2 second burst on speed two to keep moving along. I'll see what I can scrounge up tonight at work.

 

Definitely yallQaeda, surprised my family hasn't tried to patent that yet. Actually, I'd be shocked if a mass-produced cheap steel tool doesn't exist for this at Harbor Freight or Northern Tool, something like a t-square, with the T-end being slotted so you can adjust the width on bolt pattern. It could be used in situations like this where you need opposing force.

There are other times in mechanics land where this is needed. If a belt isn't sitting on it, you can use a leather strap to prevent spinning. In the bicycle world, chain whips are used to pull freewheels apart, or remove cassettes. But then again, how often does one change HB? Maybe that's why it hasn't come up in conversation yet this year.

 

You are home free now! Good work!

 

Only 181ft#? been a minute since I did mine. Swore it needed more ugga duggas. If it's only 181, then it's 3.5 ugga duggas, your conversion for electric seems accurate.

 

Lookin' good @Tundra2! Nice work.

 

If you decide to not make your own, check out the second to last pic in Jim's thread.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-...epair-modify-thread.71679/page-5#post-1937267

 

Thanks for linking this in, and thanks to @N84434 for posting excellent pictures. Just placed an order through big gurllll for free through rewards points.

$21 E-cowlboy for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts

Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts

 

When I get home from work tomorrow around 6:00 AM CST, I hope to start back tracking on all the bolts, and installing things using the 1A-Auto videos since its been a week since I took everything apart. Should be able to narrow down bolt homes using their video. Luckily, I kept everything on a Left side of engine on the left, and Right side of engine on the right. So at least there's that. Will be mighty fun doing some reverse engineering.

Kinda bummed I'm spinning my wheels tonight at work as there is literally nothing of any importance to do except to sweep, and do 5S.

 

5S - I dealt with that years ago when I did carbon fiber repair work... Sort, Shine, can't remember the rest....

 

you got yours way cheaper than what mine was. I think I paid 55 bucks? Can't remember...

You'll love that tool.

 

Thinking on future install. What exactly does the jiggle valve look like?


Using the below generic image as a guide...


The outlined metal piece was up and down (vertical) versus side to side (horizontal) when I pulled the other one out. Is that why the fuel system never made it to closed loop?

 

Jiggle valve is that little loose rivet on the outside of thermostat.



Also any Denso radiator core measurement yet?