Potentially snapped Timing Belt

When the 4.9l I-6 went out in my old Ford, me and my cousin found a yard with one from a Ford tech school or something, but we opened up the bottom end and he said it had under 100 hours, no wear at all. Buttoned it all back up, threw a holly 4 barrel truck avenger carb and headers with 3” exhaust. Kinda like these V8s; not screamers but they are still fun!

 

Yeah, a lot of lessons learned(ing) here. Not the greatest way to go about it on my end but they kept telling me I was good to go.

I can’t find the VIN/ID on the engine. I imagine it’s on the block but I’m not seeing anything.

 

The shop and sellers almost certainly recorded the VIN, if for no other reason any warranty issues and their own records. The seller must know the VIN from the vehicle?

 

Yeah, I’m finding it out tomorrow from the previous shop owner. The shop changed ownership while my truck was being fixed. Don’t love that

 

Thats a streak of bad luck but if its running well now be happy and take good care of it.

 

Looking forward to the (hopefully good news) update...

 

Hey guys, sorry for the major delay here on an update. Truck runs great. Engine sounds like a beast.

Of course, that's only half the story. Truck wouldn't start about two weeks ago but started right up once I got a new battery in there (it was time). I went out of town for ~10 days and came back yesterday to find it still doesn't start. I'm thinking it's either a bad starter or alternator. Any ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

To me, it sounds like something is draining your battery. Do you have any aftermarket parts that would drain the battery? Doesn't seem like a starter issue to me.

 

Hmm there is a towing brake control adjuster in the truck that I've never used. Can't think of anything else

 

Some good info in here about parasitic draw tests and my experience with a no start after letting it sit for a few days
https://www.tundras.com/threads/mysterious-battery-drain.89893/

 

Thanks for the help - I'm going to try knocking on the starter and see if it starts up.

 

If you are going to do all the work to gain access it to tap on it, you might as well replace it lol. If you aren't aren't aware, they are located under the intake manifold.

 

AAA guy just came and helped me out - he couldn't get to the starter (finding out now how oddly hidden it is) but was 99.9% sure it's a bad starter. I'm gonna try and knock this one out myself

 

Looks like Oreilly's has starters for $99. He said a brand new one would cost $222 and that he always recommends just getting the re-manufactured ones because it has OEM parts that will never go bad. Thoughts?

 

If the starter is where I think it is, I would go with the OEM for more money.

 

Denso Cold weather starter is the go-to choice. It's a heavy duty version of the regular starter.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/which-starter-should-i-use.73759/

 

I'd also go with the cold weather spec starter.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-starter-motor-281005010184

 

With how difficult it is to get the starter, get OEM. Don't dick around with aftermarket or reman non-OEM. You don't want to need to go in there again if it fails.

Highly recommend testing voltage at alternator and at battery with nothing draining. I hate this guy, but he gives good advice on batteries and how to test for parasitic draw. And almost forgot - if you have an aftermarket OBDII diagnostic thingy installed, take it out. They're known to cause all kinds of issues if left in all the time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC--MLNIbik

 

If it was me, I'd bring it back to the shop that did the work and let them replace it for you on their dime. You certainly paid enough for the work done. They should stand behind it, especially since they replace the starter.

If they refuse I would ask for the receipt of the OEM part they used to replace it so you can bring it the dealer yourself for a replacement.

I have a feeling if they did replace the starter, they probably used a cheapo one that was likely inferior to the one that would have come with it.

 

It's really not that bad; don't let these guys scare you. You can get the intake off in 2 hours working slowly. I've had mine off enough I'm pretty sure I could get it in 45 minutes.

 

I'll be honest,,, this looks like something I do not have the tools for. The AAA guy said it's definitely not the alternator (makes sense upon further listening). And I'm going to replace the battery since it's under warranty

 

Yup! I feel confident in doing this job.

Now it's just a matter of whether or not the shop that replaced the engine will do it for me all for free parts included

 

Yeah, sounds like I owe them a call. But when I talked to them before, it doesn't sound like they replaced the starter(?) It wasn't mentioned

 

It's just basic hand tools to get to it. Couple extensions, and a torque wrench. An intake gasket for good measure.

 

I wouldn't listen to the AAA guy. Take your time a properly test the battery and the alternator, and make sure that you check the alternators voltage throughout the RPM range. For the battery, there are plenty of places that can load test it for you; replace it if questionable.

 

I meant that I don't have the tools to test voltage/etc. Switching out the starter I feel confident about.

 

AAA guy tested the battery and it came back as a poor battery. Whether or not it is, it's under warranty so I may as well replace it.

As for testing the alternator, what is required to do that? Is it something AAA would do?
Thank you

 

Ohhhh. Gotcha. Yeah, if you go the starter route you can always ask us for help. And post pics. We like pics. Like, a lot.

 

That'd be autozone, O'Reillys, etc.

 

Okay, good deal. Only issue there is I can't move the truck haha