AZ BS

I've got the stage 8 already. I'd be interested in adding a second 2.5 on all 4 corners if I see a big upgrade in ride quality.

 

there is no short answer there. Adding more doesn't necessarily equate to a better ride, just increases the available resources to distribute the energy to, which would be able dissipate much more energy over time. With all things being equal this equates to endurance. However, things get more interesting when you add differing types dampers, in this case the secondary shock is a multi-zone with adjustable external bypasses, This would allow the shock's valving to change dependent on piston's position within the bore shock body in relation to the bypass ports.

Now be mindful that more advanced shocks have both compression and rebound adjustments per-zone and really open the opportunities to dial in whatever ride you want/need, within the constraints of the main piston's valve stack. Just bolting on extra shocks unless explicitly designed to be paired with each other typically results in unsatisfactory suspension performance.

Bigger, heavier, faster moving loads = higher energy that needs to controlled, mitigated with more piston surface area to handle the generated forces along with more fluid to help dissipate the heat generated by the piston moving through the fluid. If the system is undersized the fluid loses viscosity and shock performance degrades (shock fade), thus the system loses its means to control the unsprung mass of the vehicle.

The law of conservation of energy states that energy can neither be created nor destroyed - only converted from one form of energy to another. In this case, the mechanical energy is converted to thermal energy...

-JS

 

Sounds like multi shock corners are not in my future.

 

It wasn’t exactly easy since we were the first dumbasses to try it, but now it’s readily repeatable.

the coilover is a 3.0 (3” diameter shock body) with compression adjustment and an internal 2” bump stop.

• Controls body roll and pitch during daily driving (slow speed events [shaft speed, not vehicle speed])
• Compression is set soft for a Caddy level of comfort on street
• When we go off road on moderate trails I’ll turn compression up to maybe 5/10 to allow some compliance through choppy stuff but resist some of the more aggressive bumps and washouts
• Turn it to 10/10 for jumps and whoop sections or anytime we’re truly high speed in unfamiliar territory with possible hidden g outs

2.5 bypass (2.5” diameter shock body) has three distinct zones of adjustment - bump, ride, droop.

• At full bump the tire is all the way up in the wheel well, and the shock piston is all the way inside the bump zone. When the piston enters that zone, the shock fluid no longer ‘bypasses’ the piston, and the valves on the piston are in full control of the compression damping. (This zone comes into play slightly before the bump zone inside the 3.0, creating smooth transitions from less damping to 100% damping ability).
• The ride zone is where the tire is at during most of your normal street and mild off road driving. In this area you (or at least I) want a smooth digressive shock curve. A digressive shock moves faster the harder you hit it, but more strongly resists low speed shaft movements (see note below on shaft speed). This means that in the ride zone, body roll and pitch (slow speed events) are controlled and predictable, while the small washboard and babyheads and ruts (high speed events) are allowed to push the tire out of the way and snap back quickly without transferring that shock to the frame/body. The small choppy stuff smooths out more at higher speeds. [progressive shocks do the opposite, the harder you hit them, the more they resist, and the more they transmit to the frame. Great for racing control, terrible for comfort.] This ride zone is controlled with the bypass tubes. The tubes have their own little valves that allow fluid to flow from one side of the piston to the other as it moves and “bypass” the piston valves which are firmer than the soft bypass valves. This allows the ride zone to be smoother on small fast inputs and more comfy.
• The droop zone is when the tire is all the way out of the wheel well and dangling by the suspension. Unless limited by a strap as is don’t for long travel, the shock is the limiting factor in how far the tire can droop. The shock length is set to stop the droop shortly before the upper control arm uniball reaches its angular limit and breaks. There is a shock zone in the bypass at the bottom to add more resistance to the drooping out so when you jump the truck or otherwise let the tire drop free and fast, there isn’t a loud and uncomfortable BANG when the end of the shock travel is reached. The damping force for this is controlled by the rebound damping valves on the piston after it passes the end of the bypass tube.

it all gets sort of complicated from there. Unfortunately the above is a pretty simplified version of what’s going on and leaves out a lot.

There’s also spindle gussets visible in the pic. Those are welded on to help prevent bending the stock spindle on bigger hits. Not visible are cam tab gussets that help keep the alignment cams from flattening the stock flimsy tabs.

This is what Tundras to Sedona is for. Hard to find a couple hundred Tundras in the dirt in one place at the same time any other way.

More importantly, when are we going wheeling?!? You sound like you know what you’re talking about. And apologies if we already know each other - I can barely remember my own name, let alone anyone else’s real name, Facebook alias, forum handle, IG account name and OnlyFans hidden name.

 

lol, I’m just a nerd with a whole lot of years around a number of motorsports with a wide variety of suspension requirements between them

We have not met before but it is definitely a pleasure to speak with you on here!

-JS

 

Ben reading info on this site and came across these videos explaining di vrs pro-gressive.
Thinking progressive is for me. No plans on front bypass shocks. Was considering them for the rear but probably not needed.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/digressive-vs-linear-vs-progressive-pistons-shock-valving/

 

set a goal, reach out to the fine folks at @AccuTune Offroad or Filthy Motorsports and see what they can do for you, both are extremely knowledgeable and great to work with.

I worked with Tyler and Alex at AccuTune to valve to a great compromise.

-JS

 

Anybody doing any fun runs this weekend?

 

It’s a little too warm this weekend for my liking so I think I’m gonna drink beer by the pool instead, lol. I do need to go run a couple more times before T2S though. Gotta break shit while it’s easy to fix afterwards.

 

Wish I could, but we’re heading up north to kayak the Colorado river this weekend.

 

I like how well Ryan describes everything, but I disagree with his assertion that washboard and small choppy stuff is low speed on the shock curve. I know he tuned digressive shocks for a long time and has a ton of actual experience, but I think he’s wrong on that one piece. And it’s a crucial piece to the comfort aspect.

As far as I’ve been able to figure, and have asked this of several other tuners who agree, washboard and small choppy stuff is actually a high speed shaft event. Exactly how Ryan described square edge events at the top of the curve. They are nearly instantaneous compression/rebound events of 3-6” tire travel, so roughly 1.5-3” of shock travel. The piston will move plenty to blow open the stack and enter the high speed portion of the valving.

This is the part where it gets complicated as I noted above, and as @BiggHertz noted is as much voodoo as it is science.

Long story short, if you’re looking to spend several thousand dollars, get a few rides first.

Once ours are all rebuilt and put back on, I’m happy to take you for a spin. I suggest finding someone with Kings, Fox or ADS to also compare. All the hypothesis in the world won’t make up for what your ass feels in the seat.

 

Well put! and @DuneShoot, @KevinK is right, nothing beats the feeling of seat time to help set your expectations, just be prepared to like some really expensive stuff, and know that even really expensive stuff can be made better or worse with simple spring swaps and/or valving.

But I can see it both ways, considering all of the* the external variables including frequency (distance between the peaks of a washboard, time in relation to speed of vehicle), amplitude (delta between peaks and valleys) and the vehicle dynamics itself (over sprung, under sprung, tire compliance, motion ratios and unsprung weight) etc. All external variables that, at least in my mind, could alter perception of shock piston speed relative to terrain in rebound and compression motions

And a Happy Friday to all!

-JS

 

What are we talking here, galvanized, brass, copper, schedule 40 or heavy wall?

 

Since I haven’t seen Tron post on here in a while, and a lot of us aren’t on Facebook, and many of us looked at his build for inspiration, I figured I’d post this here for awareness. He’s okay, but the truck is done. Sad times…

 

Oh man...that sucks. Glad he's okay. I had been following his build for quite some time.

 

Saw this earlier, sad day but I'm sure the new build will be better!

 

I talked to Accu tune about shocks. Going to try the Fox DSC ‘s. He recommended using OEM rear leafs with a longer shackle, for 1 inch lift.

What have you all done for rear leaves?

 

I'm running the Icon expansion pack that uses parts of the stock springs. They were used, so I'm getting about 1" of lift vs the advertised 1.5". They're also pretty squeaky, though mine only do that on the passenger side leaf pack.

I previously had 1" Maxtrac shackles that worked fine, they were beefier than the OEM ones, but not as nice as Toytec or Coachbuilder's offerings. Whatever you go with, swap the rear leaf bushings to poly, as that seemed to help a lot with the ride.

 

I've seen and witnessed so many mixed reviews about long term durability and N.V.H. of aftermarket leaf packs, expansions etc, with many just coming back to the OE pack with shackles or blocks. I myself am OEM leaf pack, with CB +2's and called it a day...for now =)

-JS

 

I think because it's a controlled substance it's paraphernalia if you are not legally allowed to use the substance and its not any sort of charge if your are of legal age.

As far as open container that applies to alcohol because a beer can or bottle only serves one purpose, to hold beer. A pipe can be used for tobacco and as such can't be a container only for weed. If they suspect your under the influence they will just give you a field sobriety test and if you fail it doesn't matter what your on your ticket will say you are impaired. You could be impaired from lack of sleep or too much caffeine or heavy drugs and the ticket is all the same. I've never been in that situation but I use to have a heavy foot and have been to A LOT of traffic school.

 

We’ve been running OEM leafs, 1” block and 3/4” shackle for 4 years or so. Used the Icon Omega bypass to control the movement.

3 days ago I switched to the Icon RXT leafs. Will switch to the extended travel RXT shocks at some point and gain the 20% travel. All our icons are being rebuilt at the moment so we have stock shocks in the rear now and it’s smooth as butter. Controlled, not so much.

 

RIP Norm

https://www.rollingstone.com/tv/tv-...-saturday-night-live-star-dead-at-61-1226344/

 

It's a sad day.

 

FYI, cat protection plates are in stock at Bedliner Veterans in Mesa. Semper Fi Armor is their body/truck armor brand. Pretty cool stuff. Hoping to get this thing installed and do a write up soon.

 

Price?

 

$325 for the initial run. Not sure if they’re going to hike it going forward. I think they built 35 plates or so in this first run.

 

Hey bud, after looking into this, I am unsure if my bullydog gt will be able to reset it. I can change features in the Toyota programming and reset codes but I couldn't find any info on the airbag module. If you find out it will work I'd be more then happy to do it for you.