Crackhead resurrection

I got one of those fancy pullers, and while I was threading it up the pulley just came off in my hand

 

I'm hoping that's BBQ and sauce.

 

Poor boy got poor ways.


@N84434 I grabbed the cam, and spun it back. Feels like it wants to spring back where I moved it from. Normal? Below is a shot of the new position.


All look well?

 

Definitely had more fight on this one then I care to admit, but we are getting it done! Slow, and steady. One piece at a time.

This is not something I want to rush. I'm taking lots of breaks, and giving myself plenty of time to think on each section. Lol

 

So after Watchung this video it seems to me that I can spin the cam either way without damaging anything vital? As long as everything lines back up once the hyd tensioner is on with belt all is kosher?

 

Yeah that's normal. That's the toughest part about doing the TB. You have to make sure the cam gears stay in the same position until the tensioner is released...

Good job so far

 

Good deal. Thank you for chiming in with helpful info, and positive reinforcement.

Took another look at camshaft crank position sensor wires. Discovered an actual mangle.
Order, and replace? I'm totally fine to wait now that the WP is on, and torqued.



Denso make this or OEM only?

 

I did the TB on my LS430 a few years ago and it had that same growth ooozing out of the passage. Evaporated coolant.

 

I would go Denso. Best time to swap that sensor out is now. It'll put you behind waiting for the cam position sensor, but it'll be done right.

 

Okay, I will peruse denso website shortly. Thank you again.

New WP, idler bearing, and tensioner bearing on! Slow March.

 

DO NOT make a full rotation. Just turn it back to the spot it should be.

 

Good deal. Thanks for the advice. @Tundra2 thought he should go ahead and replace but wasn’t sure if it was necessary. Gut feeling was correct in this case.

 

The red spatter everywhere had me wondering if this was hand meat or Sonny's BBQ and sauce.

@Tundra2 I missed you asking about that. When my dad taught me how to TB, you always mark pulley positions with paint before taking off the old belt. Then, when reinstalling, make sure your marks line up. If you happen to not know whether you bumped something a full 360° or you know for a fact you did, there's always using TDC as measure but I've been fortunate to never be in that position, so don't ask me to explain it.

I'm sure there's a more technical or proper way to do it, but that's just how I was taught.

 

This is what I did.

Denso parts finder website shows that 196-1114 as "Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor." Looks like the one near the bottom of the engine. Screenshot immediately below, and then picture of mine below it.




Here's the one I need, and am trying to find.


This is on the drivers side cam.

 

You're fine on the can timing mark just as @empty_lord said. Definitely replace the sensor. How does the rubber ring sandwiched in the crank (harmonic) balancer look? Is it dry-rotted and cracked?

 

There's a rubber ring there? Let me investigate. Upon initial inspection, it's definitely seen better days but I've seen worse things at work.



I can provide better pictures if needed.

 

Yes, there is, as you now know. Lol. Hard to tell the condition from the images. Would need to see better illumination of the ring down in the grooved part but if you'd like I have the brand-new OEM one that @Tundradrenalin gave to me for the mere price of shipping ($300 part) that I would give you. If you want it PM me your address.

 

Paint it a fun color before you ship it out.

 

Haha! @Darkness would say black because it's faster and, guess what? It's black!

 

Thank you for the generous offer, and I accept. PM incoming.

 

NP, just paying it forward to someone in need. @Tundradrenalin was generous to me first.

 

that rings fine. its a damper. if they fail they usually make annoying squeaks when shutting the engine off since the pulley is spinning but the cranks stopped

 

You're probably correct and failures of the part are very uncommon.

 

I’ve only seen it happen once.

 

That's 1X more than me, other than images.

 

It was on a low mileage 02 Tacoma. Super weird. Literally the only Toyota I’ve seen it happen to

 

I wish I knew the specific adhesive auto manufacturers use to bond that rubber to the metal because it is extremely durable and strong considering the conditions it has to hold up under year after year.

 

I had one fail on the I6-250 in my '68 C10. Last straw that caused me to LS-swap it. I loved that inline though. like 3, maybe 4 wires total, and you probably really only needed two for it to run.

All aside, if DD has a fresh one and junior's got it open already ... with almost 300 on the clock, I'd just do it.

 

Are you a native?
Both vehicles I have aren’t from around here, within a year, both got the dry rot, I need new sil sweeps(windows) all around

 

[QUOTE="Tundra2, post: 2404910, member: 25875"[/QUOTE]
PHM just threw up in his gloves a little.