Output speed sensor location

Hi everyone! New to the forums here. I recently had an issue with my 2010 tundra. It has a little over 200K on it and has been a GREAT truck for many years for me. Recently, it decided to go into LIMP mode. I ran the code and it says its the output speed sensor that has no signal. My truck will not go into 5th gear either. I tried taking the negative terminal off battery and it will work sometimes and sometimes not. Also when I crank the first time it goes dead immediately then second go around it stays on.

Apologies if this isn't the forum to ask for advice due to an issue with my truck. I'm desperate and figured what better place than somewhere like here! Anyways, I have looked up the sensor at auto zone and the problem I'm having is where is this output speed sensor? Is it on the end of the transmission? Looks like more than one sensor in that area... I thought about changing it myself but want to make sure I'm not pulling the wrong sensor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Vince

 

I don’t have the answer but try one of the online parts diagrams and see if it shows the location. Hopefully someone will chime in with experience. I’d buy the oem sensor if you do need to replace it. It could be compromised wiring critters? Who knows, but check the wiring and connection if you can locate it.

 

I found the sensor and replaced it. Working great so far. Thanks for replying, rebmo.

 

Care to elaborate - so if someone comes across this post - it is available to them?

THANKS!

 

When you pull the battery, typically the truck won't start on the first time. Thats normal

yeah can we get some more details please? Otherwise this thread is useless. Which sensor did you replace and what was the exact code? I'm not familiar with "output speed sensor" code.

 

My 2010 5.7 Tundra has about 200k on it and threw the code P0722. Found this thread and it didn't have any answer but knew i could fix it. Found the part on Toyota's site for about 100 bucks (it was 50 off). They had this first diagram which made it look like the sensors were driver side ( Labeled Speed Sensor SP2 and NT). Crawled under the truck and felt like a lost idiot. Finally was like i'll check the other side. After checking the other side i saw the sensors, then found this 2nd image on the web. the SP2 Sensor is the one circled in blue that is specific to the code. I was an idiot and changed the NT sensor and the truck threw the code again. Swapped it back and put the new sensor in the back which is the "output" one.

After I figured out the location it was fast. Took about 15 min if that.

10mm socket
small flat head to help remove the wire coupling.

Dealer wanted to charge me 400 something for it.

 

Red is input, blue is output? Do I have that right?

 

Yes that is correct. Currently have the same 0717 code. Both sensors tested ok so I'm concerned I fried my ECM.

 

I had the 0717 code that would go off and on over the course of a couple weeks before I fixed it. It seemed to come on any time I drove for more than 30 minutes or so, and would go off after a few days of shorter trips.

I replaced the input sensor circled in red above with the AISIN (OEM) instead of the Toyota part to save some $. Haven't seen the light again and it's been almost 2 months. It took about 5 minutes to replace (most of that finding the part location - its pretty much directly centered under the vehicle mounted to bottom/front of torque converter) and only required a 10mm socket and ratchet.

My GUESS here is that your sensor is testing fine, but if you tested it after it gets hot it may fail. I hate throwing parts at stuff, but I'd 100% start here before messing with the ECM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284203219904 <-- This is the part I bought

 

I like that plan a lot!!

 

I would swap out one sensor and if it doesn't fix it use the sensor you pulled to swap out the second if they are the same. If that doesn't fix it I would follow the wire harness to look for damage.

 

Success! It was the sensor. Used WVE 5S12624 from Rock Auto and good to go.

 

is it common for both to go bad at the same time?

 

Seems unlikely. The schematic shows 4 independent wires 2 black and 2 yellow that go straight from sensors to the engine ECU with no junction connectors (2 wire plug to each). I'd pull the connectors and inspect them for corrosion.

Look for mice droppings, nesting, any other form of destruction.

If you have OBD Fusion App and the Toyota PID pack you can try and see if the data is present.

This placed the vehicle in limp mode, yes?

 

thanks to keepontruckin for getting back to answer you question its not in limp mode i changed the sensor circled in red in the pic but i am not seeing a change it runs and shifts fine until it gets hot then it won't shift out of 4th gear. I have changed fluid and the S1,SLU, and the SL1 but the only thing that changed is that the hard shift during down shift is not happening any more but I am kinda stuck don't know which way to go would appreciate any and all help thanks

 

Oh boy... how many miles and what is the maintenance history?

The solenoids are only messengers. The ECU sends a command, those two sensors basically report back if that command was fulfilled.

In short, the ECU knows the gear ratios for each gear. The input turbine speed vs output shaft speed has a ratio for each gear and ECU has its lookup table or MAP if you will. When the gearbox does what it's supposed to, everything is fine. When it doesn't, the ECU points a finger at the last solenoids given a command.

Bottom line, they need tested. If the solenoid tests good, the problem is elsewhere - hence them being a messenger and replacing them without testing them may not solve the problem.

There is a pdf file out there somewhere (the A760H) comes to mind but the control is not all that different for the 5.7. Anyway, it tells what solenoids do what, why and when. It sounds like you need to do a leak Check for drums and bands to be applied for 4th gear. This means dropping the valve body and using compressed air to engage and leak check. When air is applied to a piston, you should not hear air escaping, rather a solid Thud as piston moves into place.

You up for that?


Edit this assumes the wiring to the solenoids tests good.