Which crank pulley holder for removing crank bolt?

No, he means the difference between the two crank pulley tools. The original topic of the thread.

 

I feel like somebody needs a hug

 

Ok... I see. Thanks for the clarification

 

Yup!

 

It’s a Sequoia, might need group hug !

 

Got the tool today and removed the crank pulley bolt in 20 seconds with the radiator in the truck.





Tool works great but it's a bit fiddly putting the bolts in. Might have gone with the other one which I now see you can put in one bolt first, than place the tool around it.

 

Maybe tape a piece of cardboard over the side of the radiator that faces the engine to prevent squishing any of the tines.

 

Would recommend to just get the radiator out of the way. Much more comfortable to work with the Rad not in the way.

 

Shhhhh

 

Plenty of room to work with the radiator in place. This is a truck, not some euro sedan.

 

4 bolts for fan shroud, 4 bolts for radiator assembly. Your truck.

 

To be fair, he didn't ask if he should remove the radiator or not. He just wanted to know which of the two available tools was easiest to use.
Also to be fair, he's been given a forum's worth of advice to save him some potential pain, he can do what he pleases with it. Good luck on this project sir, hope it all works out. We only meant the best.

 

Got all the parts off or out of the way and ready to remove the belt after dinner.

 

You may not damage the radiator leaving it in place, be you'll most certainly tear the flesh off your knuckles...

 

I wear gloves so not a scratch so far.

 

How very PHM of you.

 

To your point, I wish the previous owner of my truck had done it while doing the TB/WP at 60k miles. Factory alternator almost burned my truck to the ground at 13yrs/65k mile mark when it suddenly failed during my morning commute. Had I left the NAPA parking lot after installing a brand new battery without noticing wisps of smoke and immediately whipped it into a parking spot and dealt with it, I wouldn't have my truck anymore.

There are just some things, which, when you consider you're doing the work anyway and saving hundreds or thousands, and the part is only an extra $100-200 on a vehicle this old but can cause a myriad of issues ... Nike up, just do it.

Yes, it's potentially a slippery slope. No doubt. But as another wise voice said earlier, there are some things known to cause other massive failures or issues we now know about which weren't so obvious previously.

Cheater

 

The Aisin timing belt kit doesn't come with cam and crank seals. Do people replace them as PM even if they are not leaking?

 

No. If they're good, leave em.

 

Ok and not arguing for the sake of arguing, but people here are saying to replace a good radiator which might take a half hour to replace if later it goes bad, but not to replace those seals which would basically be another timing belt job if they start leaking in a few months. That's odd.

 

It's totally up to you if you want to replace the radiator or not. I only had to replace mine because the truck was crashed and it busted it. If it's ok, keep it.

 

I'll say the same....best I can tell from re-reading this thread, those comments about radiator dealt with suggesting removing radiator to work on TB job. Some did mention radiator replacement when veh has 180K miles or there abouts. Most if not all suggestions are simply that. I would not however take all comments with a grain of salt because most of these good folks speak from experience. We all simply wish to give our best advice. Where you may be confusing radiator replacement is the dirty radiator fluid you showed in the radiator thread you started.

Is the 4.7L an iron block? Coolant dirty. | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Date code on the radiator is 7/2018.

 

If the seals fail you get a slow leak and can fix it soon and be on your way. If your radiator fails, and coolant mixes with trans fluid, you'll likely kill your engine.

Potential outcome of either failing is the difference.

 

Replacing the seal is going to be like replacing the timing belt all over again. A major job. If your radiator fails and coolant mixes with trans fluid, how would that kill your engine? It might cause the hoses to swell or the water pump to leak but no permanent damage to the engine.

 

Trans oil mixing with coolant causes a sludge that doesn't circulate. So the engine rapidly overheats cause head and or block damage.

 

Had that happen in Chevy. They make cleaners just for that along with a half dozen flush cycles and no long term issues as long as you replace all the hoses.

 

Search "Toyota pink milkshake" and all your questions will be answered

 

All parts replaced and engine buttoned up without having to remove the radiator. Started right up.