Door check problems

ive replaced mine two times driver door i have a 1015

 

Lets us know how it works out. And if seems just as good as OEM. Hopefully even a little stronger. I always found the door checks to be one of the few weak parts on a Tundra.

 

Check out Timmy the Toolman Toyota video from YouTube. I installed the kit from Russia on the rear doors on my 2002 Sequoia. The doors would flop open or closed before the install and now the doors will hold open on a hill.



https://youtu.be/u2LCa9WRYe0

 

Replaced the drivers door door check repair kit yesterday. I added the two thin shims and now the door takes some effort to open and close. Hopefully the new parts will wear in and be a little easier to open and close. It sure beats the door closing on you. After the door panel was removed I removed the door speaker for easy access. When I drilled out the spot welds I started with a smaller drill and kept stepping up to a large bit until most of the spot weld was removed. Then it was easy to get the two pieces apart. You need to pay attention when removing the old wear block and rubber block so everything goes back in correctly. When replacing the cover I found a pair of Channel Lock pliers were a big help to force the blocks back into position after I had gotten them started with a small screw driver. The parts are a really tight fit. Yes, it was a little extra work taking the door check apart, but $25.00 for the kit for 4 doors is a heck of a lot better than $40.00-$50.00 each for new checks. I am going to wait a few weeks to see if I need to add the thin shims to the other doors.

 

Alright, got them installed. They do fit and only take a slight modification. The OE ones have the bolt tack welded to the body, the Camry ones just have open holes. I have an nut and bolt assortment from harbor freight and the 8mmx1.0 bolts threaded right into the body of the new ones. The OE nuts were the same thread pitch so they snugged right up.

Now, how do they work? For $12, I’m not complaining. My original ones were so bad, they would close themselves on level surfaces, no joke. They now will stay open on their own, on flat surfaces. That’s about where the good stops. I parked on a few inclines and they still will shut on their own. It did fix my immediate problem of shutting on flat grounds but I think I’ll still by that $30 Mother Russia kit and rebuild my OE ones. To use that kit, you’ll have to cut the tack welds off to open them up. Any questions, feel free to ask.

 

The more I look into this, the more I think these things are universal. I looked at the old ladies 2014 GMC Terrain and I’m almost certain hers would fit my tundra. I think as long as they have two bolt mount and the third eyelet at the end, they would fit.

GMC Terrain Door checks


I did order the mother Russia kits so I will rebuild my old ones. I watch that YouTube video posted and they seem to work solid. I can’t wait to have this problem finally fixed.

 

Finally got all my door check repair kits installed and everything back together. When I rebuilt the passenger front door I noticed the arm on the door check was about an inch shorted than the drivers door, door check arm. Have no idea what the difference in length is for. Had to get up early and get a door finished before the mosquitoes woke up to attack me. Some of the photos of after market arm I noticed different length than the original. To be on the safe side I would make sure the door check stopped the door when opening before the door hinges stop the door. Using the door hinge for a stop would put a lot of wear and torque on the hinge.

 

Got mine put in today and they kick ass. Here is the full post in my build thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/southpaw’s-2000-tundra-limited-4x4-build.53510/page-5#post-2373460

Some tips for anyone that is going to use the same kit. Watch that video Wahoo posted, its spot on. Also read the directions from the ebay link as they are actually pretty good and show pictures on how to insert them.

Tools needed:
Phillips screw driver/bit
T27 Torx
Trim panel tool
Vise
Dremel with cut off wheel
Drill with various sizes of small drill bits
10mm, 12mm sockets/ratchet

 

Both can be used on either door. On one side it is stamped "LR" for left front but if you flip it over, it says "FR."

 

Gotcha. But they are the same length for sure

 

Reviving this thread.

Due to the war, that same seller from Russia isn't in business anymore. Probably because no goods can come in from Russia.

Does anyone have another seller or source for this door repair kit?

 

Just buy it from scAmazon, search for B098QXKQZ6 and you'll find it quite easily.

 

Thanks for this... it's been on my long-term list (once I get the big stuff done), but went ahead and ordered while they're available. I did notice that the Amazon kit does NOT include the graphite lube that is mentioned in the other kits and in the linked youtube video. I'll plan to use Slip Plate or some other graphite or dry lube instead.

Since they're for multiple Toyota models, the Tundra guys may want to get them while they can still be had.

 

I tried searching for this, but nothing. Did you have a different result?

 

I guess? Edit: As assassin mentions, you'll need to choose Toyota from the make/model list.

UNEVIX Car Door Check Repair Kit for Toyota, Lexus, Scion Car - Premium Auto Door Check Kit with 4 Door Fixators, 8 Compensatory Pads - Heavy-Duty Door Check Set - Easy To Use Door Reinforcement Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098QXKQZ6

 

Just got to select the right type.

 

Reading the comments and questions/answers, it seems their selection is smaller than before. They should have a Type 1 selection, but they do not. I suspect it is due to low supply and the war. Their Type 2 says it works for Tundras, but the parts look different than the kit in previous posts.

I gotta get these doors fixed, so I may be the guinea pig on if this kit works.

 

UNEVIX Car Door Check Repair Kit (4 doors with dry lube, Type 1 for TOYOTA, LEXUS, SCION, ACURA, PONTIAC cars)

https://www.amazon.com/Check-Repair-Stopper-Replace-Toyota/dp/B095LT69S2?crid=Y0HXUQR7Q30C&keywords=B095LT69S2&qid=1648587684&sprefix=b095lt69s2%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-1

i think this is the right one?

 

It is! I ordered it... said there was only 1 in stock! Thank you, sir!

 

Was hoping @SouthPaw, @FrenchToasty or really anyone would report back on how the Camry (or Corolla?) door checks worked on the first-gen Tundra. Have a '00 SR5 AC and need to do the same ASAP.

TIA!

 

I ordered one of the Camry door checks mentioned above and unfortunately can confirm that they do NOT work on the 1st gen Tundras. They look similar, but have a slight angle to them and will not fit. Worth a try.

I would really like to replace the door checks since they're worn out and useless. I bought the repair kits for them, but it turns out the ones on our Tundra were repaired before and someone spot welded the casings completely closed for whatever reason making it impossible to open them without destroying them.

Don't feel like paying $83 for OEMs since they'll likely fail the same way.

I suppose I could buy used ones and repair them when they go bad.

If anyone comes up with a better option, please post it.

TIA!

 

$13 Dorman 924-963 Rear Right/Left Door Check Compatible with Select Nissan Models

Dorman 924-963 worked for my 05 DC. The Dorman part is actually for a Nissan Altima but can be modified using your factory door check parts.

https://www.tundras.com/posts/2379172

https://www.tundras.com/threads/door-check-repair-kit-warning.107334/

 

That's great news! I took a look at your post. Very creative.

As mentioned, the door checks on ours were repaired by the previous owner. The casings are spot welded shut but based on your post I should be able to make them work with the Dorman bits. Just ordered two so I'll post back with results.

Thanks again!

 

That second link I posted shows the Dorman part used along with the leg from the factory door check and includes pictures. The Dorman leg is a bit too short. You just have to take them apart and switch the parts. Keep us posted.

 

Received them today. Now just have to find the time to pull them and the door apart to put them in!

 

I wish 'Yota had designed them with the studs attached to the door skin instead of the door check. That would allow us to change the door checks out without having to pull the door panels off and remove the door checks thru the speaker holes.

 

Great write up and creative solution. It's nice to know there's a second way to solve this issue, especially since the Russian kits are now unobtanium.

 

From the other thread (https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-dc-daily-driver-2wd-to-4wd-conversion.48447/page-3#post-2562288):

So I finally found time to get the new door check's end cut off but I'm not clear about how to remove the "squeezy bits" from the new door check and/or how to hammer them onto the OEM door check.

I tried hammering the shaft of the new one out from the top but it seems to be unmovable. I didn't want to do any damage so I wanted to check with you to get your feedback. Maybe I just need a bigger hammer?

TIA!

 

Bend those 4 little tabs straight and the two pieces will separate, exposing the squeezy bits inside. Gently bend them back. They will most likely break anyway, its not very strong metal. Then pry apart the pieces along the red line as I've drawn it.