Ask the Toyota mechanic!

A friend of mine who is also a Toyota master tech also has a first gen Tundra. I remember he disabled the tpms by grounding a wire off the tpms module. Do a google search. Most of the older Tundras with blinking tpms lights are usually a dead sensor battery. Personally I would connect to techstream and figure out what the issue is. Might not be as expensive as your thinking.

 

As far as error codes...can they be pinpointed to the exact mile they activated though the computer?
This is important in a warranty discussion with a true Toyota dealership.

 

Hey @Ruggybuggy,
2013 Tundra Dbl Cab and the power door locks occasionally don't work. Started mostly with the front passenger but now seems to be something that can affect any of the. Other posts have pointed clearly to bad actuators but those all indicated complete failure, which is not what I have. Is this still likely actuators or more likely electrical given the irregularity? (it's not the fob) Thanks in advance.

 

My reader doesn't give a mileage figure like what the odometer read at the time of activation, but it shows how many mile were driven with the MIL/CEL illuminated.

 

Yes I believe so through Techstream but not sure why your worried. If your under warranty and your CEL is on why wait to bring it in? You could always take a picture of the instrument cluster showing the light on and mileage.

 

So all the door locks work perfect from the fob and you only have an issue at the door switches?

 

No, same issue can occur when using fob or the interior locking button.

 

Which doors do not work? Do they not work on both the unlock and lock? How frequently do they act up?

 

Failure happens both ways (lock and unlock). I would say front passenger is the most common and it was initially the only door that had the issue. But within the last couple of weeks I think I have experienced it at one point or another with all 4 doors. My data is going to be slightly skewed though since I use the back doors much left often than the front. I would say that it happens at least 1 out of every 7 or 8 trips.

 

Do you have Techstream? The door lock circuit is controlled by the main body ECU. Because you said that the problem occurs with the fob and from the door switches I would think it unlikely an input issue. Using Techstream could verify this. Do you have a door lock wiring diagram?

If you dont have Techstream or a wiring diagram I would start by removing the door panels and verifying that there is power to each of the door lock actuators. There are just two wires to each actuator and the polarity switches when locking and unlocking. Use a test light and connect directly to those wires.

 

I don't have a techstream but I can open up the panel. Are you thinking the wiring may have come slightly loose in some way which is what's causing the problem to be inconsistent?

 

Putting a test light on the each connector eliminates the door locks as a possible problem and will allow you to check the wiring in the door. Also with the test light connected you can hold down the switch and with the test light illuminated you can do a wiring harness wiggle test. Grab the wiring harness where it exists the door and goes into the body of the truck and wiggle it while watching the test light. Ice the doors are used often over time the wires can break form the constant bending. The problem is more common on the driver's door.

To be honest Techstream and a wiring harness would be the best way to diag the problem. It will allow you to work all the door switches and verify the the body module is recieving the inputs. You can also work the actuators and test the circuit from the module to the actuators.

 

Alright, thank you for the guidance. Really appreciate it.

 

Roger to both you and Wynn.
Thanks for the response!

 

Hi, I have 2020 Tundra with 10,000miles and a week ago after the car sitting at work for 8 hours, it had a hard start issue, which I managed to start after clearing codes, multiple misifire was one of the codes. Now I have often p0019 and when at moderate to full throttle in gear only, not in park/neutral I get a p0302, which I have to clear the pendind codes and restart the engine.

I have swapped with existing parts the following, VVT solenoid on exhaust bank 2, VVT sensor with intake on bank 2, coils with cylincer 2 and 4, spark plugs too, and camshaft sensor with one of the VVT sensors as they are the same part. This morning I changed the injector for cyclinder 2 "(where the p0302) points too with cylinder 1 on opposite bank ofcourse. Still I get a p0302 on moderate to hard acceleration out of 4 of these throttle conditions. I also have disconnected battery for 10 minutes, idle 10 minutes AC off, idle 10 minutes AC on, slow driving 10 minutes, and the moderate to full throttle, moderate I mean 4000rpm to 5000rom, full throttle beyond 5000rpm foot to the floor, this is when the p0302 code activates, car runs rough as there is a misfire, but CEL is just flashing and p0302 is recorded, engine runs slightly rough and lacks full power, until I clear the code, restart to reset the VCS/pre-collision faults, which I believe is that ECU turning these off due to the p0302 code as safety measure to the driver.

Thanks for your help.

 

I don't have warranty, as this is a grey import from Canada, I live in Dubai. Tundras are sold by non dealer importers here.

 

That sucks. What are you using to pull codes?

 

Tundra tick/rattle



Well, I tried everything suggested to no avail.

Then I had one final thing to try before breaking down to diagnose.

Did an oil change using this.





So, a short term update.
After 1500 miles since new oil, no more noise.
It stopped immediately after switching to the Signature Series and has not made this noise since.
Maybe, some of the others with this noise could try and see if they can duplicate results.

Does it make for an expensive oil change?
Yes.
Is it worth losing the noise and the peace of mind?
Absolutely!

 

Many people knock Amsoil for being a boutique snake oil. Clearly they never used it because I have had the same results as you in a few 3.4’s, a Tacoma 4.0, several RAV4’s, and a 4Runner 4.0. It really does get rid of the tick. Amsoil=not having your Toyota sounds like a Mack R series at idle.

 

Scangauge 2, and at times a Bluetooth dingle to a android app. I am about to get my cable for techstream but it will be another 10 days

 

Yes you will need to use Techstream to diag it properly. What cable are you buying? They are not all equal.

 

My experience was exactly the same. This oil change I went to M1 and the tick/rattle came back. Going back to Amsoil next oil change.

 

I bought this one, as referenced from another thread on here. https://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/mini-vci-for-toyota-with-toyota-tis.html

 

If I’m seeing the description correctly, you’ll be limited due to firmware. Firmware 2.0.4 cable is what you want not 1.4.1

 

Right site but wrong product. You want this one. Get the driver from the OVtune website. I personally wouldn’t run the software that came with it.

 

What are the limitations with the one i have out of curiosity?

 

Hey I got the cable today, and after installing version 10, which did not work due to the drivers I had, then installed version 16 and used the drivers supplied and it works. When it fires up it does say that all the functions are not available, and I can work in offline mode. But I was able to get to the active tests, clear codes....but p0019 keeps coming back!!!!!

Anyhow this software is a monster, and loads to learn. But I am curious as to what will not work though with the cable i have. I incedently used firmwire version 1.4.8 for the driver.

 

sone of the engine data doesn’t show up. Some testing is not available.

 

2021, Tundra Limited:
The Brake Warning Light comes on for no apparent reason when traveling down the road. I sometimes notice a new small piece of pavement that might be the cause, but not always. Is there a calibration or adjustment the dealer or I can perform?

 

Techstream would have to be used to do a healthcheck and check for any codes. The dealer isn’t capable of doing any kind of calibration. There may be a software update that might address the problem and it will be displayed when the healthcheck is done. Be prepared to be able to duplicate the problem when you bring it in.