Darkest Engine Oil I've Seen

Please let us k ow the oil analysis results, I’m very curious.

 

Had the jars right under the drain plug as I unscrewed it. I had to be fast about it but managed to catch all the oil right as I took out the drain plug. Will be disposing of it at my local Irish-themed auto store.

 

What do you see wrong with it? I recently got it replaced on recall with the local Toyota dealership which is why it looks brand new.
I don't know jack about suspensions so please tell me if something looks off about it!

 

To me it may be an optical collusion but is that bolt loose ?

 

Ben, you need to take a better pic of that lower ball joint and post it here, it looks like its failed.

 

yall smoking something, the lower ball joint nut is on the bottom

 

You're seeing the small bolt poke through the spindle (silver part on top).

That ball joint has the cover on it so probably Toyota

It looks fine to me.

 

Fun fact on those LBJ covers. They only have one part number for both sides of the vehicle (at least for my 02 tundra).

Try buying both sides and you’ll get two identical pieces which is wrong. I don’t use them anymore because of that now.

 

That's correct, but it looks like the proper rubber boot that holds in the grease and protects the ball joint is missing. Also that protector screws into the LBJ. See mine.

 

It’s literally the shiny new ball joint that your seeing, rusty bolt head on bottom and bolt poking thru at the top

 

Am I drunk (possibly) or does it look like their spindle isnt mating with the LBJ like mine is? I don't see any shiny between the LBJ and spindle.

 

That's what I see.

 

I think this is your classic blue dress/red dress or whatever the fuck that was. The secondary pics show a good BJ, play ball!

 

Also that is correct. The LBJ tightens to both the lower control arm and the spindle. The LBJ-to-LCA bolt has a cotter pin so as long as that is done correctly that won't come loose. To me it looks like the bolts that connect the LBJ (and by extension the LCA) are loose. The LBJ and spindle should be closer together. If this is the case, OP is really walking on egg shells. Those four bolts are the main failure point I believe. Unless there is some sort of optical illusion I'm missing?

 

Yes this might be a blue dress scenario but OP should definitely post some more pictures... I see something wrong unless it's a complete illusion. That LBJ should be closer to the spindle.

 

Closer pictures would help.

For another visual; here's one from the Sequoia, plus the new kid on the block waiting to get installed.

 

As some have already stated, color is a poor indicator of oil age and/or condition. If you have any concerns about the internals of the motor I would suggest doing what Tundra2 is doing and get a Blackstone labs kit and send it off to them for analysis. The results are very revealing and worth the $30 or so you pay.

 

Oil looks normal heavy use from the pictures. It could actually be a good indicator of a high-performing oil to clean gunk out of the engine, putting it in suspension for the draining...

I would do several short interval oil changes and consider seafoam or other cleaners.

I recently did a couple short OCs. I used some seafoam and some motor medic, 1/2 of the recommended amount splitting the bottle between two vehicles. One vehicle had 1 year and 1100 miles, and the other 6 months and 600 miles. Anyway, this was a rehabilitation and cleaning move on used vehicles. The oil in each drained out dark chocolate black. So, dark oil coming out means a lot of dirt and grime presumably being cleaned out with it. A good sign, in some respects.

Run some short oil change intervals, and even consider a motor oil flush additive prior to the next change. I use seaform and motor medic. Can help clean out gunk.

 

There was a recent discussion on my local 4runner page, and I agree and sorta already started to apply it; where I live is one of the harshest environments, which basically means I should be changing fluids more often than not. I’ve got no problem doing fluid more often if it will extend the life of my toys

 

Similar. I'd say I am in an mildly extreme environment with all temp ranges. Oil is so incredibly cheap these days that I'm routinely finding it for between $1.50 to $2.50 per qt. for premium synthetics.* I have nearly 300 qts of oil on hand right now.

(* Recently Walmart M1 High Mileage and Quaker State clearances, Autozone Chevron clearances, along with M1 and Castrol rebates, and Costco sales have been very favorable.)

I'm changing it well below the recommendations for either time or miles on my vehicles. I'm using up old stock conventional for really short OCIs - basically a fill, run for a couple months, use a additive, and drain situation. And with short OCIs one can even just replace the filter every other change. My synthetic oil changes for 6 of my vehicles are now in the $8 to $25 range, depending on whether I change the filter and the cost of the filter, generally between $4 and $10.

 

How many rolls of TP do you have?
Haha that’s awesome, one day I’d like to be ready for that level of getting my shit together.
But it’s always nice to be on top of things that can easily slip your mind if your not living on planet earth…………ahhheggm 20-30k interval people……..

 

Having a deep supply of goods you are going to use and buying them well in advance on clearances and sales and discounts, etc. is just money in the bank. Yesterday I bought 60 qts. of Mobil1 full synthetic boxes - 5 boxes 12 qts each - for $95. Brings a oil change to under $9 for a drain and fill. Or $13 with a $4 filter... This is for my Fords that take 0w20 and Motorcraft 820S filter. A $13 oil if I replace the filter; otherwise $9.

I know folks paying $50, $100, even $150 for oil changes.