What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Some go up to 2018 models. Wiring is different on the 20/21's so you would have to check compatibility closely.

 

Holy hell....do you have a tractor? That's a whole lot of yard to cut.

 

Here's the one I've been looking at. https://www.usstockphoenixautomotiv...-navigation-radio-for-toyota-tundra-2014-2019

 

Its only 2.5 acres. 54" ztr knocks it out in about an hour

 

Just a curious question for anyone adding the phone charger in the console. Don’t you like using the cord since there are plenty of USB ports. I just keep my cord plugged in and plug my phone in it.

 

Old school! Love it. I have another question. Why y’all gotta charge your phones so much?I’ve been up since 0630 and mines still above 50%

 

I have to charge mine a lot because I still have iPhone 7plus and the battery does not hold a charge very long. But there is no reason to upgrade since my phone works fine. I will soon get the 12 max eventually.Also I plug my phone in because of my Apple Music.

 

I felt the same way until I got the wireless car play dongle. Now I either leave my phone in my pocket or place it on the console to charge.

 

Had the same problem with my 7, you can get a new battery cheap if you’re gonna keep it a while. I didn’t bother though, just upgraded.

 

Yeah I’m going to upgrade eventually that’s why I’m not changing the battery out. Soon as Verizon give me a good discount on the 12 max then I will. Lol.

 

because it is fun to do simple mods!
I really like it for longer drives.

 

I'm looking to get cement bulge, grille and bumper end caps for my CM limited as well.. where'd you get yours?

 

Got my Anytime Camera wired up. Just gotta cut the wires to flip it from reverse but didn't notice until after i got the grill back on.

 

Added two SR Rigid 6" Midnight spot beam lights between my two 6" SAE yellow ones in my lower bumper; they're super bright! I wired the new ones separate from the ambers on my switch-pros controller. I was able to connect the four lights together using stainless threaded rod and jam nuts and no bracketry between each

 

I got everything from Sparks Parts.

 

Yes, there's the plug at the bottom (I had to undo mine with an impact last time due to shop overrightening it) and then the housing itself. There is a metal spring clip that keeps the actual housing from unscrewing on its own. You may need to flex that away from the housing while unscrewing it.

 

If you haven't drained your filter yet, do that first. There is a plastic tube about 2 inches long in the box with the filter. It pushes a plunger to drain the oil when you snap it in, so make sure the pan is under it.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8_kUPEDp_U
got to the 2:50 mark. it shows the oil filter drain attachment. but i believe the box shows the way to change the filter including draining the oil from the filter since it has the attachment inside the box....at least the toyota ones do.

 

Nice Stereo...which one is that?

 

i think after a first oil change, the dealer (whether intentional or not) slightly flexes/bends it back to do it. but i agree that it doesn't really make contact or do anything IMO.

 

Cap is definitely not reverse thread. Did my first oil change on it Saturday and I had to use a breaker bar to get it off. I fully thought I was going to break the plastic housing but it finally started turning. Then my next problem was trying to get the tool off the filter housing, I had to smack it with a hammer a few times to get it free.

 

All of it regular. turn left to unscrew it. not sure how you're doing it, but i always drain oil with oil fill cap off. then open up cap with 3/8 drive, push plastic adapter drain into it, then remove filter housing. never had issues on my 2011 or my 2017, but maybe dealer put on too tight or something.

 

when removing, i find it helps to leave the filter wrench on it until after i put the housing back on (no real need to take it off unless swapping for the metal housing one). then after tightening, it is easier to take it off since it's back attached to the truck. if too bad, i grab a 3/4" open end wrench and put it on the end nut on the wrench housing perpendicular to it and wobble it off. most times i can get it off with the 3" extension used to put it on and off.

 

I wouldn't suggest the impact, but thats just me. i've found me and a breaker bar is usually stronger and more efficient than an impact in most cases anyway. i'm assuming you have another vehicle to go get parts if needed if/when things go south? if time is allowed, i'd suggest getting a metal filter housing. just my $.02

 

I also want to get a metal housing now that I've got the first oil change out of the way and I know what I'm doing. Any particular brand I should get?

 

i personally ordered this one and haven't had issues

$42 Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap + Plug 15620-31060 15643-31050

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07984MX2G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

 

Perfect I'll grab that and install on my next change.

 

You might consider a non-factory alternative. I have a service agreement, so it's not relevant yet, but it will be soon. Others here may have experience-based advice.
https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

And yes, I will extremely selfishly ask your opinion of it if you purchase.

 

Out of stock... I'll keep an eye on it. Won't need it for a few months

 

They’ve been out of stock for 2-3 months.