ATF Screen/Filter O-Ring

Getting ready to change the ATF & filter on my 2017 Tundra. Toyota Filter/Screen part 35330-60070. Does it come with the o-ring or do you have to buy it seperate?

 

It should but not if a screen not sure why you would bother. I dropped pans on F150s and changed fluid every 30k. If a paper filter I replaced but never a screen. I have owned 8 or 9 Ford trucks and put over a million miles on them with no tranny problems at all.

 

It does not come with an o-ring... I just bought a strainer, o-ring and oil pan gasket.. 07 Tundra.

 

Exactly what I needed....thank you - will buy the o-ring, too. Also getting the pan gasket.

 

The pan gasket is silicon. It doesn't need to be replaced as it won't stick to the pan or housing.

But, if your worried about it you could buy it/order it at dealership (depending on distance) and return when you can re-use the one you have.

Remember to gear up for broken bolts. Two are blind, rest are through and if you live in "OHIO" you will break them all. (I hope it doesn't happen but believe it will).

I did this years ago and unless you have a known issue are you sure you want to do this? Get yourself under that truck and see if the through bolts are rusted. If they are (most likely), you really need to decide if you want to do this.

Good luck

 

The truck is almost 4 years old, 42,000 miles and I do tow a heavy camper. I thought I would do it now hoping the bolts would still come out. Planned on hitting them with PB Blaster and using my 3/8" impact wrench. I will coat them with anti-seize before I reinstall. When yours broke off, could you still get on the stub with vise grips or did you have to drill them out?

 

Mine snapped flush with the housing, so i had to 1) grind the bolt shaft flat so it wasn't walking the drill, 2) center punch the bolt (hopefully in center as you don't want to cut/drill the tranny house housing and 3) drill out slowly using incremental drill bits, fast speed lots of lubricant, no pressure (you don't want to break the bit). Then you can grab some of the threads and pull out and through, but clearance is tight and exposed threads are low.

However, i smelled like tranny fluid for 2 weeks as it was showering on my head and down my back while i did this (i was lucky enough to use a lift) drill them out, luckily i didn't have to helicoil them as i got lucky and was able to extract them once drilled. However, they are grade 2 bolts (very low quality metal) they might break before you even push the impact trigger. They are 1/4-20 size bolts and torqued to a 8 in-lbs i think. the impact to break the torque will just snap the head.

I think i'd install cover while i worked on the bolts next time. I replaced with stainless steel bolts, but @130k miles now and very, very limited towing will only replace fluid from now on.

I didn't know they were thru bolts so i didn't inspect or pb blast them on my 2010 tundra (new to me in 2014 with 90k) in Maine. Our try to cut/dremel/grind the rusted bits flush before attempting to remove the bolt.

If you can see the exposed threads and they are rust free maybe you'll get lucky?

Use your own judgement here but:
Toyota considers the fluid under heavy towing to be replaced at 60k. They never list the screen as requiring replacement.
(if you call them they will tell you fluid is life of vehicle, my dealership considers life of vehicle to be 100k).

 

I appreciate the insight...will maybe regret it but I am going to give it a go - will let you know how it turns out.

 

My gasket broke upon removal. It happens. Better to be prepared and have an extra

 

The filter, imo, is a waste of time to replace. I won't be changing mine again until 1 million miles, if I have the truck that long. I changed it at 173k miles and had virtually zero material inside of it. At that rate, it could go millions and millions of miles before filling up and clogging. The trans would have to be running really rough and be burning through clutch material to fill the filter up before a million miles. The magnets barely had anything on them either

 

Man, I've heard so many horror stories about removing these transmission pan bolts. Almost like you should be spraying them with an rust prohibiter when they're brand new, annoying (but makes sense) that the holes are through and the bolts can rust so easily. I'm getting ready to do a valve body in my truck and climbed under it using a mirror to inspect for rust, I don't have any (yay California?) but am still weary of breaking them pulling them out. For those that snapped them, did you feel high resistance before snapping? Or was it a sudden snap with constant pressure? In my experience, if you feel increased resistance and know a bolt is going to snap you can turn them back in a little bit then back counter clockwise and kind of work them out slowly but surely.

FWIW, I am a huge fan of:

$37 Alden 4507P Grabit Micro Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Small Bolt and Screw Remover - Ideal for PC and Mac Repair - Made in The USA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q60UOO the "Grabit" series of extractors. I bought them after watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVTn6wI4g6s The set is expensive, sure, but when dealing with small (M3 - M6) sized bolts, it has saved my (and friends) bacon multiple times, although most of the time we're messing with broken bolts we're dealing with bolts broken off into our bike engine cases/etc. The set is made in the USA and you really do NOT want to break off a screw extractor or drill bit in your bolt. Ask me why I know this.

 

Mine acted like it was coming out, and just snapped off. I had to drill it out and put in a helicoil. Wasn't bad at all. I upgraded all the hardware to 10.8 and used nuclear grade never seize (got it from work). It it breaks, and you can't get it with a left handed bit, don't try and extractor. I mean, you CAN try an extractor, but if the head of the bolt broke off, the extractor will likely break as well, which will lead to complete hell, as you can not drill through the extractor. So again, my recommendation, from experience, is use a left handed bit, if that doesn't work, drill it out and heli coil. Get all parts before hand, and if you don't use them, just return them. Hope this helps!

 

Was the exposed portion of your pan bolts rusted? If so, sounds like as soon as those rusted threads started engaging the transmission case, it bound up and caused the head to snap off. Blows my mind that Toyota/Aisin would spec such a weak bolt for that application.

 

Zero rust. Truck lives in the south. Bolts are grade. 0.000001 from the factory, if I had to guess . I only had one break though.

 

I've never heard of a bolt in this application failing without somebody trying to turn it. Makes sense they would source the cheapest material available. There is no reason to remove it from the maintenance prospective.

Noting the bolts are "soft" drilling worked well for me. If you can center the drill bit perhaps you can get lucky with no heli-coil. But I'd have one on hand. Once you cleared the center of the bolt perhaps an extractor would work?

As the saying goes. "This 30 minute job is one broken bolt away from a 3 day ordeal."

So my opinion:
1st choice: Don't do this unless you have a problem.

2nd choice: If your going to do it anyway (sometimes this is the best way to learn) then have the extractors, drill bits, replacement bolts, time, patience and replacement material on hand. Plan about 6 hours and make sure you put a piece of cardboard under yourself if you don't want tranny fluid everywhere.

Question: What are you using for new fluid and what method are you doing to fill the system back up and verify at correct temperature?

 

Did any of you folks that had bolts break use an impact wrench? I am thinking that the vibration will help with removal. I have a Milwaukee M12 Stubby and I can turn down the juice - thought I would start low and see what happens.

 

I think the rust makes the bolt larger and the strength of the bolt won't take the torque to turn with the rust. i wonder if you could cut the rust off(threads off) with a dremel before un-threading if it would work?

Granted i don't think access above the tranny allows this.

I am hoping the impact works well for you. I really, really want this to go smooth for you.
Just tool up and you'll be fine. Just remember two are blind so you'll have no trouble removing those.

(just remember the guys from the desert reported at least one broken bolt).

 

I assume that you can access the top of the bolt to spray PB Blaster. Even so I don't see getting enough on the bolt to make a difference. It is your truck but the risk/rewards just do not make sense.

 

I soaked my bolts for 3 days with a mix of kroil, mouse milk, and penetro 90. And still ended up with a broken bolt. I wouldn't recommend an impact.

 

Just confirming here, you had your bolt break on your 2014 right?

I was doing some parts-diffing this morning and it turns out that Toyota allegedly revised the part number of the bolt used on the transmissions between 2013 and 2014 (for "3rd" gen it looks like)

The 2007-2013 trucks have: 91611B0625 specified as the transmission pan bolts, which is described as "A/C Refrigerant Line Bolt"
The 2014+ trucks have: 9011906A02 specified as the transmission pan bolts, which is described as "BOLT (FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL PAN)"

A quick google search on the 2013 and prior truck bolt shows a two-piece bolt, with a captive washer on the end of it. I can't find any images of the 2014+ bolt though.

 

Yes, mine is a 2014. It's just a regular bolt. I took them to a bolt warehouse warehouse replaced all of them with grade 10.8

 

You are absolutely correct about the problems that can be had if an extractor breaks off inside your bolt. For this very reason I will take a piece of steel and hand grind a four sided taper that I can hammer into the hole. I then use this to try and turn the bolt out. Since the steel is soft, you can always drill it out of the hole if it breaks.

One additional tip, drill the broken bolt out with a bit that is .030" under the minor diameter of the thread. This will usually make the threads so weak that the extractor will not have to do much work. If this still does not work, you can drill it out right at the minor diameter and use a tap to peel the bolt threads out of the hole. Keep in mind that if you use a tap with this method, you will have to clear the tap quite a bit as you make your way down the hole.

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

So I just finished draining the ATF (~4 qts), dropped the pan and filter (~2 qts) and installed the new filter. No issues with the pan bolts -they came out easy peasy. Prior to removing, I cleaned off the top rim of the pan using compressed air and sprayed PB Blaster on the top & bottom of the rim and let it sit overnight. I used my Milwaukee M12 3/8" stubby impact wrench at the lowest setting and they came right out. The bolts look really good so I'm not sure all that was necessary. I'm going to clean the pan bolt and hole threads with my thread restorer, slather the bolts with anti-seize and reinstall. The gasket was intact so I will save it for the future.

 

I just did mine about a month ago. No issue with broken bolts, they all came off easy. I live in AZ so hardly any rust if any on the bolts. As said, they are through bolts so make sure the through threads are clean of mud and rust.

 

Just wanted to report into here, I had the pan dropped on my truck at 45,000 miles and my mechanic had zero issues pulling the bolts out. To be fair, my truck is a California truck and doesn't have any rust on the undercarriage.

The "old" 2007-2013 bolts are visually different (head wise) than the 12 2014+ bolts I purchased. I'm wondering if the early 2014 trucks were using transmissions built with the bolts from 2007-2013.