Driver's side lean

Well I figure that the factory has different springs to counteract the lean, which would either mean that their longer or have a higher weight rating to compensate (this is just a guess though). So all we're doing is doing the same thing. Everything I've read is saying that this is the correct way to fix it. Putting spacers on top of the coil is an alternative, but most folks (that I've seen) would rather use the shocks to adjust the height to balance it out over them. That said, they say to not go more than 12 threads showing. I'll go 10 and see where I'm at. I have the larger fuel tank, so a partial lean is expected, but not a full inch.

That said, if you have an alternative idea on how to fix it, please let us know.

 

Having one spring longer than the other is different than having one side of a CO preloaded more than the other.
Like I said, I’ve done it but not a fan of it. Once we get into talking spring lengths and preload, we’ll go down a rabbit hole the likes of which we’ll never come out of!
There’s simply 3 options:
1) live with it
2) adjust your adjustable CO’s to compensate
3) use a spacer
The train of thought is “why use a spacer on an adjustable CO?”
I get it, doesn’t make much sense, on the surface.
Preload and spring rates and I are old enemies and I’ve gone ‘round and ‘round fighting the more/less with it, including shorter coils with stiffer rates vs. longer coils with softer rates. It’s a debacle I don’t care to get into but the www has all the info you could ever seek. good luck in your adventures and stay safe.

 

yes the oem ones. It's actually 12 /9. not 14. no issues to report. ride the same.

 

I was able to crank the driver's side to 10 while they were still on the truck, it wasn't much trouble to get two more turns at full droop.

 

Thanks for that!

 

It's interesting that on Icon's site they say the lean should be corrected with preload and not shims.

https://iconvehicledynamics.zendesk...d and built,a suspension system is introduced.

 

My 2014 was perfectly level on my factory shocks. Now that I've put in the 5100s at the highest setting, the front driver side sits a full inch lower than the passenger side. I'll be going in for shims in the near future. I originally noticed it from the back. The right to left slant across the top of the tailgate was glaringly obvious and once I noticed it, it drove me nuts!

 

I was 1/2 inch off before my Bilstein install / 1/4 inch after / added a two shims to the drivers side and 1 to the passengers side and it sits level now. after 6 months i think it's settled in so I'm happy now.

 

People have said to me that my truck had a driver side lean and I just couldn’t figure it out, it wasn’t until I took my daily constitutional crap BEFORE I got in my tundra...
then it was level again... LOL

 

I'm running 6112's up front and 5100's in the rear. Have the lean most pronounced on a full tank... but I feel that I always see it. Did you shim both the front and rear driver side?

 

I'm no suspension expert but I've been reading and learning a lot as I research the kit I will eventually go with.
The Toyota lean is obviously a thing, some have it worse than others, and as explained previously, Toyota even uses two different springs left and right to compensate in stock form. Going aftermarket removes that compensation and the condition present itself even worse.

For those with true fully adjustable coilovers, I think its probably fine to level the truck side to side with the spring perch adjustment/adding preload... to a certain extent. Adding preload by moving the spring perch up the shock body does not affect the spring rate, so your ride should feel the same on each side, initially. However, by doing this you are also changing the available travel of the shock, so too much difference left vs. right side could be a bad thing. You are also changing "where" in the shock's travel the truck is riding at your desired height, which, depending on the valving of the shock could create a different feel at the same level of compression or droop between the two sides. I imagine a 1/2" adjustment would not be felt by 99% of us out there. Going to an inch or more difference between the two sides may start to become an issue since you're essentially shortening the available travel on one side, or increasing it on the other to get to even.

For those with the circlip type setups, you wouldn't want to set one side on position 2 and the other on position 3 to even the truck out. You'd probably be much better off using a shim on the low side to compensate for the lean. That way your shock/spring assemblies are set the same and you'll get a more consistent feel left and right. That theory should apply to fully adjustable setups, however I think a little difference between the two sides is probably fine. If you need too much adjustment to get to even I'd probably look at using a shim on the low side to keep the coilovers as close to the same setup as possible. If you have 3/4" to make up, maybe consider a 1/4" spacer to get a 1/2" of that back and make the rest up with the coilover adjustment to fine tune the height.

The more I look at this stuff the more I think I'm leaning towards a fully adjustable coilover setup. It just gives you way more options and the ability to really dial in your setup. The circlip types are obviously limited to preset heights, and you may get it close, but may never get to perfect, even with shims.

These are just my ramblings, so if I'm off base here I'm all ears.

 

I have the Bilstien 5100 ultimate kit installed. It had 1/2” of lean out of the box. I just cranked the drivers side up about 3 turns. This raised the drivers side by 5/8” and the passengers side by 1/8”.

 

I want to post here to correct some misunderstandings, but I don't want to type so much...

 

Glad to hear this. I'm thinking of doing exact same. I have about 1/3 inch lean stock. Still like your 6112s? Pics?

 

Sorry for the late reply. I haven’t been on in a while! I had them for about 20k miles and really liked them. Only thing I wish was different is my tire and wheel setup. I just bought a 2019 crewmax and will definitely be going with 18’s. Not sure if I’m going to go with 6112/5160s or go all out on a set of kings/foxs.

 

Looks good. I agree: 17s or 18s are the way to go. Such a nice ride with all that extra tire between the wheel and the road, and I like the way they look.

I see you're a fellow kayak angler. Tight lines.

 

Great info guys, The Tundra is not the only vehicle with driver side lean or any lean for that matter, We've been car builders since the mid 90s and have designed all kinds of correction parts helping us dial in stance or to help with weight distribution. the tundra is a great example of unbalanced weight distribution F/R and L/R. Shims allow us to add correction without adding preload essentially tricking the coilover. There ARE limitations on how far we can go before you're no longer in the center line of stroke. This is what a leveling spacer does, pushing the assembly down so far we have too much up travel and nearly no down travel. Hope this helps.

https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...ilder-strut-coilover-shim-provides-50-of-lift

 

It doesnt help that Toyota placed the gas tank and battery on the drivers side

I'm sure there are reasons to that choice, but we carry a considerable amount of weight on one side compared to the other.

 

Spy pics show the 2022 gas tank is on the passenger side and the exhaust runs drivers side. (and a coil spring rear suspension)

 

Supposedly rear coils too, I may have misread that, but heres hoping. Not like it matters since I'll keep my V8.

 

Same. I don’t see the smaller displacement forced induction engines making it 300k trouble-free miles before EVs take over.

 

I must be old school cause honestly I wouldnt care if they did. I've got quite the ear, can pick out cars and trucks by exhaust note alone and everytime I've heard a 2nd Gen Raptor take off I swear its my old 3rd Gen Tacoma.

Not something I'd like to listen to everyday, again.

 

No worries - Ford pumps fake exhaust audio into the cab so it’s only everyone outside the truck that has to suffer.

 

Oh, it gets worse then.

 

I have a full 1” lean, rear only on a stock TRD Off Road. Just noticed it today and measured. Is it normal to only have it on the rear? Front seems level measuring from tire to fender... but the rear lean is still noticeable from the front.

 

The gas tank is closer to the rear axle than the front. But in my experience it just causes the whole drivers side to be about 1/2" lower.

 

Crazy, I have the 38 gallon, but it’s only half full. Will have to take another look after my next fill up.

 

The other thing is the rear axle isnt independent like the fronts, of course. If its on a slope of any sort the results will be more exaggerated than the fronts. I've been measuring mine like crazy over the last few weeks trying to get it all dialed in. If I parked in the parking lot behind my place the rear on the passenger side would be .25" higher than the driver side. Park it on the street in front of my house and now the driver side is .5" higher than the passenger side. Neither spots are perfectly level.

 

I thought I was seeing things until reading this thread. Was playing around with wrap on rear bumper end and took this picture. I thought my eyes were playing tricks.

 

Wow that is pretty noticeable, so much so I would bring to dealer. Maybe you have a bad leaf or something.