What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That's what worked for me anyways!

As I explained on the phone.

Hook up your bottle, and crack the bleeder.
Pump the brakes with the truck on, but keep an eye on your reservoir under the hood. If you run out of fluid you'll have to start over.

Each pump will push air out, and when the pedal returns to normal position it will suck fluid into the bleeder from the bottle.

I watched it on my watch through my phone so I knew when it was time to move to the next one.

https://youtu.be/7157T680aAw

Like so... this is my video above.

 

Also, I'll be using the same method to bleed the brakes on my new to me corolla.

Nothing is wrong with the brakes on it, but I want fresh fluid in the reservoir. It looks good there, but who knows what the fluid in the lines looks like.

 

Here you are maintaining your Corolla while mine has a zip tie and rag acting as the MC cap...

 

A cap can't be more than $10 new or even a junkyard cap if you can find one.

I just want it to last is all.

 

I've done some maintenance here and there but my '05 is definitely a battle tested beater. I agree with Empty's advice of doing the timing chain tensioner o-ring though, that was leaking on mine.

 

I'll have to youboob that one. All engine work no matter what engine intimidates me, but so did brake work before I started easing into it with rear drum removal, and painting. Etc...

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MopNmj_KPsY

I followed this guy, I think his Californian accent made it easier for me to follow. The main part of it is properly setting the tensioner after replacement other your timing may be off. Simple as turning the crank by hand.

 

I've skimmed about a minute of the video. Seems to be good quality, and informative based on subtitles because you can't hear a damn thing at work.

I'll watch more over next break, and add this post to my corolla thread if it's cool with you?

 

You could totally just sell me those Calipers. LOL

 

https://youtu.be/WBAs6w7HL6Q

oops, meant to put this in the lunch table thread.

 

You're not allowed to give up sir. That's my job.

 

This works, but it doesn't seem like your really getting rid of the old fluid in the lines, your just diluting it with new fluid before it gets sucked back in from the bottle.

 

Pinion depth is wrong.

I'd recommend setting up a solid pinion spacer while you're at it.

Lol. Or me... just sayin'.

 

I had a complete drain when I replaced my front and rear hoses with Wheelers braided stainless lines.

I suppose the lines still had some fluid in it, but the reservoir was completely empty when I filled it back up, and shot that video.

Edit: oh, I see you're talking about the corolla. Im Posting too much.

Yeah, I'll drain each line, and fill with new. Still have old fluid in the lines until I purge it out with new.

 

Already one step ahead of you

I had the solid spacer installed by the shop the second time I brought the diff to them.

I've done this method combined with a friend at the brake pedal. The amount of fluid that gets sucked back is minimal compared to the amount that gets pushed out with the pedal. After enough pumps, the old fluid will be in the bottle and it will just be the new fluid in the tubing that gets sucked up a little.

 

Didn't know this so thanks! Shame can't add food coloring to make easy recognition of old/new with items on hand.

 

Oh it's probably happening. You are welcome to them. I just looked back at old receipts and I've spent a fortune trying to make this work. I'm completely out of ideas as this point.

Between calipers, machining, pads, rotors, Budget brakes bleedingx2, new master cylinder, shims, and fluid I have over $650 in this god forsaken idea. If you just want the calipers I'll figure out a cheap price and throw them in a flat rate box. I've just got to find some 13WL's to throw on here.

 

IF you decide to sell the stuff yea I’m just after calipers. I’m planning on doing the swap over when I do rear discs with the sequoia master

 

When i did my brakes, i bled the system after replacing the hoses, and was doing the bottle method, and impatience caught up to me, so i pumped the pedal a couple times, and pushed too far. The mc piston got stuck, and the dead space between where the pedal sits and where the pushrod touched the piston was noticable. Felt like a 2 stage setup where no resistance met average resistance. I couldnt get any fluid to move at all, so i cobbled my hose into a plastic bottle fairly snug, and tried pushing fluid to the reservoir from the bleeder, and wasnt able to reverse flow without another bleeder open.
After some research and deciding i wanted a t100 MC and dual diaphragm booster, i decided id get everything working with stock parts before changing things, and am glad i did. The tundras brakes are 10x better than my titans brakes.

 

I'd double check their setup of it then. Given everything else was wrong...

 

Looking to you guys for some exhaust advice. My new 04 has no cats, not inspectable in my state, and the exhaust the last dude had put on (very recently) is obnoxiously loud.

COA1: Bother in law runs a small shop, says its going to be ~3K for a factory exhaust including cats. He does not upcharge me for parts.

COA2: Asked for a quote from an exhaust shop to add cats, O2 sensor bungs, and possible replace the muffler is it’s still to loud.

A quick check on Rock Auto looks like I can get non-OEM but ‘good’ parts for less than a grand. But since I’m in the desert for 6 more months that does not help me. Wife wants to drive it.

Thought, advice, or berating?

 

Any volume (size) you add to the exhaust is going to quiet and mellow the tone. Make a doodle of where the hangers are, take some measurements from where you can cut to the hangers, and find the largest muffler you can fit. Are the rear O2 sensors tied up somewhere?

 

The rear sensors are unplugged from the harness, I’ll have them put in bung’s behind the new cats.

So maybe ask the exhaust shop to put in another muffler, rather than cutting out the current one?

 

Depending on how rusty your area is, id look for a giant stock nuffler from something. Like a 6.2 chevy or something. but the stock muffler on my sequoia is 26”L x 12”w x 9” thick. And has a second muffler/resonator behind the axle.

the stock sequoia system is also a dual inlet muffler and the driver side crossover pipe is like 45* between the rear cat and muffler.

 

Is that exhaust shop able to do aftermarket cats and a quieter muffler? If that's possible, I would be looking that route with some rock auto parts to bring their labor time down.

 

next up is valve cover gaskets. Aside from the VC gaskets, are there any other gaskets ill need? Ive read its like a 6 hr job for stealerships, so what am i getting myself into? Link appreciated. Are the cam pulley covers a seperate gasket?

 

6 hours? It's not THAT bad. Just be careful with the bolts. 20 INCH lbs, not ft/lb.

 

It doesnt look that bad, dunno where i got that time from, but ill get some hoses just in case i crack one while trying to remove things.

 

Oh, and get you some wire or something to get everything up and out of the way. Makes it easier. Like this:

 

I dont have to pull the manifold do i? Maybe the dipstick.