Big 3/4 wire upgrade

so, i can take the original wire and connect direct to battery?

 

couple more questions. just a bit confused on your images and i want to make sure i connect everything correctly tomorrow.

in the first picture, at the small red dot, you have removed the cable. in the second picture, it looks like you've made a new cable to go to the battery, yes? is this the same gauge wire as your new cable to the alternator? the stock connector at that location is pretty small.

also, just to verify, you are now going alternator -> anl fuse -> battery. is the anl fuse necessary? i have one on the route to my amp but do i need one between the alternator and the battery?

i think i have everything dialed and still have plenty of red cable to make a short from the voltage regulator to the battery.

 

I did an upgraded wire there. Removed the factory one and replaced with 2/0

 

I know guys that go straight from alternator to battery, no fuse. I did a circuit breaker in mine because I also did an upgraded alternator (270a). It’s just another layer of protection.

 

thanks for the input. an alternator is on the list for me and i have plenty of wire left over. i’ll drop something in there.

nice job on your wiring.

 

one more question for you as i'm still trying to figure out how to make everything fit. the stock positive cable that has the L terminal connector on it, i believe it comes from the starter, where did you put that? that's the one that is really giving me the most issues fitment wise. i think getting a set of those flat battery terminals like yours will help as well.

 

I extended the factory starter wire so that I had room to wire it nicely. One of the two black wires you see on my positive terminal is it, the other black wire goes to the bottom of the fuse box. I believe that’s connected to the fusible link.

 

what's the best way to do that?

 

I went to a local electric supply store And picked up some butt splice connectors. I forget what gauge it was, I took a piece of the wire with me.

 

It looks like this, but you need a hydraulic crimping tool to use it

4 Ga. Butt Splice Terminals - (Pack of 10)

$36 4 Ga. Butt Splice Terminals - (Pack of 10)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NVBLGD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hIKWCbWE6KDJH

 

rad. thank you. that's perfect. i've got the crimp tool.

i haven't been to makaha in years but you're making me want to come over and buy you a few rounds of drinks.

 

Haha, All good man. Sadly I’m in California now . My family is still in Hawaii so we go back pretty often to visit.

 

Damn... That is just really clean.

 

Upgrading grounds is one of the first mods I do to any vehicle. Learned it the hard way with the older pontiacs and anything dodge lol. Didn’t know of anyone doing a kit so that’s pretty cool. I usually source marine grade wire though through west marine or online as it is typically tinned and decent copper is used.

 

So with the original system, the voltage regulator controls how many volts get sent to the battery. I've read 13.7-14v depending on engine bay temps.

What happens when you bypass this and go straight to the battery from the alternator?

How many volts will be sent then?

The reason I ask is due to this Northstar battery. You have to keep 14.1 to I think 14.8 volts going to it in order for them to warranty the battery. I bought this little jewel to make sure that happens.
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/297-mk4-adjustable-alternator-voltage-booster-2013/

To you guys that have done the big 3, have any of you checked to see how many volts your alternator puts out after bypassing the voltage regulator?

If not, could I ask one of you to check for me?

Edit: I may be missing the concept here. So after your power from alt to battery, you then run a smaller wire from the battery to the voltage regulator? Keeping the voltage regulator and fuse in the loop?
Yep, maybe I better stop reading and go to sleep.

 

wow thats a huge difference thanks for the writeup

 

Well done Joe and LEKS.

 

Quick question, does the NEW positive wire fr the alternator have to hook up to the fuse voltage regulator (fusebox)? It cannot go direct to the positive battery post?

 

If you are going through all this trouble for better sound, why use dielectric grease? You do know that it is non conductive, should of used this instead... you can get it on Amazon. I use it for all my electrical connections. Use a toothpick or q tip...its messy shit
MG Chemicals -

$35 846-80G Carbon Conductive Grease, 80g Tube

846-80G Carbon Conductive Grease, 80g Tube

 

Yes it can go directly to the battery post

 

I don't know if you read my new post (Big3/4 gone wrong) shit was crazy!...but everything is fine now...

 

No, I have not read your post. I still have a positive going back into the fuse box

 

Yes I saw that, did you have to take the whole fusebox,? To put your new cables in?

 

Dielectrical grease is used for the properties of corrosion prevention and it is what I had. It is/was not used because there was a weak connection.

 

No, I did not have to take out the fuse box

 

My battery gauge still moving while bass hits, any idea? New battery? Dual?

 

My voltage fluctuates as well. Just make the decision to meet your system demands

 

I have the factory 150 amp, I had one agm battery, If I run a wire directly from the alternator to battery is that going to keep the voltage at 14 instead of the 13.3 on average? I just added a second battery. by the way, what alternator is that?

 

Capacitor will fix that

 

Dual battery, if you don't have enough power now to juice up your amp, you will have enough net power to keep up with the discharging and charging of the capacitor in time to keep up with the amp's demand. I run three amps with the factory alternator, I added an agm battery last year and could barely keep up with two amps. I just added a second agm battery and everything is working so much better. When I have wife and kids in the car I don't crank up the stereo therefore more charging for the second battery, when Daddy is alone, daddy is going to burn some power, then the cycle starts again. Longer trips longer charging periods.