What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The passenger side specs are odd. Not sure why they are so different. I'd get it readjusted.

 

Drove my 2003 Tundra 262 miles yesterday exploring Arizona! Hit 261k miles on it, still runs like a gem! Bought it new, original owner. Wouldn’t trade it for anything!

 

I haven't seen anybody use those but I have looked them over before. For my truck they wouldn't work.

Those would only work with SPC arms or long travel kits with hiem joints on the pivots. Maybe JBA arms, I'm not sure if those have adjustable ball joints.

 

I'd take it back and have them fix it. Tell them the specs you want. 2.5 Caster, .04 of toe (each side) camber .25

 

I've already walked away, and said thanks. It's on me now.

I'm not going to go back and act like a Karen "I changed my mind after the fact. I want it redone."

I'll see what the other shop has to say sometime soon. For now, it's bed time. Up in 4 hours.

 

‘Dash beeper’ didnt get any search results. Anyone know the best way to unplug it on an ‘02?

 

The beeper that activates when your door is open and key is in ignition?

 

Yessir

 

I don't have pictures but there should be a plug you can simply disconnect on the ignition assembly. You'll have to remove the lower dash assembly around it/ under steering wheel to access it.

 

I dont like wiggling on this dash. Doing it, but i dont like it. It kinds sounds like the beeper might be in the steering column?

i got the bottom column plastic cover off, and decided going any deeper was a hard no. Unplugged the door button switch. Doesnt bug me at all that the lights dont come on when i open the door.

tied a fish wire to the plug so it can be easily retrieved.


whats this yellow clip attached to?
Gonna clean it up since ive got it open.

https://youtu.be/CwGrC0KicSo

 

I don't see anything wrong with taking it back to the shop and asking them to get it right. Just say you studied the numbers a bit more, and what they mean, and would like it in spec. You paid them a lot of money and they didn't do it right.

If you ask nice, that doesn't make you a Darren(male Karen). I took my truck back to Meineke 3 times because they couldn't get the alignment right. They were cool about it. I found out later they were doing it by hand, no machine. I'll never go there for an alignment again.

 

Yup take it back. Say you aren't happy with how it drove. Any good shop should redo it for no charge.

 

I agree with Erik there.

 

Solution achieved! If my front dome lights came on with the doors I probably would've done that too. The bottom part of my dash is actually off right now so I'll take a picture of the connection later for anyone that wants to do this.

 

I paid a local shop for an alignment after replacing my LCA bushings. They quoted me $90 and then charged me $140. It was clearly out of spec when I drove it and ended up going to my local yota stealership. They charged my $60 and gave me a before and after showing me how out of spec the other shop left mine.

 

Everytime you say that I think of this:

 

Literally the only justification i have of wanting a coastal rear bumper/spare tire mount. But the more i look at tires, the more excuse i have for steelie 17’s

 

@Tundra2

They should have evened up the caster. You've already replaced the cams and anti-siezed them iirc. No reason not too.

I run 2.6-2.8 caster, which is higher than stock. This gives a little more steering feel and feedback. Makes the truck steering a little more car like. .2-.3 caster or camber difference side to side isn't a problem but anything more than .5 is too much, as it'll usually cause a mild pull.

Stock specs make the steering too 'light' and vague IMO.

 

Only worth while if running adjustable upper arms (&/or lowers) and you wheel hard enough to make them come loose.

In which case you may want to tow your rig lol.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I just want it to be right, and I think you're right on the mild pull. I feelt it.


All of the front end components except the knuckle/spindle, and inner tie rods have about 9,000 miles on them. I installed SPC upper control arms in December.

Went to the schmancy alignment place, and had them do the whole smeal back then. Raben said they wouldn't touch the upper control arm to adjust the camber.

 

I ran my own version of those. I adjust caster and camber with my upper arms now. Kinda hard to see but I welded the slot closed with some moon kinda shaped filler pieces and did some weld washers over that. Same concept more or less.

 

No problem.

Were they scared? They shouldn't need to unless there are other things out of whack but saying up front they won't touch them...

If I had uppers I'd use them to bring a little more caster and keep my wheels a little more centered in the wheel wells. If lifted it'll help even more.


One of the more unique chassis I've worked on. C5 vette with coilovers and a jeep body. Track use only race car.




Wide body viper:


Oldschools:

 

Sick rides!

 

63 Impala SS

 

I noticed the steel brake line that runs into my caliper had a leaking fitting. I tightened it and it started leaking worse. I ended up buying a new line from the dealership and it's installed now. Feels good to not have leaking brakes.

While under my truck, I looked at my weeping front differential and noticed the leak isn't coming from the housing itself, but from the breather. Glad to know It's not the differential housing that's leaking. Anyone have tips on how to get to that breather without dropping the entire diff? Or am I SOL?

 

Holy sheet I forgot there was one there! Better go check on mine.

 

Good eye.

 

Around here, 95% of the operators are clueless about the CAMM alignment software that make it easy to get you to the caster and camber of your choice. Majority of them just know the old school way of just “good enough” and couldn’t care less about learning anything new. That’s been my experience.

 

Unless this is a dash squeak (because I'm already going to look there) I'll paypal anyone $20 who can help me identify this, and help me fix it.

Squeak means stuff loose, and I don't like it.

First video is with my hand resting on my cup. Second video is me holding my phone/arm off the arm rest (to attempt to eliminate extra cab noise/vibes coming through my hand to microphone.)

https://youtu.be/7b5HxjWRHTk
https://youtu.be/FNP4QfGCojs

I hear it when I drive over small bumps. I hear it when I start the truck, or shut the doors. I hear it inside, and outside the truck. I'm pretty much at a loss using mental experiments to find it.

 

Its oldtruckitis. Turn some music up and it’ll go away. Lol. But my sequoia has cardstock stuffed into every crevice in the dash. Now all my squeaks and rattles are coming from everywhere else.

Does it squeak if you bounce the suspension while stationary?