What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Its really weird to see another truck thats identical to yours huh? When I helped out @jImmegart with his truck I kept getting deja vu. I kept remembering this scene.

 

I’m tempted to buy the URD replacement pump action for mine, that comes with a external filter, from a local cat in the 4runner club(it’s for a 2010+ runner, but trying to confirm from urd it will work w my truck) for 100$. Whenever you guys do yours I’ll be watching closely

 

Doing some touch up under the truck. Painted the new muffler and pipe one more time. Touched up some rust on my leaf springs and rear axle. Plus a few dashes of Fluid Film here and there.
Looks like one more coat might be needed later.

 

Yeah. The 2002 comes with an external filter already and the Denso OEM Pump costs around $130 with all the shtuff. Not sure of the URd specs and what it would do extra in terms of performance, but you know what you are doing. Only reason I’m doing mine is from reviews with Pumps around the same mileage.

There is a Fuel Pressure Test of which I don’t possess the tool. Must be the test they did on Blurrys. Here is the DMM Ohms Spec Test for the 2002 Fuel Pump once its removed. I’ll be doing this for grins at that point.

 

Nice, yeah I’m doing it so I can then have a external filter to replace at my Leisure. I’m not doing it so much for the pump performance, more so the ease of filter replacement. Have you looked into any fuel pressure testing gauges? I’ve seen the one everyone links that goes onto/tween the front banjo fitting, but the one I watched my mechanic friend use; basically unclips the fuel line back near the rear banjo(but not actually the banjo fitting itself) and basically adds a loop/t system that goes to a gauge and then back to the fuel rail.

 

I haven’t and probably won’t by a Gauge as a New Pump will keep things Spec. A Filter is a good idea for your year as it doesn’t have one. Mine was a little gunky with 30k on it. The little internal tank sock seems to catch big stuff but mostly look ok from pictures I’ve seen.

I had an old Honda with an easily changed filter near the tank. I’d change it every 10k miles or so. It was clear plastic and you could observe the gnar gnar in it with a quick glance. Two spring clamps held the hose an made for an easy swap.

 

https://www.yotashop.com/toyota-off-road-vehicle-differential-breather-extension-kit-1012/

Browsing old links. Found this again. Someone here may need.

 

Thats a good deal. I acquired all my own individual parts and it was like $30 a few years ago. Did the 5’ up to the Fuel Door backside. Might try to get it inside the Fuel Door Cavity at some point.

 

Prepped and painted my brake drums. I Added KSP 1.25 spacers Monday. Went to double check the torque as stated in the manual and when removing the front right wheel one of the studs on the spacer broke. Now I need a new lug nut. Grr. Off they come and back to Amazon. Too bad as I really liked the way it looked with them. Maybe I’ll try the spider trax brand if they ever go on sale.

 

SpiderTrax uses Crome Moly steel versus the KSP Pot Metal? on their studs. I like the look of the Spacer too, but its Scary Larry!

 

@FrenchToasty I've inquired about a fuel pressure test in the past on TS and was told you need the right banjo bolt adapter for the fuel rail. Also, autozone will supposedly loan out the tool to you with the correct 12mm x Banjo bolt fitting for the fuel rail.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...er/oemtools-fuel-pressure-test-kit/913437_0_0

 

I dare someone to find my twin truck!

 

They were stamped 10.9, but wasn’t to hard to break. The sad part is I actually followed the directions and didn’t use an impact at all. All by hand and torqued to spec.

I had bought the spidertrax and returned because I thought I was getting a set of 4, they’re flipping expensive.

I returned those and bought the ksp and another brand, the ksp looked much better, and had generally favorable reviews.

live and learn

 

Everyone swears by the Spiders. I bought some Lug Extender Nuts along with 4 of those High Dolla Blue Spacers. The ET Nut bottomed out without slipping down into the bore so I said screw it. Went to Plan B and looked at the way the Provided Nuts from Spiders wobbled around with limited contact on the Lug and said foughetaboutit! Lots of great reviews, but Spacers aren’t for me.

 

Well finally got the wheels/tires mounted and installed. No rubbing. I think they stick out just about the exact same. Either way they stick out enough for me that I don't want to run the spacers I have so now I gotta try and recoup my money on them.
In case anyone cares, I went from a:
20x9 -12mm offset
BFG A/T K02 275/60
86.5lbs Load C (6 ply)

to
17x8 0mm offset
Kenda Klever R/T 285/70
87.5lbs Load E (10 ply)

I'm really happy with the look. Would have rather had 6 ply tires since I really don't need to 10 but it does stiffen up body roll a bit so that's nice.

 

@CodyP that looks so much better. You can't even see black wheels from more than a few feet away. It just blends in with the tire. Good choice.

 

wheels/tires look great. Where’d you get those mirrors?

 

Man you can have my stock carpet mats if you want them.

 

Got hold of the truck with some more raptor liner...

 

Installed a low profile single row 31" Nilight light bar in the front bumper.



Measured the actual amperage draw of the light bar with the truck running and it pulls only 6.3 amps so I didn't use a relay, ran it directly to the 10 amp rated switch with an inline fuse.

 

Daylight and phone camera does it no justice, but installed LED reverse lights. That and I got a better angle on the incandescent. By eye it appears significantly brighter.




Also went by my old neighbors house and borrowed his manual lathe to make a higher flowing fitting for my trans fluid filler.

Left to right: original, modified and custom.

 

Nice! Perfect fit in that bumper slot.
(the camera adds 10lbs to you calves)

 

Dammit, I've lost 10lbs over the last 30 days, all for nuthin'. Guess I'll go make a sammich.

 

@rock climber @Professional Hand Model @CodyP @2006 Tundra AC

I towed 150 miles over the weekend. I estimate with the shell and stuff in the bed, around 500 pound and maybe 400 pounds of passengers and dogs in the cab. I am still a bit weak on weight distribution with the trailer but the springs still did great. I measured after we pulled into camp and I was right 21.5 in the front and back. To get this dialed in properly I am going to have to upgrade the spring bars on my hitch. My truck no longer feels like a turd when I go adventuring. I still have plenty of suspension travel with this setup.

Unhitched, things went back up to 22 3/4.

I put a tailgate spring bar in when I got to camp. I bought a returned one for $17. AMAZING.

 

Oh please. Tell me more and why I should pay you for one of thsse

 

It's the piece that goes between the plastic tube that sits inside the bottle and the hose.


In the bottom left corner of this photo, where the clear hose meets the black threaded cap is where it sits.



It goes from the original 1/8" or so I.D., to a 7/32" I.D. Which is the same as the I.D. of the inline ball valve I used.

I haven't even tried it yet, if it's too fast I may have to go back to the modified one lol.

 

Oh damn. I thought it was for the transmission filter. DOH.

 

Took her for a walk today to Walmart.

 

Forum dyslexia. Gets all of us lol.