What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

He should do a semi-slow mode drive through the country roads of his with a wide angle. Kinda like my Foreign Land Kumbyaya Mediation Vids with Babbling Brookes, Peaceful Birds and Chirping Insects. Mount the Camera to the front bar and overlay Mooing Cows and Chickens and such during daylight hours.

 

Only if it involves super slo-mo when he hits a turkey .

Last time I hit a bird on the highway doing 70, that thing exploded in a ball of feathers when it hit the windshield.

 

I almost went mishimoto. But I’m super happy with my custom radiator and it’s built in trans cooler.. want to wire in a sequoia condenser fan too..

 

https://youtu.be/pmeVwYojB-s?t=3m38s

 

i love this song

 

My radiator is solid bit it's looking pretty rough. I want to have a game plan ahead of time. Didn't you come across a good option for a double cab? I would like a cooling system upgrade. I tow a lot.

 

CSF makes a double cab radiator. it looked great other than not fitting my truck.

they also make a slightly larger trans cooler too

 

So awhile back the Tundra had a leaking rear diff which I fixed, only to have another leak develop. Turned out I had a clogged breather, fixed that & fixed my leaks. Actually I was lucky not to blow a seal & ruin the brakes.
Well I had the Tacoma in for a new oil pan. Got it back & had a new oil leak. Took it back &.... Turns out my front diff breather was clogged forcing oil out a pin hole on the front diff. Breather fixed, pin hole fixed. Told him to check the rear breather, cause I'm seeing a pattern. Next time the Tundra is in, front breather function is getting checked.

Guess about 200k is the magic breather clogging number in this region.
Who knew you were supposed to check those? (Other than everyone else on this list....)

 

do yourself a favor. breather extension and then use a fuel filter so it can freely breath in and out.

 

If you do have to sell?? That’s straight crazy talk bud. I was followin along and gotta say, you did above and beyond what I, as well as most others here, and probably 95% of the shops out there would ever do in rebuilding an engine. Frikkin immaculate work. And bein such a youngster. You get an attaboy for sure. Anyways, it’s gotta be minor, you already did all the major work. But...,..... if you do decide to throw in the towel and sell- I got first dibs. Haha

 

The front breathers on the 2002 are located in the engine bay just below the fuse box area region. I swirl mine whenever I get a chance.

 

Any suggestions for an OEM TB/WP kit? Truck is going through coolant and I have a big ring of fluid around the water pump so time to change (per records last was 170k and I’m at 220k).

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,TKT021,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759

 

Perfect, I knew I read somewhere there was an all inclusive kit but couldn’t remember what site. Cheaper than I thought too.

 

I’m excited to see my results. I have noticed trans temps creeped up a bit as well. For $400 it’s hard to beat. I would’ve ordered a cold case, but they’re “coming soon” and didn’t respond to my emails.

 

Alright guys, shop just got back to me with an ouchie $1700 quote to replace the fuel pump, they said it's whirring and only getting 10psi. No way. It worked just fine before the rebuild, the in-line (not internal) filter is new, and injectors are new; I'm wondering if the internal filter or pump itself got clogged from congealed gas (without stabilizer) sitting in the tank for half a year.

Has anyone replaced a fuel pump on here? Even with the OEM part at $250 and towing bill $150, it'd still be way cheaper for me to replace the pump, filter, and bushing myself. I believe that's a job I could do. Instead of dropping the tank and having to remove driveline stuff and deal with tight clearances, I would cut an "access door" into the bed, either square or with a big hole saw, like some Chevy Astro owners do as seen in this video. I don't care about cutting holes in my truck. And I can't take the bed off without a forklift because it is permanently setup with a ladder rack and shell.

Let me know if the hole would be a feasible solution given the pump's placement, or if you even think the pump is bad at all! I asked them if they clear out the lines and they only will if they do the replacement.

ALSO, whoever guessed that a ground was missing, you were right---there was one not connected at the cylinder head. $150 mistake and I'm not sure how I missed that but oh well.

 

Geeze. That shop is high. Drop the tank with a jack and replace that pump yourself. It will be a breeze compared to what you've done already. PHM posted some good pictures recently showing what has to be disconnected before you lower the tank.

Here are the pictures he posted.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-884#post-2146616

Just to be clear, I have no idea if that's really your issue but I know I wouldn't pay them $1,700 to replace the fuel pump.

 

I'd invite a couple friends for pizza and have them help lift the bed off before I cut a hole.

 

I'll tow it for you for free. Last year my fuel pump went out and I was in a rush so I paid a local shop to replace it and the total with pump was $550.

 

Why not cut a hole? My bed is not meant to come off after the camper mods I've done. Originally its weight was probably 500lbs, plus 200lb ladder rack, plus 100lb shell, plus the weight of the plywood floor and furring strips I've adhered to the shell. I'd also have to remove the passthrough I built as well as find the bed bolts and cut a few holes in the vinyl floor to access those. Possible to do, probably not happening.

 

Thanks for your thoughtful offer. How about I give you the $150 that I would've paid? Rather that go to another Tundra member than a towing company. I'll message you for details.

 

I would only cut a hole in a perfectly good bed as a last resort. Dropping the tank with a floor jack shouldn't be that difficult. Plus, how would you know where to cut?

 

I'm with you on this. And PHM's post only shows how to remove the pump connector. Real useful though!

The bed is not all that perfect, it has some low spots from the previous owner dumping heavy stuff as well as some other little holes I plugged up. I see the access door as a useful mod in this situation unless it's right in the middle of the bed. I could measure and/or drill a small pilot hole to see where it ends up.

 

On the plus side it means you did the engine rebuild correctly!

 

I don't see it as being bad gas. The gas in my truck is at least 9 months old. I've also had cars sit for a year and start up just fine. I also don't see how it could be the pump if it worked before. Did the wiring from the resistor thing get put back on?

 

You’ll still need to drop the tank the way the Pump is positioned just enough under the cab. I’ve read a few guys remove the bed only still to have to drop the tank. Its easy work to drop the tank. I’ve disconnected everything (hoses, wires, etc.) in a dry run. Even loosened the 2 bolts in prep and oiled/feather dust them. Hard part was the clip disconnect which I did with it tight up on the truck. Used a folded up blanket to raise my position and a padded stool for my headrest as it was an 1.5 hour ordeal figuring out the Arm Reach No Look Mojo. Now I could do it in 15 minutes as I’ve got the proper tool technique set up

My plan is put a jack under tank with some ratchet straps. Loosen tank bolts slowly (they are long!) and leverage/balance the tank with the ratchet straps on the Jack Fulcrum in a slow decent. My Recalled Gas Tank Straps (2011) are brand new looking so I don’t foresee any gnar gnar.

Denso Fuel Pump was $124 on a site. Need new gasket ($8) and Fuel Pump Bushing/Pad ($2). See build page for pics of Part #’s.

 

See how the Pump is under the cab? No way to pull the Long Pump Assy Out after unbolting the Pump Cover.

 

I forgot you had all that honestly. Since your pump is still running albeit poorly according to the shop. Unhook the fuel line at the filter, jump the pump at the relay, and drain it down.

You may actually just want to try jumping the resistor under the hood and see if the truck runs that way.

 

If you cut a hole... do it with the bed off... it’s stupid easy to light yourself up because you nicked the wrong thing under the bed..

 

ohhh.....good point residentmechanic