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Info on BxFx OBD Dongle Engine Gauges Monitoring 1st Gen Only

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Professional Hand Model, Aug 14, 2020.

  1. Mar 16, 2021 at 1:30 PM
    #91
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Yeah. Derale Valve giving consistent readings about 15° warmer than usual. It was cold (40°) here this morning. The trans fluid temp rose faster than normal (not rocket fast but faster) and hovered around 135-140° with the Valve. Usually, temps would be 120°+/- without valve in similar driving.

    Conclusion for winter: Its doing as it should providing warmer fluid and at a faster rate while maintaining said temps.

    Next report is in Summer Heat.
     
    SouthPaw likes this.
  2. Mar 16, 2021 at 3:47 PM
    #92
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I saw you on Big Guurrll. :rofl:


    Don’t forget it was only me telling you here back last year that your Hayden would be too cool without the Derale Bypass. :thumbsup: Glad you got it.

    Nah. It was Empty Lord with his knowledge. That Cooler Thread really was a good one.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/upgraded-trans-cooler.48516/page-2

    upload_2021-3-16_18-42-6.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
    speedtre and SouthPaw[QUOTED] like this.
  3. Mar 16, 2021 at 5:14 PM
    #93
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    o_O - I need to quit leaving Amazon reviews... lol

    Honestly, I still think think you could not use one and not have any issues. I drove for awhile with out it in colder temps in the mountains for work and it still maintained 140 in cold weather. When I did notice a difference was the mounting position of the cooler.

    Originally I had both fitting pointed down right behind where the factory cooler went. Temps fluctuated and didn’t seem to hold steady. It would get hotter, than cool, hotter, warm, cool, etc. After talking to Hayden they informed the mounting position was important. Either sideways or fitting pointed up are the preferred methods. Either what for what it costs and how easy it is to install, you are better off with it. Just make sure to do them together so only have to do this job once.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
  4. Mar 18, 2021 at 1:33 PM
    #94
    bassman417

    bassman417 "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    i have left mine plugged in since day one and have not seen any issues with battery drain. what is your voltage reading when it does start up? im thinking something else is draining it.
     
  5. Mar 18, 2021 at 4:28 PM
    #95
    Baller

    Baller New Member

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    Same.
     
  6. Mar 18, 2021 at 8:50 PM
    #96
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    I’ll check tomorrow to see what it reads.
     
  7. Mar 19, 2021 at 9:14 AM
    #97
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    It’s been sitting since Sunday last week. I started it yesterday for 30 seconds to move it and it’s sat since. It got pretty chilly last night and everything was frosted over. Torque gauge was showing between 11.5-11.8v with just the key on.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Mar 19, 2021 at 9:22 AM
    #98
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Yeah. Something is awry.
     
  9. Mar 19, 2021 at 11:37 AM
    #99
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Does this make any sense? Referencing my post earlier about what the torque I was displaying, I took my fluke and measured the volts 12.29v with the cables connected and 12.32v with the negative cable disconnected.
    [​IMG]

    I followed this guide HERE here and my readings were 0amps meaning no draw? If you don’t want to read the article, it’s stating to disconnect the negative battery terminal, take your multimeter and set it to amps, put one lead on the negative battery cable and one on the negative battery post to see how many amps passing through.
     
  10. Mar 19, 2021 at 12:10 PM
    #100
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Thats about what mine reads when doing the same test on cold no start been sitting a day or two using Multimeter.
     
  11. Mar 19, 2021 at 12:13 PM
    #101
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Also, was your truck started in that Gauge picture earlier above? My awry comment was based on it looking low when running. Maybe I assumed wrongly.
     
  12. Mar 19, 2021 at 12:33 PM
    #102
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Engine was off, key on. I’m starting to think it’s a bad battery again. I don’t have faith in the NAPA batteries like I used to. Here is a video of the volts when starting:
    https://youtube.com/shorts/2-aX2hReaEA
     
  13. Mar 19, 2021 at 1:14 PM
    #103
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Yeah. Been reading more and more about batteries not lasting as long and also them failing early right after install. I’ve been with Bosch for 2 batteries now.

    Bought the first one based on reviews. Got the second one free as their Pro-Ration Warranty is the best around. Got the second battery for free after 36 month plus 3 weeks rated failure. Guy says next one is free too if the battery expires close to/or right after the month rating. Mine always die right at the rating.
     
  14. Mar 21, 2021 at 12:12 AM
    #104
    bassman417

    bassman417 "Tundra Time". My favorite time of day...

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    Nice video there. definately get another battery, somewhere else....
     
  15. Apr 8, 2021 at 5:06 PM
    #105
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Dongle has been a success so far. Toying with some new Dash Instruments. Had both Rear o2 Sensors warn of pending codes at the same time last week. Reset them and no return Codes with over a 100 miles driven.

    Also, my Transmission Temp Dial has been sticky on two occasions. An unplug and replug has reset that dial for correction.
     
  16. Apr 8, 2021 at 6:24 PM
    #106
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    The transmission dial is the only one I’ve had issues with as well. I’ve noticed that if I restart the app, it works again. Mine have a little green indicator on each dial and when it’s flashing, it’s good to go.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2021
  17. Apr 9, 2021 at 5:54 AM
    #107
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 270k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 Cement Grey 75k miles
    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    I have a different meter, but on mine you have to switch the where the leads plug in to the meter. Has three plug ins. Mine had to be wired like this with the red and black leads to measure amperage like the writing suggests at the bottom. Otherwise it just reads zero.

    meter.jpg
     
  18. Apr 9, 2021 at 8:51 AM
    #108
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Mines the same. It has way more features than I’ll ever need but it was free from work so I’ll use it as much as I can lol.
     
  19. Apr 9, 2021 at 12:54 PM
    #109
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    That picture is of yours, the arrows point to where the red and black lead should be attached in order to be able to measure current flow
     
  20. Apr 9, 2021 at 1:38 PM
    #110
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Yup, I had them setup that way.
     
  21. Apr 9, 2021 at 1:47 PM
    #111
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    shouldn't be zero. Should be 0.0, something. There are some things drawing current even when the vehicle is off. Mine reads 0.03 amps with the truck off. Clock, Radio memory etc.
     
    BubbaW likes this.
  22. Apr 9, 2021 at 3:28 PM
    #112
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Won't say it's normal or not normal but 30 milli amps is kewl for our 1st gen....under 50 milli amps is acceptable....>100 milli amps and I'd be looking for that culprit !

    Flukes are the bomb, especially if you borrowed it from Uncle Sam and never took it back. After 40 years, perhaps that was my retirement watch
    :yes:
     
    Lil Steve likes this.
  23. Apr 15, 2021 at 5:49 PM
    #113
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    Update:
    So I’ve been leaving the dongle unplugged when I’m not using the truck and no issues since, starts right up. I did notice the last couple of times driving that my alternator is spiking? My torque is registering the highest reading at almost 18v. It’s only been driven once a week right now. Is that normal?

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Apr 16, 2021 at 12:16 PM
    #114
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Not normal. If your dash gauge is also spiking then maybe its a bad alternator? One of the signs is spikes before giving up the ghost.
     
  25. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:57 PM
    #115
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    I haven’t been able to watch the dash long enough to see when it is spiking but I’ll keep an eye on it.
     
  26. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:42 PM
    #116
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Voltage regulator is trying to compensate for seeing low voltage, usually a bad 'sense' wire, corroded and/or broken. Sometimes it's the voltage regulator itself (they are built into the alternator but can be replaced).
     
  27. May 4, 2021 at 10:23 AM
    #117
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    So I’m back and square one. I was gone in Maui for a couple of weeks and when I got back, it was dead as a door nail. I jumped it and it ran fine after. I figured I’d do the multimeter test and it was still showing zero. I did some more diagnosing and long story short, the fuse inside my fluke meter was blown, hence why it was always showing zero on the previous tests. I replaced the fuse and this is what it is displaying:

    I had the battery tested and it showed good but needs a charge. It’s displaying 12.27v.
    [​IMG]

    From my little knowledge on this, I believe this is well below spec, correct? It’s not even pulling 0.5 amps (0.000052 amps to be exact).
    [​IMG]


    I did notice that voltage meter seems to spike when it is cold a couple of times but once engine temps are good, it levels out. I’m guessing my alternator is on its way out?
     
  28. May 4, 2021 at 11:53 AM
    #118
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model [OP] A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  29. May 4, 2021 at 12:24 PM
    #119
    SouthPaw

    SouthPaw The headlight guy

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    I think I’m another path. I got the alternator tested two times today at different stores and it all tested good.

    I did some more draw testing and I am getting a significant drain from the dome light circuit. The dome lights are off but it also operates the radio which is off as well but still drawing power. After some research, I may be victim to a leaky windshield. It’s been raining the last few days but I can’t tell if the carpet is wet but it is defintely discolored like it has been at one point. Pulling the cowl off here shortly.
     
  30. May 4, 2021 at 12:50 PM
    #120
    tyler-brown

    tyler-brown New Member

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    5" tuff country lift 2.5" Eibach front coil overs SPC upper control arms 33x12.5's JBA long tubes Jba mid pipes Jba full exhaust & muffler Dirty deeds 12 hole injectors Front hitch receiver
    Hey guys,
    Before I buy the veepeak and download the app and pay for it. I'm assuming reading any CELs is possible. Is resetting possible as well with this? Thanks
     

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