Info on BxFx OBD Dongle Engine Gauges Monitoring 1st Gen Only

Yeah. Derale Valve giving consistent readings about 15° warmer than usual. It was cold (40°) here this morning. The trans fluid temp rose faster than normal (not rocket fast but faster) and hovered around 135-140° with the Valve. Usually, temps would be 120°+/- without valve in similar driving.

Conclusion for winter: Its doing as it should providing warmer fluid and at a faster rate while maintaining said temps.

Next report is in Summer Heat.

 

I saw you on Big Guurrll.


Don’t forget it was only me telling you here back last year that your Hayden would be too cool without the Derale Bypass. Glad you got it.

Nah. It was Empty Lord with his knowledge. That Cooler Thread really was a good one.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/upgraded-trans-cooler.48516/page-2

 

- I need to quit leaving Amazon reviews... lol

Honestly, I still think think you could not use one and not have any issues. I drove for awhile with out it in colder temps in the mountains for work and it still maintained 140 in cold weather. When I did notice a difference was the mounting position of the cooler.

Originally I had both fitting pointed down right behind where the factory cooler went. Temps fluctuated and didn’t seem to hold steady. It would get hotter, than cool, hotter, warm, cool, etc. After talking to Hayden they informed the mounting position was important. Either sideways or fitting pointed up are the preferred methods. Either what for what it costs and how easy it is to install, you are better off with it. Just make sure to do them together so only have to do this job once.

 

i have left mine plugged in since day one and have not seen any issues with battery drain. what is your voltage reading when it does start up? im thinking something else is draining it.

 

Same.

 

I’ll check tomorrow to see what it reads.

 

It’s been sitting since Sunday last week. I started it yesterday for 30 seconds to move it and it’s sat since. It got pretty chilly last night and everything was frosted over. Torque gauge was showing between 11.5-11.8v with just the key on.

 

Yeah. Something is awry.

 

Does this make any sense? Referencing my post earlier about what the torque I was displaying, I took my fluke and measured the volts 12.29v with the cables connected and 12.32v with the negative cable disconnected.


I followed this guide HERE here and my readings were 0amps meaning no draw? If you don’t want to read the article, it’s stating to disconnect the negative battery terminal, take your multimeter and set it to amps, put one lead on the negative battery cable and one on the negative battery post to see how many amps passing through.

 

Thats about what mine reads when doing the same test on cold no start been sitting a day or two using Multimeter.

 

Also, was your truck started in that Gauge picture earlier above? My awry comment was based on it looking low when running. Maybe I assumed wrongly.

 

Engine was off, key on. I’m starting to think it’s a bad battery again. I don’t have faith in the NAPA batteries like I used to. Here is a video of the volts when starting:
https://youtube.com/shorts/2-aX2hReaEA

 

Yeah. Been reading more and more about batteries not lasting as long and also them failing early right after install. I’ve been with Bosch for 2 batteries now.

Bought the first one based on reviews. Got the second one free as their Pro-Ration Warranty is the best around. Got the second battery for free after 36 month plus 3 weeks rated failure. Guy says next one is free too if the battery expires close to/or right after the month rating. Mine always die right at the rating.

 

Nice video there. definately get another battery, somewhere else....

 

Dongle has been a success so far. Toying with some new Dash Instruments. Had both Rear o2 Sensors warn of pending codes at the same time last week. Reset them and no return Codes with over a 100 miles driven.

Also, my Transmission Temp Dial has been sticky on two occasions. An unplug and replug has reset that dial for correction.

 

The transmission dial is the only one I’ve had issues with as well. I’ve noticed that if I restart the app, it works again. Mine have a little green indicator on each dial and when it’s flashing, it’s good to go.

 

I have a different meter, but on mine you have to switch the where the leads plug in to the meter. Has three plug ins. Mine had to be wired like this with the red and black leads to measure amperage like the writing suggests at the bottom. Otherwise it just reads zero.

 

Mines the same. It has way more features than I’ll ever need but it was free from work so I’ll use it as much as I can lol.

 

That picture is of yours, the arrows point to where the red and black lead should be attached in order to be able to measure current flow

 

Yup, I had them setup that way.

 

shouldn't be zero. Should be 0.0, something. There are some things drawing current even when the vehicle is off. Mine reads 0.03 amps with the truck off. Clock, Radio memory etc.

 

Won't say it's normal or not normal but 30 milli amps is kewl for our 1st gen....under 50 milli amps is acceptable....>100 milli amps and I'd be looking for that culprit !

Flukes are the bomb, especially if you borrowed it from Uncle Sam and never took it back. After 40 years, perhaps that was my retirement watch

 

Update:
So I’ve been leaving the dongle unplugged when I’m not using the truck and no issues since, starts right up. I did notice the last couple of times driving that my alternator is spiking? My torque is registering the highest reading at almost 18v. It’s only been driven once a week right now. Is that normal?

 

Not normal. If your dash gauge is also spiking then maybe its a bad alternator? One of the signs is spikes before giving up the ghost.

 

I haven’t been able to watch the dash long enough to see when it is spiking but I’ll keep an eye on it.

 

Voltage regulator is trying to compensate for seeing low voltage, usually a bad 'sense' wire, corroded and/or broken. Sometimes it's the voltage regulator itself (they are built into the alternator but can be replaced).

 

So I’m back and square one. I was gone in Maui for a couple of weeks and when I got back, it was dead as a door nail. I jumped it and it ran fine after. I figured I’d do the multimeter test and it was still showing zero. I did some more diagnosing and long story short, the fuse inside my fluke meter was blown, hence why it was always showing zero on the previous tests. I replaced the fuse and this is what it is displaying:

I had the battery tested and it showed good but needs a charge. It’s displaying 12.27v.


From my little knowledge on this, I believe this is well below spec, correct? It’s not even pulling 0.5 amps (0.000052 amps to be exact).



I did notice that voltage meter seems to spike when it is cold a couple of times but once engine temps are good, it levels out. I’m guessing my alternator is on its way out?

 

I think I’m another path. I got the alternator tested two times today at different stores and it all tested good.

I did some more draw testing and I am getting a significant drain from the dome light circuit. The dome lights are off but it also operates the radio which is off as well but still drawing power. After some research, I may be victim to a leaky windshield. It’s been raining the last few days but I can’t tell if the carpet is wet but it is defintely discolored like it has been at one point. Pulling the cowl off here shortly.

 

Hey guys,
Before I buy the veepeak and download the app and pay for it. I'm assuming reading any CELs is possible. Is resetting possible as well with this? Thanks