How much sound deadening for doors? (Inside & out?)

I'm upgrading all my speakers and the HU. While I have the doors apart I'm planning on adding sound mat.

How much do I need for a Crewmax? I have one box of 36 sq ft on order, do I need another?

This guy only does the inside surface, he uses two sheets per door. Since I'm getting 9 sheets seems like I should have enough:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxQpFK9L6k0

Do I need to do the 'inside' (ie. outside-facing metal) of each door as well? Can I compromise and only do some of that on the front doors and use less material on the back doors?

I'm not an audiophile, I just want my system to sound good. Thanks

 

This shop does inside & out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tap3txSgVlo

 

You’ll need at least 15-20SF for each door on a crew Max.

 

I beleive @Freeezen just did his recently IIRC.

 

Ok, ordered another box.

 

Any concerns in terms of trapping humidity that leads to corrosion with both in and outside?

 

I did both inner skins and outer. I also did my back wall in the crewmax. My side mirrors don't move at all but the rear view mirror dances like a blonde at mardi gras...
I want to do the roof next but am I am not ready yet. I used two different brands. I used sound skins on the inside and kilmat on the inside of the door panel. Doors shut very solid now and quiet.

 

there are drains at the bottom of the doors. The plastic barrier from the factory is literally called a moisture barrier. You can “seal” the door up and moisture will not be an issue

 

Yes, the barrier keeps it from going to the plastic door cards.

My concern is the material itself holds the moisture, inside the outer and inner skin, it's constantly humid, which in winter plus salt is a disaster in the making, I've seen this happened before on older cars in the late 90's.

 

I think I used 1 box of the 18sq feet 80 mil Kilmat and 1 box of the 36sq ft 80 mil Kilmat. I had some left over. I used some on each exterior door skin, interior door skin (didn't cover the access holes) and the rear wall.

 

I used almost 60 sf on the doors doing inside and outside. I used over 120sf in total doing the doors, floor, and back wall. I have photos in my built thread

 

I used about 50sf on my doors. I didn’t completely cover every last inch like you guys did, still quite a noticeable difference on the doors

 

Did anyone of you do under the headliner? I m considering whether I want to remove the thing.

 

Nope, way too involved for my blood.

 

I think I m doing it in the next few days. I need to sound deaden the top of the cab. I haven t found a video on how to do it, but I did find a tutorial with pics here. Not sure what year tundra that is in the pics, but it looks like a no brainer task although it s may take a while.

 

I've done the headliner, doors, rear panel, b-pillars, c-pillas and rear floor under the rear seat. Need to pull the front seats and do under them at some point in time. The roof made a huge difference, rain was really bothering my ears, that's what started me out on the sound deadening path:

 

Even thinking about tearing off the headliner gives me hives

 

It's possible to tackle by yourself, but I would definitely recommend a second set of hands.
It's not difficult from a technical standpoint but headliners are notoriously fragile.
They don't have alot of x-sectional strength so they can bend and crease very easily. The headliner size in the crewmax makes minimizing that challenging.
They are typically only made of 2 sheets of fiberglass strands, rigid foam sheet, some glue, then the fabric top-coat. they heated and compressed to shape.
Once they crease, it's over, trashed. If the headliner is flexed too much, the fiberglass can also buckle in the stack-up and create de-lamination issues.
The de-lamination, may not occur immediately, but thermo-cycling can bring it to light later.
I don't work at Toyota, but the manufacturing methods are about the same across the industry.

 

Oh man, I like that, it's strangely satisfying to see headliner being done, when I get to it, I think I'll dye everything black to match or have black suede, it sounds silly but I had black suede headliner in one car, it felt like million bucks.

 

Meant to ask earlier - any reason why you put back the OEM plastic sheets over the holes in the door? I've seen most people just go over that with killmat or whatever they're using. For future maintenance reasons I could see leaving the holes open but since we're trying to deaden the door it seems like the holes would really hurt.

 

Access for maintenance is the original reason I didn't cover the openings, but after seeing so many just cover them I may revisit this in the future. The only problem is that I'm so happy with the way my system sounds right now that I don't think I'll being going back in there any time soon.

 

I had my tune done by Nick Apicella who owns Resonix, a really really nice sound deadening company and he highly recommended covering the access holes. He made a real good point that if you cover the access holes with a piece of deadener and need the access - you simply cut the hole open again and cover it back up with a new piece of deadener.

 

I think I just don't want to pull the door panels again right now. I may do it in the future just to see if I notice any improvement. I even have enough leftover Kilmat to do it. I'm just being lazy I guess.

 

It's actually a moisture barrier.

 

Yeah but so is the killmat. I'd rather have a thick layer of rubber over that hole than a plastic bag.

 

To cover the holes, but have them accessible, I used chicken wire and then matted that front and back. I then covered the holes with and screwed the removeable panels to the door.

 

I was just sharing the design intent. The plastic sheet satisfies the requirement at the absolute lowest cost.
Higher grade vehicles that care about NVH and road noise get foam plugs, thinsulate padding or a foam pad over plastic.

I 100% agree that killmat will seal to door inner and will be an improvement over original.

 

Well crap - found a thread from last year where someone installs the same system I ordered. And he applies killmat to the back wall again - I guess the implication is that the sub will otherwise rattle the large access door at the back of the Crewmax cabin. So I think I'll cover that as well.

3 boxes total so far, 36 sq ft each. I hope it's enough, NOT going to do the floor and ceiling.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/my-stereo-install-tech-12-volts-hertz-kit.75810/

 

Why not make a cover with 1/8 ABS to fill the hole? You can put sound deadening material on that to help kill sounds waves better.

 

I highly recommend Resonix.