NAPA HD CV Upgrade

I'm going to upgrade to these due to a ripped boot and the fact that I'm lifted: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CVQ941260?impressionRank=4&keywordInput=cv Pricey, yes but looks like I can get 20% off.

Anything I should know before doing this install... any special tools? Probably need an alignment afterward?
I've done CVs on other vehicles (small sedans and wagons) but not a Tundra. Going to order these tomorrow methinks.

 

they are a wear and tear component, may be helpful to add how much lift you have and possibly a pic of your cv angles. I have no experience with Napa parts but I like their tool lineups.

 

Alignment shouldn't be necessary. While you're in there consider doing the ECGS bushing at have new seals on hand.

 

2 1/2" lift up front with 33s. Suspension Maxx links, SPC upper CAs, new lowers.

 

Not sure which bushings and seals you're referring to.

 

This bushing is an aftermarket replacement for the factory needle bearing that's inside the driver side of the front diff. Some folks opt to replace it because they tend to wear out eventually. The ECGS bushing should last forever. https://www.tundras.com/threads/ecgs-bushing-tool.59664/

The seals I'm referring to are where the end of the CV axle inserts into the diff. I replaced both of mine. On the other size of the axle, there is also a seal where it connect to the hub. I didn't replace those but I wish I would have. I'll do them next time.

 

Consider a diff drop if you don't have one already.

 

Doesn’t CVJ Reman say that the Toyota Axles are the best for lifts?

Did @empty_lord say he has NAPA Axles and next time would not put them in?

 

I think SurfSpearMex guy put these NAPA HD on his iirc?

 

@Surf_spear_Mex

 

Reckon I'll hold off on this until we sort it out. Seems there are conflicting views regarding my choice of parts and it's a fair amount of money for those NAPA CVs.

 

This! Mine has gone south less than 6 months after replacing my CV axles. Would have been nice to take care of this during the job.
The video for the ECGS bushing install on youtube walks you through both CV removal and replacement and the bearing removal and bushing install. Wheels, brakes, tie rod and sway link come off, lower ball joint has to be busted open and the spindle swung out of the way to get enough slack to to remove the CV. You can pry, or use a bar and hammer to tap the CV out of the front diff. Good time to do the needle bearing swap now. Then reverse to reassemble. Supposedly the C-clip retainer on the end of the CV that goes in to the front diff should have the open portion facing down during reinsertion to make it easier. New lower ball joints are easier now if they need to be done.

 

I'll consider it, but have read on these forums not to bother with the diff drop if my lift is less than 3". Rides really well now without a diff drop. Would this stop it from eating boots?

 

Honestly, I hate this double wishbone shit. Double wishing it had a solid front axle like a real 4X4.

 

I wouldn't want the ride or the death wobble of the solid axle on my front end since it's a daily. Steering is usually box and pitman arm which also sucks compared to rack and pinion. Both have their plusses and minuses, but this is for the smoove ride and steering everyday. I'll take the independent front end.

 

Some people would rather not bother and then have their cv boots go bad faster. If the bellows of the boot (inner or outer) is rubbing on itself at ride height it will wear out much faster than stock.

You can pull the boot towards the center of the axle shaft to lessen the boot rubbing itself also.
Kinda hard to tell but this picture was before I pulled the boots more towards the center of the axle shaft. Now it doesn't rub itself when driving down the road.

 

Your opinion might be different if you took a ride in my lifted Jeep. Very nice on and off road and much easier to lift and work on. Death wobble is easy to diagnose and correct. Never had a wobble with my Jeep... driving and modifying it for 20yrs.

 

I think very few of us have a front end build that extreme. That looks amazing though. In a closer to factory setup, The Napa's are probably fine. The ones I get at Advanced have been fine.

 

I'm looking at the NAPAs I posted because they boast greater articulation for lifted trucks. Is this a lie? They cost more than twice as much as their standard CVs. False advertising?
NAPA: "Important Information: Extended Travel - High Articulation, For Lifted or Stock Suspensions, on or Off Road."

 

Lifted or stock. Supposedly they have a "heavy duty" outboard boot. I don't know if there's any magic in these over the $67 remans they offer (reported to be OEM cores that have been rebuilt). I don't see any real complaints about the Napa's in a normal application. I've not had a real CV failure of any kind. Just boots that get old and start slinging grease. OEM Factory and the Advanced ones both performed well for me.

 

I hadn't heard this before but will give it a try next time, thanks!

 

Maybe? Hopefully I can get some feedback from someone who's been using these NAPA HDs.

 

I can't imagine Napa axles are that bad. Don't they have a lifetime warranty? Replacing a CV axle isn't all that difficult on our trucks. I'd be tempted to try them. Worst case you get a free replacement in a few years if the boots tear.

 

I might be misunderstanding what you are saying, but I didn't have to touch any of these. There is a video that shows you can actually leave all these bolted up. Just remove the axle nut and the 4 LBJ bolts, and then you can just swing it all out of the way. No need to remove the calipers or touch the sway bar or tie rod. I imagine this saves a good amount of time.

Screen grab from youtube.
@Glock 40 the red circled part is one of the seals I mentioned before.

 

This is how I do it, very simple. Put two lug nuts on the wheel studs and support the hub with a floor jack.

 

My driver's side wouldn't swing far enough out of the way for some reason and I pulled the whole damn spindle last time. The passenger side was much easier.

 

I saw this tip on the ECGS bushing replacement video, haven't tried it yet.

 

Would you say your 20 year old lifted jeep drives and rides better than you 20 year old Tundra? I haven't driven, or ridden in any Wrangler that drove or rode as good as my Truck. We've been all the way through my Father in laws 97 Wrangler suspension. It was lifted before he bought it on 35's. We replaced all the upper and lower link arms, Panhard bar, shocks, steering stabilizer, tie rod, draglink etc. Full alignment. It's not bad, but the steering is still just OK. The ride is meh, and quite rough with the short wheelbase. My wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee blows it and my truck out of the water. Fully independent suspension though.

 

Full disclosure, Might have gotten frustrated, might have had a few of the yellow jackets in the picture prior to making these decisions....

 

I put Napa HD's on mine when swapping. From what I remember they were the same as their lower tier axles except the boot which was made of a different material than stock and supposed to last significantly longer. I can't vouche for those claims, but mine have had no issues with 6112's on top setting and over a year.

I will add that one side was easy as pie, and the other side was the devil himself. I did it by detaching lower control arms (at hub)/swaybar and ratchet strapping the hub and attached steering/UCA out of my way.