JL 10-TW3, Audiofrog,Kenwood DMX1037s Build

I did when I first installed it It ended up being the gain on the amp going to my mids. I turned it down and completely gone.

 

Dumb. I hate iPhones

 

So can anyone tell me which TW1s I should go with? 2 ohms or 4 ohms?

 

Are they the shallow mounted tw1?

 

Yes shallow mount TW1s with a JL 900/5 amp.

 

Let me guess are you correctional officer up the in High Dessert?

 

No

 

Lots of CO'S there. Sorry for asking. I was in that for a few years but got out of it.

 

Hd 900/5 or the JD 900/5? The HD is 1.5ohms stable and the JD is 2om stable on the sub channel.

And Single voice coil subs right?

If you are going with the HD then id check with JL about running the 2 2ohm subs wired parallel for a 1ohm load at the amp. Its kinda odd that its lowest impedance is 1.5ohms. Im not sure what combination of voice coils and subs you can wire up for that impedance.

Well heres a diagram though for 2 svc 2ohm subs wired for a 1ohm load.


Edit: if you are using the JD then 2 4ohm subs wired in parallel will be 2ohms at the amp. Just wire it the same as above.

 

The JL amp I have has 2 positive and 2 negative ports or terminals for sub woofers. So if I were to run each sub on it's on independent positive and negative wire to the amp I should be able to run two 2 ohms subs and it be 2 ohms final value and the amp correct?

 

Did you find the problem yet?

If not, have you checked to see if the noise is still present while the engine is not running?

Have you done the big 3 upgrade yet?

Have you tried running the headunits ground to another ground that your system is already connected too? Like the ground your amp is using?

 

Havent fixed the issue yet. Static is present even with the engine off. I have grounded it to another location on the truck and it did not help. Which big 3 are you talking about?

 

Im pretty sure the sub channel will be mono outputs. That means they are internally parallel outputs.

Basically if you have 2 subs that are 2ohm single voice coils with each one wired to it on set of + and - outputs, it will equal a 1ohm load. Its the same thing in the above diagram but in a much simpler way.

2 subs, 4ohm single voice coils, wired to its own + and - will be a 2 ohm final load. Im pretty confident the TW1 4ohm subs are the correct subs for your amp.

 

That makes sense. I will get the 4 ohms subs.

 

The big 3 is when you run a new ground from your battery to the chassis. Then another ground from the chassis to the block. Then a positive from the battery to the alternator.

The factory grounds that are used in the majority of vehicles are typically just suitable enough for the vehicle while stock. With an aftermarket system this upgrade can make a very noticeable improvement in keeping your voltage up and it helps to stop headlights from dimming as such.

 

I'll look into upgrading those, thanks.

 

Post a picture of the grounded wire you installed. It should be a short run from the unit.

 

I only ran a wire from the engine bay grounding point to the HU to test it. It's back on the factory head unit ground (black wire)

 

The shorter the better. Find a spot near the unit.