First Gen Brake Bleeding Advice?

Hey guys, I'm thinking about bleeding my brakes and running new fluid through the system some day in the next few months. I've got an '04 Tundra Access Cab LTD with around 99k miles. I don't know when the brake fluid was changed last, so I plan on changing it along with some other things that I don't have receipts for from the P.O., and the truck is almost at 100k I just wanted to ask for some of your advice, or for some tips/tricks you might have while doing this. Should I use the two person bleeder method, where one person presses the brake and one person cracks the bleeder? Also I've heard that I should put like an inch thick piece of wood under the pedal so it doesn't go to the floor while bleeding, because there is a chance a seal in the master cylinder could blow. Is this an easy and straight forward job to do, or is it difficult? Anything to watch out for while doing this? Thanks in advance!

 

Sounds like you’ve got a good grasp already. Get 32oz of DOT3 and bleed away with another helper. You’ll be alright.

Step up into Bosch DOT5.1 on your next bleed once you get the funk out on round one.

 

Thanks! Also would a 3/8" flexible hose be small enough to fit over the bleeder?

 

I think it needs to be smaller than 3/8s

so I had never done brakes until recently. If you’ve done them and know how to do the 2 person; do it. If not get a vac bleeder or a speedi bleeder system. I’ve got another toy.....ota that I will sooner or later bleed using the speedi bleeder, so it justifies it’s purchase. My first round bleeding with “one man” bleeders, wasn’t pleasant. So I ordered the SB system and got much better results.
Also the mojo is good with the Bosch fluid, and adjust your rears!!!!

 

I don’t use a hose. I punch a small hole in the side of a water bottle and push it over the bleeder. It conforms around some angles on the rear wheels which helps. Two person pump method. Yell pump 5 times. Open bleeder on first pump and close it on the last pump before it ends.

AKA The Widdy Wack System.

 

Interesting. I've never seen that before!

 

Hang around and I’ll show you even more.

 

Is it true to NOT let the reservoir become empty while flushing out the old fluid? So, I'm guessing it works to where you add new fluid over top of the old fluid? Seems like they would just mix and defeat the purpose of getting fresh new fluid in

 

I extract as much fluid from the reservoir as possible using a large syringe, then top up with fresh fluid.

 

Okay, got it. Essentially, you suck out as much as possible from the top, then top it off with fresh fluid, then proceed to bleed the brakes until the good fresh juice starts coming out. Right?

 

You got it. If the fluid is pretty old or your new fluid is tinted a different color then it should become pretty evident when you're bleeding that you can move on to another wheel or the LSPV.

 

Ya had me until LSPV - I'm guessing that this is for the rear drum brakes but can you explain more? Now that I'm saying it, I realize how little I know of bleeding the rear brakes on my truck

 

LSPV is load sensing proportioning valve. The valve is mounted to the frame and arm bolts to the differential. As the payload increases and the suspension sags it changes the proportion of brake pressure going from and rear. It has a small bleeder. If swapping out the fluid bleed it first to be sure the clean fluid is all the way at the rear. The go back and do RR, LPSV, LR, RF and LF in that order. Recommend looking at pressure bleeders at HF.

 

If your DC has VSC ("Auto LSD" button in dash), you don't have an LSPV. If you do, if you follow this doohickey up to the driver side framerail, you'll find it. It has a bleeder and needs to be bled (I'd argue it be bled before doing the rear drums). It's reaaaaaaaaally high up, at the highest point in the hard lines shy of the ABS squid and booster/MC combo, which is probably why it likes to hold air and cause spongey brakes, if we think about it logically.

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Okay, so I checked and it looks like I do not have "Auto LSD" in the dash when I turn the key over one time. But let me know if there is some user error going on here..

Also, looking back over my maintenance record, it looks like the rear brake shoes and drums were changed out about 35k miles (6 years ago). It seems like the brake drums should be good for a long time, but maybe it's time to change the shoes out? If so, do I need to bleed as well?

Is there a scenario where it's only necessary to bleed the front brakes and that's fine or is it an all or nothing situation? I really just don't understand how brake drums work and the maintenance required there.

 

Correct. Be very careful not to let the level get down to the bottom of the reservoir. If it does, you introduce air to the system.

 

Pop a drum and take a look at it. The rears do wear at a much slower rate and should be fine at 35k miles. Hit it with some brake cleaner while in there. Also, bleed the whole system when you do it.

I don't think it's been mentioned, but don't push the pedal all the way down when bleeding. Only about halfway. If you need to know the process of how to bleed just let us know.

 

If you’re gonna hit those drum internals with brake clean, need to lube the friction points.

 

You're talking about the gauge cluster. I'm talking about the dash. Note the Auto LSD button, left of where the 4WD buttons are: https://tnstatic.net/attachments/img_5042-jpg.984645/

That truck has the VSC system, thus shouldn't have an LSPV. Why did Toyota apparently do it that way? NFC.

Quality brake shoes, properly adjusted, should last you 80k-120k miles. I'm on my factory shoes at 81k miles and I still have at least 5-6mm of material avg on the shoes last I checked.

IMHO, bleeding is an all-or-nothing situation. If you're nervous, get a vacuum bleeder like the and watch a YT video on how to use it.

 

I use this: https://www.motiveproducts.com/
Got it somewhere around '03 or '04, works great. Do bleed that LSPV. I had a spongy pedal for a while until I figured out there was a 5th bleed screw. Some weight in the bed helps those rear bleeders flow. Best.

 

Haha wow, how embarrassing for me.. okay, I checked and no I do not have an "Auto LSD" button in dash. So, that means I have no LSPV. Nice! One less thing to worry about.

If you guys think that the brakes/fluid can wait a bit, then I'll do that. I've got a laundry list of items I'm replacing now

 

I believe you need to re-read what was said....If a Tundra has an Auto LSD button it has VSC/TRAC BUT does not have LSPV. If Tundra does not have AUTO LSD it has LSPV. Of course you'll see the LSPV once under the truck. My 04 DC has LSPV but no VSC/TRAC nor an Auto LSD button,

Also and it's a personal choice....I bleed furthest from Master Cylinder first....RR then LR, LSPV, RF, then LF

 

Ahh yes, I read too quickly. Good call out.

Brake fluid is on its way

 

I got one of these and love it. Never doing a bleed the old way again.

Some notes on usage:
It comes with a crappy chain and hooks that may or may not for your application. If it doesn't fit go to the hardware store and get some new hooks/chain.

As far as pressure goes I would only pump it up as much as necessary. The reservoir is not designed to be a pressure vessel, so be nice to your old plastic. On my 01 highlander, the fluid starts to flow around 10psi or so. I usually got to 12psi and have to bump it up once or twice for a full bleed. (Haven't done the Tundra yet). Not sure if this makes a difference but usually run on the ignition and give the pedal a little push to get everything moving.

 

Would appreciate some guidance on brake bleed. I have the 05 4.7 4x4 with no Auto LSD button. Can someone help me locate the bleeder screw for the LSPV? Never done this before, just reading the above thread. And what order should the LSPV be bled? Thank you

 

The screw is the nipple itself. LSPV is 2nd in line. Passenger rear, LSPV, drivers rear, passenger front, driver front.

 

I’ve bleed them every way, but the h2o bottle trick. For me this is the best way, power bleeder all day. Suck out the residual fluid from tank. Hook it up, then open each bleeder valve. I usually just use the air in the unit to bleed, but I will also put fluid I the unit to full flush. I made the adapters with a few $ worth of stuff. I recommend putting a ball valve inline of adapter to better control operation. I only use dot3, dot5 is more than you probably need/want, its composition is different than 3 or 4. Speed bleeders are ok, but need to be installed on every vehicle, power bleeder works on every vehicle and keeps standard bleeders. No shade, but I’ve heard those check valves in speed bleeders to fail.

 

In addition, I too will switch the ignition on to acc. This allows the abs pumps and whatever to cycle. My junk is mostly to dumb to matter, but advanced abs can be tricky, if in doubt research your system.
Another point of hell yeah for power bleeder is that it makes leaks very visible. So if your system feels off after bleeding, than you could have a leak. Pressurizing the system makes finding it easier. Best yo

 

Is it too much of a noob question to ask for a picture?

Also, does everyone agree with what this guy says about the rear brakes: https://youtu.be/ejpP_Ldq0QI?si=RzumNL0ufiPVCS2z

 

This is the bleeder for lspv