What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Please don't bring back my install nightmares.

 

Big engine rebuild update


Getting it from the top of the curb to the parking lot area was scary AF. Thankfully, with help from my friend and some ramps I built from 4x4's, we and the engine made it to the bottom unscathed.


Me, acting like we're not gonna have to pull this engine back out like 3 more times in the future:


As you might have read not long ago, we did install the torque converter incorrectly, which prevented the driveplate/crankshaft from turning, and we had to yank everything back out. The manual didn't say anything about the TC seating, I guess you just have to be a mechanic and know it. We inspected critical areas for damage after pulling, like the splines and TC internals, since we had bolted them together wrongly.



The parts that mated looked fine, I mean; not perfect, but fine. We initially couldn't get the torque converter to seat on the shaft. Finally, I just pushed pretty hard and it went in! Satisfying moment. I think this picture was still before it got happy:


For some reason the mating process was more difficult the second time around. One transmission bolt even got cross-threaded. Still, I got all the things hooked up and situated over the following days, such as accessories, vacuum lines, intake parts, fan, radiator, coolant, oil, new gas, and most frustratingly, wiring. Golly, the wiring was a PITA. Passenger side? Laid back perfectly. But the driver's side has this plastic casing that only goes one certain way underneath the exhaust only once the starter is connected. Toyota didn't have any literature, I had failed to take photos of the original fitment, and the Internet had nothing. Thankfully this forum swooped in like heroes. Thanks again @FirstGenVol and the rest who helped so quickly with pictures when I didn't know where random grounds and stuff went.


Here's the stupid side of the loom that F-ed up my hands:


After the wiring gremlins, things went back on without too much trouble. Note to self, install serpentine belt before all the radiator hoses and fan stuff is on. There are still a couple random lines I should replace and different spots to detail, but here is the engine in all her aesthetic beauty, I hope @Professional Hand Model says I've made it to engine bay dusting status. I think I did a damn good job:


The Anticipated Startup

Unfortunately, I tried to start the engine and it wouldn't "catch," just spun. I didn't have oil pressure. Then I discovered the new oil dribbling out of this rear main seal area between the engine and transmission on the underside (photo just of location, not problem):


I'm going to have to drop the transmission and see where the leak is. It's either coming out of 1) the new rear main seal due to it not being seated correctly, 2) the new little seal above that one whose purpose I'm unsure of (maybe it slipped out of its groove before the plate was reinstalled), or 3) I didn't RTV adequately around the plate that holds the seal. I am 95% sure it's not the head or something else; gas, air, spark, and the other thing seemed fine. Has anyone else replaced their rear main seal, and if so, do you know if it's supposed to be flush with the plate? That's how I installed mine, but there was weirdly room for the seal to seat further in until it stopped. If that's the problem at least it's free to fix. I'm not sure why it wouldn't be flush; the Haynes manual says to hammer a piece of wood over the seal until it seats right which means flush. Anyone who has thoughts please chime in. I have hit so many speed bumps during this project and I'm just ready for it to be over.

I will at least note that when it was trying to start, the motor sounded different than I remember... You long-time Tundra drivers know what it's like to be used to the certain sounds of your truck. I swear mine almost sounded "newer" and had more "kick."

 

back is different than front if i remember right

 

They are. Called stealer to confirm.

 

Just dawned on me that I potentially installed the wrong rear main seal, which would explain the oil leak. Stevenson Toyota lists 90311-95012 as the part, but I put in a 90311-A0002 from McGeorge Toyota. Can I get a second set of eyes on this to confirm if the parts are different? If yes, the small gap when seating the wrong seal makes sense. Their superseded part #'s match, but idk if that's relevant.

 

I know that the fronts are M12x1.50x40mm because I just replaced two on my donor spindles.

Haven’t really caught up on the thread so I don’t know if you’re looking for fronts or rears.

 

I placed an order for 12 front, and 12 rear.

I'll just do them all, and try to save the ones I can. I need to replace my OEM lug nuts anyways. They'll be good hammer fodder.

 

I probably shouldn't have done this on 5 lugs...

https://youtu.be/EHVGAIc7fog

Out of my peripheral vison this one eyed Camaro looked like he was flyin in. Split second decision said hit the skinny.

He's obviously already hit something based on missing headlight, and fender. He probably wouldn't care.

Possible epilepsy trigger. You've been warned.
https://youtu.be/c4MUy9p2oJ8

I made this video for the ditch light brackets thread I can't find now. I know someone asked how these lights do on the spinny tassels.

 

Nice work so far. You are almost there!

I’m getting conflicting data on all of my Deep Searches. Best to call the Stealer and work it out over the phone. The pic below is another option # but do not rely as other sites conflict with it.

 

@empty_lord
@landphil

 

Did you pull off the rear main housing? If so was it properly resealed?

 

I saw this in a video, but I don't get it. Are people using the lower ball joint to hold the spindle instead of removing the spindle and using a press?

I pulled the spindle to remove a broken lower ball joint bolt, and just an easy hit freed the upper ball joint. I guess I don't get why anyone would ruin the lower ball joint if you need a press to install the uppers anyway.

Any feedback if the store loaner presses have the correct cups would be great - mine have a lot life yet, but it looks like many of the kits that are loaned out don't have the correct sizes. My thought was just to run the spindles down to the shop and spend a few bucks to have them press the parts.

 

It's only the passenger side that is loose... this makes sense because that is the side a local shop worked on several years ago. The steering rack mount bushing on the passenger side also has a little play.

 

I did mine with a rental from O’Reillys. It took some careful arranging of the cups and I think I even used some misc socket I had lying around.

Im gonna be pressing one out of my spare parts tonight so I’ll see if I can get a pic.

 

I’d certainly confirm the seal P/N with a dealer. Also be sure there isn’t a groove worn in the crankshaft where the seal lip runs, and that the seal is installed perfectly straight into the housing, as a crooked seal is a leaky seal. If there is any groove in the crankshaft, you may be able to drive the seal deeper so the seal lip runs on a good surface.

But before you split the engine and trans again, I’d try to make 100% sure the oil isn’t running down from above.

 

Finally Found a topper/cap for my 06 DC, planning to build a camping setup. It's a Glasstite, I had to drive out of state to pick it up, but it's made for a DC tundra so it's a perfect fit.

Got the windows and rear hatch pulled off to replace the weather seals (they were a little leaky). I'm planning to paint it while I'm at it. Has anyone ever use raptor liner on a topper? That's my plan at the moment, I think it should look decent. I used it in the bed and was very happy with it.

 

Installed the Denso Blower Motor for smoov air flows. She is quiet.

Post Mortem’d the old one by just spins and a visual/sound check. Something inside the motor housing is loose with a ticking. Anywho, the new one is in and glad I did it.

Some limited drive time with the Derale Temp Valve shows about a 15° increase in temps which corresponds with reviewers. The temps did rise quicker than normal on cool start, but not super quick.

Weirdly, the solid Aluminum Construction of the Valve acts as a heat sink. You can feel the heat on it more so than when touching the Trans Cooler prior to install. I bet this thing will act as an additional cooler in high heat situations.

Ying and Yang. It warms yet cools. The essence of wetness is water.

 

If you have the ball joint press with the correct fittings and an impact gun, then the hardest part is getting the bastardly c clip off the ubj, they don't have little tabs with holes like most do. Put the new joints in the freezer for a few hours like mentioned above and they pop in easier.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/show-me-your-truck-camping-setup.81354/

 

I duhrka duhred this morning and didnt mark my driveshaft while changing the carrier bearing. Can anyone with a stock driveshaft first gen confirm zerk angle?

3 joint type, please.

 

You mainly want to make sure the shaft is in phase all the way down.
It’s basically means having all the ears in line with each other

 

I meant for the factory balancing. That image was from a tacoma forum, but id imagine theyd line up everything like that. Sequoia is 2 joint.

 

All taken from same side and angle- ish. Hope this helps

 

My ptsd is flaring

 

If you hadn't got the clip out when you did was considering cutting it with a dremel. I just didn't want to spend an hour digging through my garage to find it.

 

I pressed on my UBJ for about 3 minutes with no results. I was like WTF! Finally I scraped the dirt, and grime away revealing the retaining ring.

I felt like a dumb ass, but gotter done.


The kit I rented didn't come with a good adapter for the SPC adapter. I used a 3/16 plate.

 

Can confirm diagram is correct.

 

So quick question. Currently have a 2 inch (guessing, have not measured) spacer level on the front of my 05 4x4. I've got a 3"/1" OME lift and a trail gear 1" diff drop on the way. I'm going to remove the spacer and just put the 3" struts on by themselves with the 1" diff drop. Hypothetically speaking, if I wanted to put the spacer back on with the 3" lift if I wanted to be a little taller, I would probably need too drop the differential further to avoid stressing the CV axles correct?

 

That's all I needed to hear, thanks!