Fog lights not working

Hey guys. My first gen is having a fog light problem.
Got this truck a truck a few years ago and when I got it one of the fog bulbs was out so I disconnected the working one just so I didn’t have one bulb illuminated if I accidentally turned the switch. I meant to get a new bulb but I completely forgot about it until now.
Anyhow, just installed new bulbs and instead of the fog switch turning on the fog lights, IT TURNS ON THE BRIGHTS?!? I might add, the normal bright switch works too to turn on the brights. also no Little blue indicator to tell me my brights are on. All the while the fog lights are not turning on at all... so I’ve tried the fog fuse, it’s good. The next thing i was gonna try is the fog relay. Otherwise I’m stumped?

 

Welcome to the forum.

Sounds like you're using LEDS, or the computer isn't getting proper signal "back" from the lights to say "OK, yeah the high beams are on. Heres a blue light on the dash."

Try these. I have a set.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-led-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit/3957/8622/

Some will say that only one is needed, but I never found a definitive "Yes" saying that only one was required. I installed both using JB weld Steelstik on the fender wall thing near the headlight.

 

Sweet! Thank you so much, perhaps that would explain the radio interference as well.
The LEDS are so nice to have so hopefully this fixes it!

 

Leds cause radio interference in general. The only way to fix that is to change the radio head unit for a "modern" one.

I still have my stock radio. I've noticed that when I run my high beams there's static like crazy.

(Light bar is tied into the high beams.)

Same thing when I hit the brakes. Leds there also.

 

Copy.
I ordered that kit. I read some other stuff of people having the same problem they said it fixed it.
If it doesn’t. I might just direct wire some little led floods with their own switch in the place of them.

 

Thanks again!

 

By the way, Welcome to the club. There's lots of good info in build threads, and on the two daily threads.

Admittedly, the search function on this website is pretty much useless. I have more luck using Google, and adding tundras.com at the end of search.

Here's the lunctable thread. A lot of us 1st gen guys bullshit, and discuss "off-topic" things here.

Here's the what have you done to your 1st gen Tundra? Thread. Lots of goodies here.

1st gen build threads

 

I picked up and installed this set:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...esistor-kit-h4-led-headlight-bulbs/2179/5079/

It seemed to work and allowed me to use my fogs finally but I went in for a double check of the connections before committing to drilling and mounting and found that the resistor unit was very hot. It was only on for possibly 5 minutes max. Thinking about just scraping everything and going stock.

 

I linked the wrong part earlier. Either one will work. I have the set that you linked. My bad.

Anyways, instead of drilling, and bolting. I mounted mine with JB weld Steelstik. It comes in tube, you blend it together, and then stick it to the inside of your fender/enginebay. Mine are around the headlight areas. I can take pictures later on if you want.

I've had mine mounted with steelstik for going on 4 years now. No issues with the resistors, or the stik.

 

Oh I see no worries. But does yours get hot after a few minutes as well? Thats what worries me, the last thing I need is my wiring harness going up in flames because I wanted brighter lights

 

Yeah, it's hotter'n'hell. Especially on the forearm. It's only the resistor box that gets hot because a resistor is literally a heater like in your oven.

I have mine tucked out of the way so I never have to touch'em

 

LOL I see. Well thank you and I am sorry about your forearm. If you get a chance can you send me a pic of where you mounted it, Im sure i could mount it anywhere but just curious where you decided to put it.

 

I'll do that when I get home today, but you may have to remind me. Lol

 

I wish I could man but it looks like your in Kentucky and Im in Cali ~3hours diff and I am not a morning man lol. So if I get it I get it lol.

 

I'm a night shifter. So it's midnight here, so it must be 9pm there?

 

Yeah close 1020 pm. But yeah I worked night shift too, 11pm - 7pm for 12 years, I feel you man.

 

Its not a rush man, just when you get a chance.

 

@Tundra2 could you still send a pic of how you mounted that resistor?

 

I’d be interested as well on where you placed the resistor.

 

Do you have any issues with the high beam indicator on the dash not illuminating when you turn on your high beams?

 

When I installed LED headlights only, yes. You need in-line head light resistors.

Some claim you only need one, but I installed two. One per headlight.

 

Did you buy the Motorcycle Headlight Load Resistor - H4 LED Headlight Bulbs - H4 Connection Load Resistor from super bright leds?

 

Yes. They have been on my silver truck since 2019? Long time. No issues with those.

 

I ended up buying canbus decoders from xtremevision that fixed the fog light issue. Then I later realized my high beam indicator wasn’t working. I thought I had it fixed…..I know it’s small but I would like to know the high beams are on, you know cause sometimes you forget. I’ve heard the load resistors get super hot. Can you tell me how you mounted each of them and where. If you have pictures that would be even more helpful. Thank you for being so helpful.

 

I have no pictures. I mounted them with jbweld steelstik right next to each headlight. I didn't drill a hole in nothing for it l.

They do get hot. Hot enough to burn your forearms. I mounted them behind the radiator support.

I can get you pictures later today

 

Also, I'm unfamiliar with those decoders. You do you, but real reason to get high tech on these trucks.

I would remove those before trying the resistors

 

Meant to post the other day which fixed my high beam indicator not illuminating.

I chose to install resistors on passenger side and instead of getting 2 H4-RL650-H which has 1 50W resistor in each box, I got the H4-RL650-M, which has 2-50W resistors in one box.

Had some AC sheet metal laying around and chose to create a platform to attach to since like any 100 watt bulb, it does get hot. Also, since I chose the location I did, needed an H4 extender cable. My local Napa had just what I needed....8" extender

Headlight Wiring Harness TEE HWH106 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)




Shouldn't matter but this was not for an LED install. This was on a Audi style DRL and halo, sequential turn signals with mini H1 projector and HID’s that @SouthPaw put together. Still holding up strong.

The ultimate headlight project | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)