Rotors that won't warp?

I think in the end it’s all the same. The point is the guy needs new rotors, wether it’s due to warping or lateral runout. Good luck OP and keep us updated!

 

Bought my truck used with 21k miles. Front brakes were already pulsing. Replaced with frozen rotors and Hawk LTS pads.

 

Thanks. Could you provide an example of a rotor with high carbon content? What is the product number of the duralast rotors you're using?

 

Mine are undoubtedly warped. I can see the runout inside the caliper if i take the wheel off and turn the hub by hand

 

Thanks, but i do have a torque wrench and I have always torqued 97 Ft lbs in a criss cross pattern. I do all my own work on the truck so I have ruled out things like this.

 

Ceramics from Wagner. My rotors are not drilled & slotted. Maybe the next ones i get will be if this is your experience.

 

Isnt warping just the term used when brakes shake? Using that term doesn’t mean the rotor is physically warped. It’s just the common term for it that people use. Like saying ‘hot’ water heater. Not sure why every rotor thread turns in to people correcting others and bragging about their mechanic experience.

 

If you are going to use ceramic then definitely upgrade your rotors to drilled / slotted, they will dissipate heat much more.

 

My experience from above, the rotors were "warped". At low speeds, no brake applied, they would squeak hitting the pads off and on. We could feel it in the brake pedal when braking as well.

 

. It’s a nice diversion from the transmission cooler threads...people love a good pissing contest.

 

Yep. Transmission cooler threads turn in to people bragging about being an engineer.

 

What if you were a mechanic that then went to school for engineering? Which thread could you pipe up in? Asking for a friend.

 

Quote of the thread: “I’m not a mechanic, but I play one on Tundras.com!”

 

ever look at the exterior of an enclosed trailer or metal roof in the sun?

 

The oil change at 3k, 5k, or 10k miles thread.

 

haha... there is something for everyone!

 

Po

I would insert 8k to be all inclusive........

 

I'll check in with my friend who is an industry consultant on brake rotors and has an invention for on-car or on-truck rotor geometry checks. He's helped me measure brake pads and my free-floating rotors that I use on my track car. I've run into a few issues and he helped measure the parts to determine the problems. For my track car I learned 1) Uneven pad deposition is real and is a huge watch out for a car that is tracked on a road course track. Pads claimed to be street/track pads seemed to be really prone to uneven pad deposition. Straight track-only pads were general fine. If you've never seen uneven pad deposition it looks like a leopard skin appearance on the rotor face. You have to get the lighting just right to see it. You will then feel a lot of brake pedal pulsation if severe. 2) New pads are not flat and really pretty pad for some big name companies. We measured some brand new, out of the box pads. Bedding the pad in per the manufactures recommendation is critical. It helps the pad "flatten" out under less aggressive wear conditions and mates with the rotor. What old pad that was on before the bedding process with the new pad matters and can impact whether or not you run into uneven pad deposition. Some folks install an aggressive "cleaning pad" to remove the old pad material from the rotor prior to installing the desired pad for the track. My track pads are so aggressive they seem to clean the rotor and bed-in great. 3) Rotor geometry has to be very precise not to get pulsation. I think the input is the rotors "clamped state" geometry matters. For that matter, the rotors clamped and hot state matters. I'll track down some more info from my friend. That's what I heard from my friend that consults within the industry. 4) I've seen one case on a brake job that I did for a street car where the rotor casting cracked where the internal air vanes intersect the rotor face. The rotor face then slightly protruded at this point and there was massive brake pedal pulsation. 1-2 month old new rotors did this! (I did get a refund) I only discovered the cause by getting the right lighting on the rotor and seeing a very faint bluing spot. I've read of the Tundra complaints on brakes so I know when it gets time to do a brake job I will track down what I think is a high quality rotor as a starting point and ask around for what pad works best. For my track car, I always used StopTech rotors but they were full floating rotors with aluminum hats and worked perfectly. I'll probably buy street StopTech rotors for the Tundra. Hopefully a few years from now! I hope that helps. Cheers.

 

I have been using Black Hart cross drilled n slotted rotors haven't warped on me almost through my first set of pads on them. an I do drive it Hard an whisper NasTundra the only thing I've noticed using them is brake dust from hell could be my driving habits , could be the pads , or could be the nature of cross drilled an slotted rotors. if you need any other brake parts on top due to service than just rotors an pads I would recommend a complete kit from Stopping Power or someone else.

but just for 4 Rotors an a 4 sets of ceramic pads $250 range isn't that bad....

 

best. Movie. Ever.

 

Stoptech, EBC, Advics, Akebono to name a few. I went with Autozones GT series since it was on a promo and they wanted to gain some business. No complaints so far. Prior to these i've ran Wagner pads and rotors. By far the worst brakes i've had on the truck. Advic's pads and rotor combos have been working out great for all our toyota customers.

 

Once you go cryo you never go back.



P.S. over torqued lugs can cause rotor issues as well.

Just wanted to add more fuel.

 

@SA183 if you find some that won’t warp, let me know… my stock ones warped, bought PowerStop Heavy Duty Truck (drilled and slotted) Rotors and they warped after 20k. It has to be something to do with Toyota’s braking system or the lack of airflow for cooling… my wife’s RAV4 did it, her Highlander did it… every Toyota I have ever driven, that had more than 60k on it, shimmied when you applied the brakes. Idk

 

Replacement Calipers push the pads too tight. Causes problems with the Rotors. Select good Calipers and the problem goes away. Not Toyota but the Parts the parts store sell thas the fact of choice ! I chose slotted rotors at 150,000 miles with decent calipers and Pads. Sure the originals were worn and showed heat crack on the back sides if them, they also had 100,000 miles of interstate driving and hard slow downs. Of course I don't believe the Tundra has equivalent brakes to a Trailer Tow F150, absolutely not, but for 130,000 miles the Tundra truck is as most are, a (garage queen) & is a great truck !

 

Drilled and slotted rotors are famous for that, especially PowerStops. You want slotted only. The StopTech Sport slotted only, cryo treated are the way to go. I have a post somewhere showing the hot spots that my PowerStops had. They were so bad that my steering wheel shook without even touching the brakes.

 

I picked up StopTech cryo drilled & slotted. Hopefully all will be well since they’re cryo.

 

I put these on my 2014 and had no issues. I am a very hard braking driver.

 

Good to hear