Cant open my door with dead battery

Smh

 

Tomorrow I m going to try to rig up an alternate way of opening hood from the outside. Maybe a stout wire that runs from the latch to to one of the front fender wells. Just reach in there, pull the wire, and boom, hood opens. This could be a mod in the making

 

So how much are windows

 

See post #23 above.

 

How is that going to work if the lights are not on?

 

...about as easy as using the starter

 

At least the starter has a direct connection to the battery, right?

These new fangled machines confuse me...

My 1969 Ford Fairlane was so much simpler...
No power door locks, no power windows, NO POWER STEERING...

 

Yes, that's when they put all the power into the engine.

 

Starter would be best, but impossible to get too, but need to run a second battery to try to get some voltage, hoping enough to open the door

 

And I thought only the starter on a 4.7L was impossible to get to.

 

A locksmith can get into it. It’s got electric door actuators, but also has manual door locks. If the driver’s side is failed in some way, the passenger side can still be done. I had to have it done once on my 2008 (locked the keys inside it). Thank God for keeping AAA on my rigs.

 

A battery charger if you have one, would also work.

 

getting some insight, but still doesn't answer why the key doesn't open the door, might as well throw in the garbage, funny this happen one year ago in Dec battery was dead but the key opened the door. Stumped

 

When you turn the key can you feel any resistance or hear any noise, or is it completely loose when you turn it side to side?

 

What about the +/- terminals in the 7 pin trailer plug? Anybody know off hand if the aux pin is always hot or keyed hot? If it is always hot, then they are labeled and will make it easy to identify which is which.

 

Completely loose,

 

Good call...

Is the + BATT or ACC?
I think it is all the time or maybe not??

 

I am no electrician nor certified tech in any stretch or capacity, but...

I strongly oppose the tapping of any circuit to jump start the battery... quickest way to make a hefty obligatory contribution to your local stealerships, as I'm sure they will be more than happy and willing to redo the entire electrical system as well as ECUs.. while voiding the warranty in the process.... in today's pandemic I'm sure they have an at your home service technician who can probably do whatever you want to do, except you can sue them for their screw up instead of bricking your truck.. and coming out of your pockets for repairs, and the electrical gremlins that will follow....

 

OP isn't trying to jump start the battery/engine.
He can't even into his truck to get his key into the ignition switch to turn it on.

He just wants to unlock the fu(king door with his remote and needs minimal power to the electrical system to do so....

Pay attention..................................................

 

Thanks for letting the guilty remain anonymous.

 

did you try changing the battery on the key fob

 

I know this doesn't get you out of your predicament but a future mod can really help if this ever happens again or to anyone else. I've got one of these cables in my shop I'm going to install on mine this weekend due to the OP's situation (it may save my tail later on).

Wire this directly to your battery. Run the capped end somewhere behind your grill or hanging down behind the bumper (make it reachable with the hood closed).

The idea is NOT to boost your truck with it, but to provide that little bit of charge so that your door lock actuators can unlock your door. OR/AND you can also connect a trickle charger (battery tender) and charge you battery over a few hours with it.

SAE Motorcycle battery charger cable


Since this comes in a 2 pack, the extra one can be used to hook up to a battery charger, battery etc.

$10 [2 PACK] SPARKING 2FT Motorcycle Battery Charger Cord, Sae to O Ring Terminal Quick Disconnect Assembly Extension Cable, Sae 2Pin Wire Harness Reverse Polarity Adapter Port Accessory, 10A Fuse

https://www.amazon.com/SPARKING-Motorcycle-Disconnect-Extension-Accessory/dp/B07KS2GCXJ

I'm not sure what size fuse comes with it, but I would install a 20 or 30 amp fuse. That is what I run on my motorcycle anyway.

Battery Tender - comes with the SAE connector on it.
https://www.batterytender.com/Battery-Tender-Junior-12V-0-75A

 

Auto club would be my choice, lights n' stuff go thru relays which should be cold w/o any power.
7 pin would be the logical choice if its a constant hot.

G/L!

 

Check your insurance company. Some polices have a lock out service.

 

Now the bad news. I assumed all the suggestions (back-feed electricity) through the license plate light, tail light, any light, or 7 pin connector would not work. So, sitting here at work with some REALLY smart avionics guys tonight, I asked one of them to look at the schematic in post #47 above and confirm what I had assumed. ALL of the lights, 7 pin connectors, etc are interrupted by a relay. Put plainly, none of the electrical current will get to the battery from those points without the relay being closed (they are ALL in the open position when the key is off or lights are off).

The only chance you have is to connect to the positive wire on the starter to be able to charge the battery enough to be able to unlock your doors.

If you can't get that done, a lock smith is probably your wisest choice.


EDIT: Just read @Devius1 post (2 posts above). He is saying the same thing.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D6MWJNN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_Q7VYK30QTWJCGQV8NN4J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do you have a blood pressure cuff? Works the same.

 

This seems like a really good idea.

 

DO NOT USE 24 VOLTS!! Your truck is 12V.

 

....and the starter and alternator in plain site. One coil. One voltage regulator. Simple bliss

 

Also not susceptible to damage from EMP weapons. Sooner or later this will become important.