What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

How did you mount the HiLift base?

 

I removed the bulge, removed the plastic grill assembly. Cut the plastic welds on the grill screen and installed Sloan Flexibrite Led neon light. Installed it all back and ran wire thru the hood and out a hole in the back. Used a fuse tap in the fuse block under the hood. I did this on my last tundra with Blue flexibrite.

 

Interesting. Just looked at the Sloan FlexiBrite product and their other stuff. So I assume this is more of a glow then actual useable light? Did you just tie in to your DRL?

 

It’s just mounted with T-nuts on the bed rails with little knobs for easy removal

 

Fuse tap into the ignition fuse.

 

Yes just an accent light.

 

Added a little Tufskinz love to the ol console

 

Is that a speaker installed in the console?

 

WITNESS.

 

Today I changed my oil with Shell Rotella Gas Truck.
Transmission drain/fill with Toyota WS. Didn’t drop the pain because local dealer doesn’t carry gasket or filter. Dealer also had it 1 qt overfilled.
Also did my Diffs and T-Case with Ravenol respectively. T-Case was 0.5qt low. The Ravenol is strange with the 75w-85 being Red like ATF (pic attached). Reached out to the company and they verified it was correct. May just switch to Amsoil (depends on shipping cost) or Mobil 1.
I got my Eco BumperShellz last week but have been too lazy to tackle that with 10 degree weather.
I used this Drill Pump for everything besides motor oil and it was tits.

TOOLGUY REPUBLIC Transmission...

$140 Tool Guy Republic Transmission Service Kit Fluid Transfer Pump - Powered by an Air Ratchet or Cordless Drill

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08431ZFYY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

I have 5100s all around. Front on highest setting with 2 CB shims on Driver and 1 shim on Passenger. CB +3” shackles in the rear.

 

Installed bed lights and started wiring/controls for rock lights. Added a switch in the dash and a local latching pushbutton switch in the bed for more flexibility. Bed lights operate independently of cargo lights and other accessories.

Before...


After...

$19 XUNATA 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 600 Units SMD 5054 LEDs(5050 Upgraded), 12V DC Waterproof IP67 Light Strips, LED Ribbon, DIY Christmas Home Kitchen Indoor Party Decoration (Blue)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DVHZQDX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

$10 19mm Latching Push Button Switches SPDT ON/Off Waterproof Black Metal 12V Ring LED with Wire Plug (Blue)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076GY9WNC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

Made the hump to 35’s.

Method 312’s in 17 mounted to Toyo Open Country r/t. Total chaos upper controls and soon some Kings coil overs when they actually ship them. This back order from Kings is beyond ridiculous. Approaching 2.5 months of waiting.

 

This weekend I got around to finally installing the Alpharex tail lights on my 3rd Gen
Also at the same time I installed some VLED bulbs in the reverse lights, 3rd brake light, cargo lights and license plate bulbs

 

Yes for my CB

 

I plan on replacing the center dash speaker for my external on my kenwood. Where’d you put your face plate?

 

Or use your thumb??

 

I tried that... didn’t feel right.

 

That would mess with my OCD so bad...lol.

 

Yeah... I’ve been researching alternative switches that don’t have the word “REAR” on them.

this orientation matches how the 4Runner switch sits, but that switch is a different shape and won’t work.

 

Can’t you just take the text off the switch? Scrape it or use acetone or something

 

Face plate? I have the CB mounted to my overhead light console

 

Do you have the PN?

 

Was also considering something like that too. I’ve only had the switch in the new spot 24 hours, and only turned it around about 13 hours ago, so haven’t dug too deep yet.

 

Thanks for pointing this out. My switch is in the same place and I just felt something was off about it since moving it.
Right now I use my thumb, and rolling it up is awkward.
Its obviously way better than the factory location, but I'm turning mine around tomorrow.

 

I didn't have to remove anything for my AJT start button ring. Just pop the chrome one off and pop the new on on.

 

After a month wait, got the BAMuffler dropped off by FedEx and installed ASAP. Couldn't be any happier.

This is the 6" Standard system, and I requested for the Helmholtz to be welded on by @dirtydeeds prior to being shipped out. Reason being - in case I've gotta modify it as a "dump" style exit for future rear suspension clearance, the resonator will already be on. Keith will be the first to tell you that it's not the most ideal placement of the resonator, but it will definitely help. As a couple people have done with their BAM systems on here, I've also replaced the factory clamp at the rear with a proper Vibrant v-band clamp (p/n:

$29 1491C Stainless Steel Quick Release V-Band Clamp

1491C) for peace of mind.

- Volume level: rowdy as advertised. You will be heard, bottom line. Anything over half throttle input, it growls - even more rowdy in Tow/Haul mode.

- Drone level: very tiny rpm window where it slightly drones(around 1700-1900 rpm), but only at very low speeds(ie: stop/go around town) because these transmissions chase lockup so aggressively. I'd imagine if the resonator was in the "normal location" on tailpipe section, this may not happen at all. At highway speeds, there is absolutely no drone.

- Sound quality: 10/10. Best balance of throaty and rasp. The 6" system is great for folks who want a loud(er) volume, raspier tone, but still relatively controllable with the gas pedal.

- Gains? At the moment, indiscernible. Maybe, I just need more seat time? I'll take Keith's word for it.





Sound clip: (headphones for a more immersive sound)






-Matt

 

The +2 shackle is only 1" lift. The +1 is a little over .5". Either way, you shouldn't need more than 1" of lift in the rear to maintain a little rake with the 5100s on the top setting.
As far as the shop saying you need the 5100 rears, that's only if you raise the rear, since the stock shocks aren't really meant for more height. if you go top setting in the front and want to add height in the rear then you should consider the 5100 rear shocks as well.

 

New head unit today.

 

Wow that is beading up nice!

PS– love that quote in your sig lol