What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

With your elbow on the console, having the switch positioned like this is more natural to push/pull it for opening/closing the window with your finger. It matches the position that the main window switches are in. Otherwise you sort of have to turn your hand backwards to pull up on the switch.

 

Super magnets.

 

Cool on both notes. I'll give the ring a shot because their DIY on the switch leaves the dash on. Always been my complaint about the AJT start button. They do an applique for the vents but not the start button? LOL damn I'm lazy

 

Casey, you have a overhead blue LED shining down?

 

No, it's the camera switch. The light in the camera switch is about two or three "clicks" brighter than the rest of the factory buttons/switches, and it is also more vivid blue compared to the factory light blue. So it produces a similar effect to the LED that was/is in the Gen 2 consoles. Also, that picture was taken this morning shortly after sunrise, so there's "morning dawn" light in play as well.

 

Cut the bottom tab to mimic the stock one. Very simple to do with a dremel. Used a piece of cardboard to draw out the cut out pattern. Then used the drawing to trace the shape on the new tab. Cut it out and slide it in.

 

Is there a write up or a video to help do this?

 

So I've read a bunch of threads on here and now I'm more confused. I don't have any real knowledge on lifts, so any advice will help. I spoke with a guy at a specialty lift and 4x4 shop, and he suggested doing the adjustable 5100s up front to level it. I wanted it at the highest setting, and read here that I should put a 1 inch block in the rear if the front is at highest setting. This guy said no, that I'd need to put the 5100s in the back so it wouldn't stretch something out (I forget exactly what). Does this sound correct? Am I being had? Anyone have better suggestions? The 5100s are top of my budget keep in mind. All this is already at 1500 plus tax Canadian.

 

Some have had different results using 5100s on top setting. On my truck, the front was about 1/4" higher than the rear, so I ended up raising the rear as well.

 

5100s in the rear don't provide any lift just better performance over stock. They will accommodate up to an inch of lift via shackles or blocks. I set mine on the middle because I didn't want to lift the rear any and it to be level. Tundras will appear nose high if your fender to ground measurements front and rear are the same. Here is mine right after I had mine installed. They are set on the middle setting 1.57".

 

All my mods are linked in the build thread, which is linked in my signature.
The actual window switch relocate is linked here (and that post has a link to the harness I used), but it also ties in with the console switch blank that I 3D printed myself (link for that is also in my build thread - see the first post).
https://www.tundras.com/threads/caseys-2021-lunar-rock-trd-pro-build.77317/page-8#post-2078995

There is another user on here who prints/sells a very similar console switch plate - you can find him on facebook at CN Designs or here under username @Rocfrog

 

Do you happen to have a pic with the end result? Thanks for responding as well

 

Thanks man! That looks great.

 

Thanks Matt

 

YUP!. I already ordered from CNDesigns & just waiting on the item to arrive. I just wanted a heads up or instructions to get it right! Thanks for your help!

 

Installed my high-vis flag ...

 

Here is 5100 on top setting, rear is stock.

 

Here is 5100 on top setting and Coachbuilder +2 shackle.

 

That's better! So 5100 top height for front, 5100 rear with a 2 inch block, or shackle? Or would the 1 inch in the rear with 5100 still get a bit of rake?

 

Blocks ride rough.

 

Thanks, that's good to know. So ask for shackles with the rear 5100s?

 

Aftermarket shackles will always be a better option than a block. Stock shackles have splined bushings and don't articulate well. Shackles such as Toytec or Coachbuilder use poly bushings. I had a Readylift space and block kit for about a year and a half before I switched to coilovers and shackles. Night and day difference.

 

Cleaned her up it’s been a while since the last wash..

 

Added LED Neon to my little grill.

 

Added a Plano field box in the bed rail for storage, easy access for tie down straps, etc. Also the sticker for +5 hp

 

Drove it to work and got rained on. . . Love my ceramic!

 

Sold them for asking price, which was $500, they went fast, should have asked for more

 

1

@poheller how did you mount the light bar behind the bulge plastic insert/front piece. Did you reinstall the actual bulge housing (black piece that attached to the bulge). Looks real good. Nice job!