What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

https://monkeyfabgarage.com/product...sembly-stainless-steel-quick-disconnect-clamp

super nice guy, stupid fast shipping

 

I’ll keep those in mind. On my Tacoma I made my own flanges that used Toyota gaskets just for the ease of getting new gaskets.

 

Nice, his copper gaskets only run like 7$! And it’s like a real piece of copper, check them out

 

Oh I bet they’re great. I was meaning for emergency repairs. (Unlikely) lol

 

So I was also going to put flex pipes on my straight pipes; so those will be on 99% of the time including off-roading, in case I bump them. I like your idea of a removes left tailpipe for off roaring. If I can’t keep it high enough maybe that’s an option I can look into, bed side dump would be cool AF though

 

Does the factory exhaust even have a flex joint? I was wondering if I should put. One in for each bank

 

There is a weird thing near the transfer case heat sink, not the heat sink itself but almost something that could be a flex joint? I’m tempted to put them in because why not? And also that other member that had some strange flex cracks possibly.
I do wheel a decent amount and feel like it would be worth it and a peace of mind

 

those are weights for resonance

 

Recently ordered:
- Dobinson IFP Front Struts
- Dobinson 314 Springs
- SPC UCA
All from Mike at ExitOffroad (thanks Mike!). Looking forward to getting them on next week. Waiting on their rear monotube non remote resi to come out.

Also coming in next week:
Stealth Custom Series F5 17x9 -38 Matte Dark Bronze

STOKED!









My truck:

 

I always just fill it until it runs out. I did it a few weeks ago and got a little more than 3 quarts in.

 

Well, where would you start on correcting that?

I have no reason to believe these numbers are inaccurate. Running rich would explain the "hotter feel" in the bay, and would explain the fuel loss.

 

I’ve had issues with non oe injectors pushing too Much fuel.

 

In that case whats your ltft @Tundra2 ? (Long term fuel trim)

 

That was my first thought also. I am running 48 more fuel holes than stock injectors (24 stock vs 72 dirtydeeds) They tested out fine, and I thought that the extra holes would help atomize the fuel thats being squirted in.

I'll see what six denso 4-holes would run.

 

Showing my engine ignorance here, by saying no clue.

I'll see if my scanner can read that. I turned a lot of the options off for easier read on the video. I may have turned that one off too by mistake since I was doing it on the fly.

 

Interesting. I wonder why 4 didn't fill mime up. Did you do it while the fluid was warm? I did it cold. Truck on a slight decline.

 

Ltft long term fuel trim and short term. Negative is pulling fuel, positive is adding fuel. Long and short should add up to roughly 5-0% + or minus.

 

I just go until it spills over, maybe in the early manuals they got their conversions messed up because I believe they state the transmission pan only holds 2 qt’s which is wrong as well.

 

Im guessing nose end facing down? That would be why. Supposed to be checked when level.


An extra quart won't hurt anything. On the smaller 6.7" diff (rwd car) which are 1.3L factory fill capacity, some are filled with just over 3qts. This is so under G-load the fluid doesn't fill the axle tube and leave the gears dry mid sweeper.

 

All done.

-2.5” Toytec boss coil overs
-JBA UCA
-OEM lower ball joints
-Front sway bar links
-Front diff serviced and extracted stripped drain plug
-New drums, shoes and hardware
-Both rear wheel seals

With any luck, I’ll have the new wheels and tires on tomorrow but most likely Tuesday.

 

level ground, cold

 

I don't recall if I ever gave a follow up regarding the header issue. It turns out the reason my header was cracking is likely because of the JBA Y-pipe that I have installed. It has a weird (likely put of spec) twist in it that was putting a lot of twisting stress on that one header. This stress was especially bad when I would hit bumps while off-roading. My cat delete got rid of that stress, but it was pretty obvious when I was pulling everything apart.

Are you sure it's resonance? It really seemed like they were counter weights to help pivot on the hanger and reduce downward stress on the exhaust manifolds.

I have no idea and you'd be the expert more than me though.

 

This is exactly what I was thinking.

The sensors are feeding back into the ecu to perfect the A/F ratio though, right? I wouldn't think a 12 pin injector that pushes the same cc's would change too much. I think mine actually leaned out my long term fuel trims when I did it.

 

Typically heavy weights on exhaust or drivetrain components are for resonance. It adds mass to kill noise or vibration. In this case, likely vibration.

 

Thats interesting. I also have the JBA y pipe, maybe from the way I bolted it up I am not seeing stress that way. The flange from my driver side cat to the y doesn't align properly though and there is a small exhaust leak there. One day I will cut the pipe to realign it but that day won't come soon.

 

Honestly if I do headers the way I’m thinking I might just use a spring bolt pivot style flange for the exhaust to be able to articulate a little bit at the collectors

 

The. Again, RWD engine layouts typically don’t need any flex... so I may not. As long as the exhaust isn’t forcing in any direction on the collectors you shouldn’t have any issue

 

Flex pipe section might not be bad. Something like this

 

im not a huge fan of those just because they love to break at 5-8 years old out here

 

Before I record this next video, I found my long fuel trim, and short fuel trim.

Leaving both exhaust sensors. Vehicle speed, engine speed, and coolant temp.

Anything else I should add to help you guys help me?