What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have no idea what that means. Remember, I don't know dick about wiring. All I'm trying to do is disconnect my trailer brake controller so I don't have power running to those wires I had to cut. I thought they were telling me to remove both wires from the positive terminal. I did that, and lost all power to the truck. I just hooked the other one back up( the one that runs to the fuse box) and I have power again. Still unclear if I successfully disabled the brake controller.

 

The trailer plug, the one you had to cut off at your rear bumper. The same one that was all fubar after your last sporting event.

Was that a 4 pin "flat" connector, or a "round" looking connector?

I'm going to bet that since you mentioned a brake controller that you had the 5 or 7 round connector.

Leave fuse box power on. Have a cheap multi-meter? Can test the cut wires to see if there is still power when the wifey presses the brakes. (Can Google a pin out of a 5 blade, or 7 blade connector to see which wire did what)

On my truck, at the rear, there is a plug in the harness that runs down to my 4 pin flat connector for trailer lights only.

In the engine bay I have the same harness as you plugged into the same connector as you show here.

I have no idea where the rest of the trailer bull shit comes from.

 

My bad. I'm with ya now. The one I removed was a round 7 pin. It ran to the flat 4 pin so all I had to do is unplug it. I'm assuming that means I could still tow with the 4 pin in a pinch.
There were two wires that ran from the 7 pin which I had to cut.

 

I know you had 2 circuit breakers on your fender wall. Do both of them go to that one wire you pulled off the battery?

 

That's really interesting that someone in your trucks past life mounted an adapter, then plugged the 4 into that, and THEN ran an additional two wires for what I'm assuming is the brake controller wires to your trailer.



I'm at my limit of being helpful with this job so I'm bowing out, and letting somebody else take the floor.

 

I believe at one early generation point the 7 pin was not a factory option. So that may be the case here, the 4 pin is likely tied to a taillight converter hidden somewhere back there and then the brake controller wiring added to the 7 pin.

 

The Brake controller isn't factory, So your factory wiring Won't be what I would think is controlling it. Those firewall mounted breakers should be connected to the battery. Trace them back to their power source and you can disconnect them there, or pull the fuse that powers them.

 

No. Two run into the cab through the firewall, one runs to the back of the truck it seems. The others run to the fuse box. So now I'm
not clear what I removed from the battery.

 

I’m not sure what you removed from the battery either.

but, if you remove those two from the fuse box, your problem should be in the clear. Follow that wire from the battery and see where it goes.

 

It's the one I showed above, it says trailer light power fuse but it runs to a factory plug near the battery. I guess I'll reconnect this one and just disconnect the 2 from the fuse box.

 

But where does it go after the plug?

 

It ties into what looks like a main wiring harness.

 

The one your holding is separate power for the trailer lights so that a short on the trailer doesn't kill your trucks lights.

 

I’m sensing a Zzzzttt!!! story coming up.

 

Nah. I've been disconnecting the battery each time I mess with something. Even the mangler gets it right occasionally.

 

Snapped a shot of the Himalayan Sheepskin Covers. From the looks, these seem to come from the Southern Facing Sloped Herd recognized by their shifting shimmering sheen. The North Slope Herd has a more mono-Matte finish.

Here they are hanging like Sensei taught us to do from Tradition.

 

that's one big coon eh?

 

Yes. They were Earth Friendly Sheep. The Herd was humanely put down during a Full Moon Sacrifice.

 

Got the center console back in place. Have the front seats just set in place, but the $45 gamble on a used driver window control let me roll the rear windows down. Can also control them from the passenger controls in the back now too.

Have a few final things to do. I did order some new weatherstripping for the roof but it's not in yet. When I cleaned all the weatherstripping out I did find a CLUMP of debris in the area where the leak was showing up in cabin. Maybe this was causing a dam and forcing the water to go places it shouldn't/doesn't normally. The weatherstripping on the roof is kind of loose and can be easily moved left/right within the channel. Hopefully the combination of these two things will help me get a little further down the road with this roof.

 

Remind me what it was doing before. Was it that the drivers side would roll down, the passenger from the driver side but not the passenger side and the rear not at all?

 

The front windows could be controlled only at driver side. None of the windows worked at their controls. This seems to have solved it, but I need to test front passenger control. Just realized I didn’t test that one. I could hear clicks at the rear when using the driver control, they just didn’t roll down.

My keyless also was randomly working/not working. Will be a bit before I’m certain on that.

 

Here's my plan...



This way I get sheepskin AND heated seats.....

 

Looks like a right hand drive. Might be a New Zealand Sheep. That Ham Hocks Fur would make for some nice Arm Rests.

 

what was the census on upper and lower control arms? OEM or did I hear @empty_lord say he used MOOG or something and was ok with it. Also, Amazon has Freedom Offroad uppers for about $340/set?

 

I used Napa per reccomendation of @empty_lord.

I can't find the links at the moment.

 

personally i wouldnt trust freedom offroad uppers.. spend a wee bit more and get SPC or if you really want uniball, camburgs. Napa control arms are what i used on my truck.. cant complain

 

I don’t really want anything better than stock, just figuring at 209K they should be replaced. They are stock now so new stock would be fine with me. I have oem upper ball joints I’d rather press into new arms and just replace uppers and lowers at the same time.

 

Another option for upper control arms are JBA.

 

I went with Moog and recommend them.

 

Snapped in the Dorman Side View Mirrors today. Drivers side went in easily. Pass side I had to knife off some of the nub inside the center pivot to allow it to snap in.