What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

be careful with a tape job - you might want to just disconnect them under the hood as well. One of them will be the trailer brake activation wire, and one will be 12V power.

 

Lots of good quality videos out there on YT. It's not that bad, especially if you have a basic skill set for doing mechanical work. Only special tool needed is the crank pulley removal tool.

$21 E-cowlboy for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts

https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Crank...a-782479832855&psc=1&ref=&adgrpid=76361197332

 

I feel the same way. On other cars I feel scared but will do the timing belt. On my truck I just feel overwhelmed by it. Too many cams and too expensive if it goes wrong.

 

And only needing to do it once a decade prevents remembering anything about what you did last time. Practice makes perfect....

 

You're talking about the 2 going to the battery?




I also have 2 sets of wires mounted to the firewall.

 

Rear end went out of Bertha rolling 55. Coasted to the safe zone.

Due to a miscommunication Mom, and I both showed up to retrieve poppa.

 

I have a similar setup in my 4runner. Those are breakers. I would just disconnect the battery from those if that is an option until you fix your 7 pin.

 

Seat Covers came in today. Looks and feels high quality Himalayan Back Country Sheeps Skins.

 

You’ll have to forgive @Professional Hand Model he’s new and doesn’t know all the rules and customs.

 

Care to share? I’m looking for some different ideas.

 

Correct, I’d just unhook them right from the battery and not worry about the other end. Tuck em out of sight.

 

Well the epoxy attempt for the sunvisor pivot did not work, as expected. Just scraped partly off.


Some in channel window visors from the rainforest warehouse showed up. They were still new and unopened lol. Awesome deal for <$12 & free shipping.


Installed:



There wasn't enough light left this afternoon to install my bumper trim, now that it has had time for the paint to cure.

 

Hopefully this makes since.

 

How many white tail you seeing out there? That area looks awesome. Hope Bertha gets back on the road

 

I think you meant to quote me?

Anyways, I see a few from time to time
https://youtu.be/v_GdPPUDg3Q
https://youtu.be/DiqvBJiNqWQ
https://youtu.be/BlivxUJHEP4
https://youtu.be/mRQV9pNUOak
Power lines, raccoons, and birds too.
https://youtu.be/OM6SVfA06Zg
https://youtu.be/Dr9tHRgxiSY
https://youtu.be/G4i0blmm5jg
https://youtu.be/F_O8cY9RoYk
https://youtu.be/9xLgilxanNg
https://youtu.be/_e8JSqcj4xY


Not sure how tempting pushing Bertha into the tent of pain is... may contract that job out if the quote is right.

 

I think I’m even more confused after trying to figure this out.

 

The first picture is looking up at the shell the lines you see run down to the hand winch on the wall straight ahead. The lines just have loops that I stick around each bolt. So to take the shell off I take the nut off each corner. Then I lift each corner and put the loop around the bolt . Thats the hardest part. Sometime in the next few months I will get a rack on the shell then it will be a 5 minute job.

 

Still trying to picture it. Looks like the first picture is from the passenger side. That would mean the winch is on the driver side. How are you lifting the shell from only the two passenger corners?

 

Yeah, and there are two more lines on the driver side. You can kind of see the four blocks up there with pulleys on them.

 

Wish I could also be dusting my engine bay instead of sticking a shop crane in it! Finally got the ole' 2UZ-FE pulled the other day and am moving right along with the replacement. Hardest part was separating the transmission/torque converter, I can see why some might pull the tranny with it. Did my best organizing all the bolts, nuts, and parts---during the heat of pulling only a couple of wire harnesses didn't get disconnected until the engine was hanging, there are a lot of random grounds, sensors, and loom clips on this motor and I hope I remember where they all go!

Everything looks decent for the amount of miles it had, of course aside from the head gasket blowing, and rust. Couple of questions on what to replace vs swap over to the newer engine:

•Motor mounts,
Mine look okay, but I probably should replace them as I'll never be able to again.
-Any good aftermarket brands that aren't basically $100 apiece like Toyota's?
-Anyone used Moog?

•Starter,
It's a B to replace without the engine pulled, but mine still works fine with 260k miles.
-I have no way of knowing if it's original, but would you replace it?
-Where can I get the heavy duty cold weather version?

•Alternator,
This one I'm sure is original! It looks ancient and works just fine.
-Should I simply replace the brushes (the part that actually wears) and call it a day?
-Or not take the chance of a roadside repair?
If I was like @Professional Hand Model I'd be fancy and measure resistance, etc. to judge its life, but alas, I'm not.

•Sensors,
Again, everything worked; however, I'm not against preventative maintenance while it's easy.
-What should be bought new? The 4 O2 sensors? Crankshaft position, throttle position, and water temperature sensors?
-Unfortunately one of the wires came out of one of my knock sensor's harness. Is there a fix?

Other parts I'm replacing include timing belt kit (w/water pump), manifold, plenum, and exhaust manifold gaskets, miscellaneous other gaskets, O-rings, and bolts. I'll swap over my new valve cover gaskets, restored valve covers, new spark plugs, and all the other bits and pieces the used engine won't come with.

I'll be restoring my stock headers as I'm not ready to do an exhaust overhaul. I'll be painting many components with high heat paint like those and heat shields. I'm most excited for a) the truck to run again, and b) the Dirty Deeds re-manufactured 12-hole injectors y'all seem to swear by! I think in the end it's going to run tons better than ever.

 

Mounts: If they are ok then reuse them, but you gone this far so spending extra is ok?

Starter: Your local stealer should have the 2.0kw.

Alternator: $150 for a rebuild Denso is a no brainer. The bushings/etc cost $20-30 so just a little more for factory rebuilt.

Sensors: Get all new Densos o2’s. The other sensors like crank and cam @empty_lord said should be ok keeping original as the don’t go bad. Unfortunately, the Knock Sensor is mangled and those are touchy. Not sure how to fix.

@theblurry1

 

Pretty cool system you have.

 

What do you mean by this? Are you installing short tube headers? The engine pictured doesn't have them. Now would be a great time to install shorties which doesn't require you to change anything with the exhaust.

 

Stevinsons Toyota participates in the Toyota online program and they have pretty good pricing and it's local so no shipping. McGeorge is still slightly cheaper even with shipping, but it's nice to go pick it up in two days and if I have a warranty issue I can just take it back..

 

I meant I'm just restoring what I have, because I heard on here that short tube headers aren't worth it and offer little to no HP/torque gain, while long tubes do have benefits, but require changing out other exhaust parts.

 

Thats what Kieth at DD told me last week. Thanked him for not taking my money.

 

Thanks for reading all of that! Hahaha so basically buy all the things, huh. At least I can sell many of the old parts and recoup some of the funds. Good to know about the other sensors not really going out, that's new info to me. I'll look more into the knock sensor harness stuff, I don't see why I couldn't solder on a new harness connector. Appreciate the opinion on the mounts and starter.

Yep, they are usually my go-to, but I found an out-of-state Toyota that is way cheaper, I'll price out both and see if a trip into Denver is still less expensive than the other's with shipping.

I feel like this is the anthem of many "performance upgrades." I don't know much about modifying engines, I just know most bolt-on parts---cold air intakes, throttle body spacers, headers, and even tuners---don't yield nearly as much added HP as promised, and one can drop a lot of money on placebos or tiny increases.

Amazon has some "performance"

$117 ENA Blue 8 Ignition Coil 4.3 4.7 V8 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 205 2006 2007 2008 2009 Compatible with Toyota Lexus Tundra Sequoia Land Cruiser 4Runner LX470 GX470 GS430 LS430 SC430 Coils for UF230

coil packs for the 4.7, I'd be interested to see if anyone's running them over the Densos (and yes, I know OEM are undisputed reliability-wise). If they actually are an upgrade, I might not even benefit from them with stock fuel pump, etc.

 

Maybe I misunderstood. I unhooked those from the battery and I now have now power at all. One of those wires runs into the bottom of the fuse panel. I'm guessing this one needs to be hooked back up to the battery?



The other runs to a connector beside the battery.

 

Was that the 4 flat connector or the 5?/7?-Round?

(Every automobile we've ever owned has used the 4 flat so I can never remember the other two. )