The Ultimate Headlight H4, Fog Light and Revers Light Upgrade Not LED or HID 1st Gen Tundra Addition

Sounds like you guys are wanting something like the Morimoto M LED 2.0 ($370). Here is what they say about their performance.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bi-led-morimoto-m-led-2-headlight-projectors-P-M-LED2?quantity=1

 

I’ll be trying these Osram Reverse Bulbs out (860 Lumen). They’ll replace current 2 year old Sylvania LED Zevos (Lumen unknown but someone tested at 360 Lumen) which replaced stock LL Sylvanias (264 Lumen). Total cost with ship $22. Good reviews from quite a few Taco guys and one Tundra guy.

Because they are/will be in reverse for short periods I am not overly concerned with the 2 extra amp draw (see next following post). Also, I was considering some LED Rigid Cubes under the truck for reverse which is extra work and more stuff to break not to mention $$$. Those are on hold until further notice.

 

Back up circuit looks to be 10amp connected with 15amp ACC circuit. The back up circuit also ties into the Tow Package which has its own 30amp circuit with relays etc.

Osram bulbs will consume 6amps (factory consumes 3amps) on a 10amp total circuit. Seems like extra wiggle room on the 10amp circuit. Anyone see the same? Looks like a diode and reverse bulb will take up some amps.

 

Don't forget it also powers the cluster and possibly other interior lights. If you converted those to LED and run LED reverse on your trailer I don't see there being a problem. Reduced amp draw elsewhere to free up power for the new reverse bulbs.

 

My total interior lighting bulbs and some of my climate panel bulbs are LED. Nothing on the trailer is LED, but I could add LED just to the trailer reverse assys to free up more Amps.

The diagram looks like the 10amp fuse only has the 2 reverse assy bulbs and one dash reverse bulb on it along with a diode. What do you see?

 

10a fuse also powers:
12v ign sense for alternator
A/C recirc/fresh air motor and defrost switch & part of the climate control panel
Neutral safety switch & gear selection display on cluster. Also leads to cruise control, abs &/or vsc modules
Speed sensor
Heated mirrors sw & relay (trigger)
Auto dim mirror if equipped
Heater relay (trigger) & blower switch


Most are low draw (ma).

 

Thanks for this. Posted is a pic of what doesn’t apply in my case. Also, ABS won’t be in effect in reverse mode (thinking out loud). Wonder what the total factory draw on this circuit is on my truck BEFORE adding 3Amps? Then back off the stuff which is N/A or reduced by LEDs in panel.

Someone (@bmf4069)? said most Fuses are rated at 20% higher than their load. For instance, 10Amp circuit draws about 8Amps. The 20% is a safety net. Looks like I’m on the edge under full load?

 

Pull the fuse and put a multimeter on it instead to do an amp draw test. Many can handle a 10a load.


You'll probably be fine though.

 

Yeah. Will do. Its been raining for Days here on Fantasy Island. The Himalayan Monsoons are still hanging around.

 

I will be purchasing these backup bulbs and doing the harness upgrade for the headlights with new bulbs (maybe the higher wattage?). I will report back. I'll use the "truck didn't burn down"-o-meter to report my findings. Very scientific.

 

Keep us posted on your progress. I have run these in 3 vehicles now with now issues on any reverse wiring. For the money you cannot go wrong.

 

For the extra $32 I definitely recommend the higher wattage bulbs. The harness upgrade is definitely noticeable but the upgraded bulbs are a huge and cheap improvement.

 

Purchased all necessary parts for the headlight, fog light and reverse upgrade. About a C-note on big gurrl. Had to sift through the available wire harnesses. Many are not heavy duty wiring. I may have to remove and add some 12ga. wire to all the power leads and rebuild the harness if it looks too wimpy on arrival. I'll do some pics in stages to try to demonstrate whatever difference the upgrade makes. Also need to polish the old headlights and fog lights up. Went with Hella 100/80w bright white bulbs for the headlights and some Phillips 9012's for the fogs. Looking forward to less squinting at night. And not needing to turn on my lightbar to see down the road, then turning it off when a car comes, then turning it back on. Then turning it back off...

 

Excellent. I have seen photos of those bulbs and they are indeed bright. I have heard some mixed reviews about runtime on these so keep us posted. I may go with these once I kill the osrams. I'm glad to see an early first gen get in on this. Most of the 90s toyotas were ground switched, like my 4runner. Did you check that your truck is ground switched? Let me grab a link so you you can read up on it.

You may need those resistors too. I did. I am running one of the 50w in the right empty headlight socket.

 

Here you go. The old toyota section is at the bottom.

http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

 

I believe the setup is different from the 2000 AC to the 2006 DBL. This 2000 seems more like a 1988 wiring setup than a modern one. No light out indicator, no TPMS, no traction or VSC. Just simple.

 

Interested in how it goes for you. Strongly considering doing the headlight mod with new bulbs on my 06 AC.

Tail lights just went out the other day so this has got me thinking about lighting. Any suggestions for replacements of the external cargo light? Also, curious about any good interior light setups people have done. Was cleaning out my interior last week and was frustrated with how dark all the lights inside are. Sorry if off topic for this thread.

 

The cargo lights use the same bulb as the reverse lights. My cargo lights are plenty bright for seeing my cargo. More often than not my cargo lights just blind me and ruin my night vision. I won't add the HIR bulbs to mine. If you do make sure you monitor your Temps. Cargo lights may stay on much longer than reverse lights and the housing is smaller as well. Tread lightly.

 

Makes sense, probably need to polish the housing and just replace the bulbs. Noticed its gotten pretty yellow.

 

Tape up those burnt holes in the Cargo Area Assy with Silver Metal HVAC Tape and then throw some Zevos in.

 

Anyone tried the Zevo bulbs as a replacement for the interior lights? Mainly, are they too bright or look too tacky, and do they get too hot?

 

For all you rule followers...

 

Pros only. Its dangerous out there...

 

I have them in my Cargo. I seem to remember they were the same size bulb as the 921 Reverse Size for some reason. Its been a while. They are bright and do not get hot. I wish the Cargo Lens was more directed and it could be used as a true reverse on demand light, but lo it is a dispersed light lens. No way I’d ever go back with filament in there as the housing melts to easy in a tight space with long interval use.

 

Well if the owner's manual is to be believed the reverse lights and the cargo lamp lights are the same 921 size. Frustrating that it doesn't list a size for any of the interior lights

If advanced auto is to be believed the 194 bulbs should fit the door lights, map lights above front seats, and room lights in the back.

 

I would love to retrofit some OEM headlights and fit a pair of MLED 2.0s in each light assembly. Dual beam low with quad beam high for ultimate light output.

Alas, I has no monies.

 

Opened up the cargo light lens to see the damage of mine...

not pretty! Both cargo lights had burnt holes through the tops of the housings.



Fixed it up with some HVAC extreme weather foil tape (probably a bit over kill).



Now just waiting on the replacement lens I bought from the stealership, called and told me it was in stock only to have me go there and it actually needing to be ordered from Kansas City . Replaced the old lights with the 921 Zevos and man are they bright! Look nice though imo.



Also bought some 6418 zevos to replace the map and dome lights, only to find the rear dome light is maybe 15mm shorter than the front two bulbs. According to Sylvania's website they all are DE3425 bulbs but their packages say 6418 is compatible, so that's what I bought as that's what advanced auto had in stock near me. The front map lights aren't overwhelmingly bright so idk what to think. Side by side comparison with the stock bulbs during the day for reference. Maybe there's some difference between the DE3425 bulbs and the 6418's I bought that would make them brighter? Or they're just the same, idk I'm no light expert.

 

Remove the metal covers on the backside of the lens. Waaaaay better.



Part # below is the center clip for the overhead lights/compartment.

 

Interesting, I'll try that tomorrow to see if it makes much of a difference.

 

Thanks for posting. I'll be doing my cargo lamp as well this weekend with new led bulbs. I need more light in the bed when I'm loading up in the dark for camp, hunt, fish trips. That's crazy your housing is melted like that. Wonder what mine will look like...