What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I spent extra on the Nickel stuff last time I bought anti-seize. It's so much nicer than the copper junk. Doesn't separate as much and good to go for an extra many 100s of degrees.
After fighting and then paying my fabricator/machinist friend to unfuck some stud holes in the 911 heads (exhaust studs did not come out nicely), I gladly paid for the best anti-seize I could find commercially.

 

Continuing the rear frame stiffener discussion.. I found these for the Tacoma on Autorust.com. They're the guys that fabricated my front frame repair caps. I wonder how much difference there is between the Taco frame and the Turd??

https://www.autorust.com/product/mi...coma-1998-2004-double-cab-2wd-4wd-tac-157d-l/

 

Haven’t been on in a while, but this week I got my bed line-x’d and wheel/tires (275/70/17 BFG’s) on. Went to get it aligned per SoCal57’s specs and shop says my driver side ball joint is shot. Looks like it’s time for complete front end rebuild... What is the quickest easiest way to find part #’s for below parts? Should I go aftermarket for any of these parts? @Roman please provide a quote?

• Front Upper Ball Joint - Qty 2 (43310-39016)
• Front Lower Ball Joint Passenger Side - Qty 1 (43330-39466)
• Front Lower Ball Joint Driver Side - Qty 1 (43340-39356)
• Front Outer Tie Rod End Passenger Side - Qty 1 (45046-39465)
• Front Outer Tie Rod End Driver Side - Qty 1 (45047-39295)
• Front Inner Tie Rod End - Qty 2 (45503-09120)

 

@MNtundra That Line-x is looking nice!

I have been looking at replacing my ball joints and tie rods and this is the website that I have found. They are stock but the price is pretty good.
https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-sequo...LiQX-T9Yh8Z9aqOzmMB1BEjRxapBU4FkaAmlyEALw_wcB

 

I use this method for finding exploded diagrams and parts numbers. Replace local dealer with a local dealer, might have to try a few dealer names. This is how I got all the proper part numbers for my front end rebuild.

https://toyotaparts. local dealer .com/

Better yet, here's a link: https://trdshop.carlocktoyotaoftupelo.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-ball-joint-4334039356?c=YT10b3lvdGEmbz10dW5kcmEmeT0yMDAxJnQ9c3I1JmU9NC03bC12OC1nYXM=

 

I use a similar cross-reference technique. Toyotapartsnow dots coms is a good reference point utilizing your VIN#, as well.

 

Vin verification on these sites is definitely piece of mind.

LBJ failure is no joke though.

 

Ordered up some side view mirror glass replacements from Dormans.

Ordered up 2 Sheepskin Seat Covers because they keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. I had a pair on the truck from 2002 until 2013 and really liked them.

 

Yeah. I had the factory recall done in 2006. Put another new Toy OEM pair on in 2018.

 

Started raining last night around 12-1am. Verified no issues with my Bluetooth FM adapter in the rain.

Also verified the radio controls on the steering wheel match the instrument cluster green color.

Gorilla tape didn't stop the dash noise.

 

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on some upcoming Prevent Maintenance Shtuff coming up next month. Bolts/Nuts are to replace the y-pipe flange rusted ones.

 

Where did you order this stuff from? Does a Preventative Maintenance master spreadsheet pdf exist?
For Instance
Timing Belt - Every 100,000 miles
Front End Suspension (shocks, ball joints) - mileage ?
Steering (tie rods, column bushing, etc) - mileage ?
Brakes (pads/rotors) -
Fluids
Etc...
I would find this very helpful as I purchase a high mileage tundra with little to no service history. At this point I am replacing items as the break or wear out.

 

Most of us can't afford PHM's preventative maintenance schedule ....

 

There is one somewhere. I think my Stealer provided it when I bought the truck so I’ll look around. The manual has some suggestions on the basics. FSM provides more detailed info on Ohms Testing certain Sensors like MAF, Coils, o2 Sensors, etc.

Timing Belt 90k miles or 9 years.

Front end suspension on mine started creaking and squeaking at 120k miles. You’ll know when its time when it drives like a boat and the Cams Bolts can’t align the front anymore.

Steering you’ll know if its bad. Leaky rack, PS Pump whining. Tie rods I’m not sure how to test.

Brakes Pads have depth wear grooves and squealers to let you know.

Brake Fluid 3 years, but its so cheap and easy DIY you should do it sooner. Transmission Fluid 20-30k miles if towing. A little more if not. Or, do a drain and fill like an oil change during your normal engine oil change (3-5k miles). Cheap and easy DEXIII.

Truth is I didn’t do anything to this truck other than fluids and tires all by others for the first 16 years I had it. She never broke down or had a major problem other than a bad coil pack.

Check my build page for pics and more info.

 

Did a bit more on the camper today.
Fold out table or stove holder with rubber bumpers so it wont rattle when im driving.
Also installed roof net for lite item's like jacket or towel. And holder for Mr buddy heater when im not using it.

 

Come to think of it haven’t done much spending on the truck these last few months. Mostly some tinkering with dumb stuff for free. Everything is basically done at this point with the early conclusion of the Timing Belt back in October. Hoping for good results on the Oil Pump Leak ‘jackleg FIPG fix’ once I drop the Skid Plate for oil change and inspection soon. Been driving lots of short less than a mile trips these past couple months. Brutal on oil/engine.

 

have a factory skid plate if anyone wants it.

 

Did you get a new one from Skid Row?

 

Fer sure, my friend. HNY!

 

It seems like its always the drivers side that is worse on everyone ones rig. Wonder why?

Anyways, I know this would be challenging. Let us know what you decide.

 

Shadow dancing?

 

Ya, I was just going to paint this one, but I impulsively bought a skidrow one night right when I got my pay check. It cleans up the front alot though so Im happy with it

 

What that'd run you? I may upgrade my plastic one. All these years I thought it was metal because I wasn't paying that much attention. Lol

 

Passengers side is buttoned up except for the tie rod/sway link I'll connect those when I put my rack, and bar back on.

Under its own weight, bounced, and torqued. Everything moves proper. Now that the sun is down its getting real cold, real fast even with the tent.

New mevotech sway bushings came in today.

 

theres a promo code I used that I need to find, but it was 212 after tax and free shipping for the skidrow one.

 

Oooooh. Are there pictures in the armor thread?

 

Sprayed the visor hinge and installed. Darker than OEM but as long as it's gray and not tan I can live with it.



Visor will now stay up. Not as well as my passenger side but waaaaaay better than before.




Grabbed a can of Rust-Oleum universal bonding primer and then did the color coat on the bumper trim. I think I'll hit it lightly with 600 grit and do another color coat, maybe some clear as well.

 

never heard of this armor thread