1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Thick frost this morning.

 

3F this am. Still not motivated to dig out the Tundra, it's likely 2 hours shoveling from the road unless I make a mess driving over it. That would just make final clean-up harder.

 

You need some power!

 

Well, I went out to the local RK to see what they were charging for an individual 32MM socket.

As specified by @TRDGen, and the video that was linked earlier. Thats the size for the SPC UBJ nut.

$27 for a regular 3/4 inch drive socket. Not even impact grade. I have nothing that is 3/4 drive either.


I like this deal mucho bettero.

TEKTON 1/2" Drive 6-Point Impact Socket Set, 14-Piece (11-32 mm) | 4817

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JLBQV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_WXH3Fb9V5QZ7F

 

I was going to recommend the kit I got but it doesn't go that big. Is 32mm for the axle nut? I already bought one of those back in the spring.

Been loving this set though.

$167 NEIKO 02448A 1/2" Drive Master Impact Socket Set, 65 Piece, Standard SAE (3/8"-1-1/4") & Metric (10-24 mm) Sizes, Deep & Shallow Kit, Includes Adapters & Ratchet Handle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXB85S3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HNI3Fb2SD1PA6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

The big nut on the SPC ball joint where it tightens down on the upper control arm.



32mm, at 150 Ft.Lbs of torque.
https://youtu.be/v1RXnk7b2Bs?t=11m20s
Link is set to start right before he talks about adjusting camber.

 

Have to give Ryobi a lot of credit. They used to be a bottom tier brand with clunky tools but they've built their 18v cordless line up to an impressive array of pretty much anything a homeowner could want.
https://www.protoolreviews.com/ryobi-18v-hp-brushless-4-mode-12-impact-wrench-p262/

 

Y’all really don’t want to know the $& I have tied up in the taco

 

If @Darkness was a cop....

 

@Hooptytrix
https://youtu.be/TouDzheqkdM

Edit. Just saw this link doesn't work because its explicit. Look up on Youboob...

Hey there Delilah wap

 

Things go wrong for this FGT on a lift...
https://youtu.be/oZdeLXQp0Mo?t=4m2s

I'd be a very, very, mad lad...

 

What in the actual f!&$... How did he not notice that thing leaning.

 

Must have been a Monday, and he was still hung over. Maybe it was his first day on his own.

When I saw the truck I expected it to snap in half...

 

The boy is a Natural Born Mangler.

 

My master cylinder rebuild kit and my replacement inspection plug for the rear drums have arrived.

MC rebuild kit part # is 04311-34020

 

I’d like to see a side by side of the new vs. old plunger if you can get one when you do the work. I’ve considered this as a PM issue for a while and look forward to doing it on the next brake bleeding within the year.

I bet that cylinder port needs a good cleaning with Alcohol/Acetone and some type of reamer if its anything like my rear drum cylinders. They had a coating on the inner walls that wiped off with the solvents on a dense woven rag.

Question is what/how to clean inside that skinny port?

 

I'll be sure to post pictures when I get around to it. I'm on the fence about replacing the rubber seal that the plastic reservoir sits in. I feel like I'm more likely to break the old plastic trying to remove it. This kit came with it but I'm tempted to replace only the guts. We'll see how it goes when I get started.

I should be able to fit something skinny in there and clean it out. Maybe an acetone soaked rag with a screwdriver. That hole might be a bit bigger than it looks.

This is a screen grab from a video I found helpful. It's not for a Tundra but it gives me an idea of what to expect.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYB4vOv7Iag

 

Some dumb ass left the gas in the tank & carb & you know what happens then....
Rain Thursday, then I will be able to get into garage & figure out what carb i need to order, which will insure no more snow this winter for me.

 

Just clean the sucker out. I’ve never had to replace a carb because of varnish

 

Being lazy. no place to work indoor w/ cleaning solvents, too dang cold outdoors. I can work a screwdriver or socket with gloves on outdoors. Next spring or summer I can clean up the old one & have it ready on the shelf should do such a stupid thing again.

Oh crap. Just realized I winterized the RV, but didn't put stabilizer in the tank. Sounds like a Christmas Friday task w/ a drive to mix it up after.

 

I believe there was a @bmf4069 sighting in there. Who else would have a driveshaft in the bathroom?

 

Its just above freezing tonight. 34°f. I drove an hour to my lunch date with the side view mirrors covered in a very light film of condensation.

No one followed me when I was southbound.

Finished my date, and started trucking northbound home. Sideview still covered in condensate. I pull alanders hill, and am about ¾ of a mile away now. I see this car pop up over the hill.

They catch up to me about 6 minutes later. They're following me about one car length behind. Too close.

I look at the drivers side view, and think. "Wow, the beam pattern in the condensate is uber cool."

I'm glancing between the road, and side views. I noticed the condensate was diminishing on the drivers side. I check the passengers side. Its dwindling too, but not at the same rate. Much slower.

This car follows me for about 4 miles. Both side views are crystal clear now.

I'm dumbfounded that the cars incandescent/halogen headlights are putting out enough thermal energy to clear my side views rolling at 55 mph...

 

well they confirmed that this year i AM getting the christmas bonus (thank god)... so the real question... do i buy the headers and just fuckin go full send? or invest it into the taco..

i also have a 2012 corolla that may be mine for 1500 with a blown engine at 129k miles. new engine for 900 already on stand by if it happens.. KBB value of 5-8k depending on final condition (i think it'll clean up well).. that will be a big bump in funds for the taco.. sooo yea...


AKA long tubes.. or focus purely on taco.. hmmmmm

 

1. Buy and flip the Corolla
2. Go full send on Tundra exhaust
3. Put balance into Taco
4. Party time
5. Excellent

 

Also, it was super nice here in central Indiana yesterday.
So I worked on the 911 instead of getting the knock sensor and injectors installed.
derp

 

Get the Taco done. The headers won't get you running, they're just an upgrade. Get yourself to that place where the projects you have are finished. Life is much less stressful when your projects are done. Besides, Taco parts will be getting harder to get as we move away from final (factory) build date.

Do the Corolla too. That's side-work, not a project.

 

All the hyperflash talk on the WHYDTYFGT thread. Let me venture a question at the risk of being 'shoo'd'.
I have a vehicle from the late 1980's, If you are at side of road w/ emergency flashers on & you step on the brake pedal - you lose the flashers.
Anyone know what I need to do to make the flashers take priority over the brakes? Other than use the right turning signal instead? There must be a fix, but I've never found it.

 

A lot of older vehicles used separate turn/hazard flashers. Might be a simple as replacing the hazard with turn signal flasher.

 

I'd be lying if I hadn't been eyeing a 21 Tacoma TRD with a 6 speed stick.