Diode Dynamics Stealth LED Light Bar

Only if you won’t use it.Otherwise I’m still happy I purchased it. Wasn’t that big of a deal and total install time took me like 3 hours. My family is a road trip family anyway. I have had more reasons while on the road and off for extra lighting than not, so that’s why I pushed on and installed it.

 

If the mounts aren’t an issue or easily fixed I’ll keep it. I was on the fence with going Rago mounts plus 30”BD bar in my bumper. I couldn’t justify twice the price for a bar I will only use for extra light in the fog. Hopefully it’s not as bad as people are making it seem.

 

I personally didn’t think it was that bad. I didn't have to remove the whole bumper either. You may have a different approach but good luck. The performance of the light bar is pretty awesome. To me it was worth a bit of wrenching.

 

I think the bar will be fine. I’m just slightly worried about the mounts now. It may be no issue. I’ll look at everything on Tuesday. Pretty sure I’m planning on installing the same way you did. Looks like you went 42” also?

 

It’s really not that difficult. The hardest part is loosening the six nuts. Yes, the bracket isn’t perfect, but doesn’t warrant not keeping. The light output is great.

 

Maybe I read too much into the complaining about it. Still excited for it to get here. If this thing turns out great I may add the fog lights later.

 

that's a start...having the extra bolt through the bracket into the heat sink. If you figure out how to adjust without removing the fixture and bracket, you've won the prize!

 

I’ll have to look but I think I can take the front inner wheel well gard off and reach in and remove the heat sink screw. If I had oblong the hole I bet it could be adjusted that way as well.

 

I think I'm gonna run the 30" and not have to cut the plastic. and use these. Will mod as needed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/152709107999

 

Well my 42" bar showed up earlier this week. And of course keeping with my trend of not looking before I order something for this truck I realized I have no switch blanks like the last one. I have zero intention of just drilling a whole anywhere in the plastic near the steering wheel I am thinking of going with the SDHQ switch pro kit. This would give me an opportunity to get ready for a hood bulge light next year.

So since it is here 4 weeks earlier then expected I am thinking of tearing out whatever I need to mount the light and drill the extra whole for the heatsink screw in each bracket. Then at a later date once i decide on my switch dilemma ill take care of the wiring.

Anybody that didn't have a switch blank havea different switch mounting idea?

 

@Juanjoolio007 Use the CN Design three switch mount in the "credit card" spot between the gear shifter and center console.

 

Here is a FB link for Nic for the CN Design plate. Pretty slick unit, although he may still be holding off on new orders... Or

Dust off your xacto knife and or dremel skills and cut your own OEM style holes...

 

Thanks guys. I like the price point of that CN plate. I have thought more about cutting a whole too(by steering wheel)and I’m still kinda against it. Only reason being if I decide I want to add a hood bulge light I need to cut another one. I guess I just need to figure out what l am actually going to do and plan it out right the first time.

 

I hear you brother! The switch pros stuff is a pretty neat alternative too though. However, if you end up looking into the NSV light bar for the hood bulge, you’ll end up with a replacement switch panel. I modified mine to add yet another switch for it too. I used the OEM panel as my donor for the OEM switch “boxes”. Just another idea for the meantime.

 

I wanted the NSV in my last tundra but had the bench seat and column shifter. Now I have the right dash but not sure I want the nsv again. However you pose a really good happy medium for a solution to my problem....guess what I’m going to look at next .

 

I am curious now. If you notice, I have the column shift as well as your previous Tundra, what was the deal breaker for you and the NSV at that time?

 

It’s been a minute since I have looked at it but at the time I was under the impression the bottom of the dash(switch location) was different between the two cabs.

 

Oh, yeah I can see that. I am glad that the switch panel under the climate controls are the same in both center console and six seat configurations! Now to decide if you drop the change on the NSV or go with a regular 41” ish led light bar in the hood bulge. Either one will work well and have their pros and cons too.

The deal breaker for me on using a random light bar in the hood is that none, that I have looked into, have fitment like the NSV WITHOUT having to cut the hood tabs underneath the bulge. I may be incorrect, but doing so appears for the potential of having structural and weathering problems for the hood... thus why I shelled the $800 ish bucks for the knight rider (I got it on sell).

YMMV, best of luck in the endeavor and keep us posted

 

Looks like I need to see if it’s compatible with this setup now too.



Pre workout is in full effect so this is going to have to wait till I’m done in the gym.

 

It is. That is what I had before... minus the glass breakage sensor. I relocated my USB/AUX unit to an empty above the trailer brake controller.

 

Well I just had a couple minutes to look into this again. I just happened to be on AJT's website and saw this "credit card" spot you speak of. Well I don't have that spot. I also was looking at the NSV light bar switch mount and that doesn't have the space for both 12v plugs, the glass break sensor or an extra switch location.

So looks like I am back to square one. I either cut a hole in a panel somewhere for the little supplied switch, drop over 600 bucks for the switch pro kit with the leather center console piece, or i return/sell the bar and switch directions back to some amber fog lights. Thank god I am in no hurry with this.

 

Would you snap a pic of your console area below the shifter/shift gate?

Do you currently use both round 12 volt plugs? The one I use is plenty for my use. However, you are able to purchase the usb plug to locate in the end round 12 volt plug. I use a simple blue back-lit usb charger for the switch plate and swapped out the NSV usb plug for the rear.

I think you could keep your glass breakage sensor and usb/aux with the NSV switch plate AND then add the third by cutting out the “NSV” emblem square for the third switch (stealth bar switch).

I know you are not in any hurry which is why I extend an offer to help you out. I am a neighbor state and would be able to help with your install if that is agreeable...

 

The Platinum does not have the credit card spot but I purchased the non-platinum piece to get the credit card spot for the CN Design switch plate. I do not have the room in the spot where @ElNopal added his. Having seen the work of ElNopal he is a real craftsman with many more skills than this country boy.

 

Sure I can grab a couple pictures. Just picked it up from the dealer.
To answer your question no I don’t think I have used either of those plugs. I also have one in my center console. I do have a USB adapter plug just chilling in there as well. I appreciate your mounting ideas. Helping me with not making another haste decision I’ll probably regret later.
I don’t really want to cut/drill anything yet cause this one is a lease. I fully intend on buying it once it’s up. I’m half way through and only has 11,300 miles. But I guess there is always a chance I change my mind. It’s happened before lol.

 

Oh, I see. I did not know that about the Platinums. Thanks Steve for the compliments but I am not that talented, just curious!...

So the non-platinum piece you purchased, how much is it and do you have the part number? Would it also be able to be swapped back out to stock in the event that George does not indeed follow through with the purchase? This seems to be the route I would explore because of the price point and ease of reversing the “mod” if need be... I also have a black CN Design switch plate if you go that route...

Another suggestion, and I am going to do this to have a blank spot for my rear pods, is to unclip the “Auto” OEM switch for the automatic headlight high-beams. This switch is absolutely worthless for me and the function is questionable at best. I plan on tucking it in behind the dash... Perhaps, this may also work for you and be zero cost and totally reversible. Just would like you to use your bar the sooner the better!

Best!

 

Matt - I have seen your work and it is fabulous!
In the OEM parts thread look at posts 3100-3110 roughly and my conversation with Roman about the correct part number and others asking why.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-oem-toyota-parts-thread.10707/page-104#post-1887695
I think it was about $40 and can be swapped out easily. I am saving my Platinum piece to swap back later if needed. I can't get to mine for a picture right now but I also wrapped the surround on the new piece to get rid of the chrome.

 

Thanks again, hermano

 

Any suggestions on how to fix the flex? I shimmed the light bar so that it was centered, and after tightening down all six nuts, it settled onto the plastic. A washboard road is going to destroy this thing. I've re-checked everything. I think it's just the design of the bracket itself which is sub-optimal.

For now, I put two small strips of 3M VHB double-sided tape underneath between the bar and the plastic. You can't see it and it's janky AF, but it does not move as it did. With my luck, the tape will melt on first use and cause a fire.

 

I installed my DD42 2 weeks ago… i went on a road trip and almost lost the light bar. Those shitty ass mounting bolts came undone. By the time i reached the hotel, i had 1 bolt hanging on for dear life and the other bolt was completely gone.

Went to home depot, bought 1 M1.0(or whatever hell the size is) bolt and loctite. So both bolts stayed place for the remainder of the trip and drive back home….

HERE IS MY ISSUE.

The damn light bar goes from being aimed properly, and as soon as i start driving, the wind pushes the bar, and it ends up aimed at the top of trees. Im so close to taking it off and selling it.

Do i need to add a washer in addition to the 1 bolt per side? Will this prevent it from moving? Because i have the bolts screwed in as tight as possible.

**I watched the headlight revolution install vid and dude DID NOT use a washer in addition to the 1 bolt per side.**

 

I have the exact same issue. It’s always pointing up.