1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Wow. Worked with the Iowa weather. Took a test drive when it was 51 out. Threw the folded rag down and under and up and over the cooler. Crawled underneath and BAM. 115.

She looks good with a shiny new bolt and crush washer. Will bring her up to PHM standards later.

 

She’s a beauty Clark

 

I was so annoyed last night. When I did this in October I was able to drive to the store, turn off the truck, go in for 10 minutes, then drive home and the temp was at 120. Now I couldn't hardly break 100 reliably.

 

It's also a conspiracy between the housing industry and government to get you to buy new homes where the roads aren't salted!

 

Just had my insurance inspection done. It passed but mechanic recommended a few things. I'll have to do a bit of research on this and then get under the truck in the next day or two and check it out myself. I think I can do alot of this myself in a weekend. The steady bearinf in the quote I believe is the carrier bearing. Pretty sure that's been mentioned here as fairly easy

Here's the quote.

-Transfer-case rear output seal leaking
-Rear driveshaft center support bearing has excessive play
-Engine belt cracking

Thoughts?

 

If nothing else the price for the belt replacement is crazy, it takes 15 minutes at most and if you own any tools is simple.

2 hours on the carrier bearing seems high. I did mine in 1.5 and that includes driving to my FILs because I didn't have the correct socket.

 

Yes and if u look online, it is highly advised not to pull your truck into a warm garage cause that will cause a lot more rust compared to it being frozen all the time. I found it very interesting and surprising

 

Not sure about canuck price conversions, but the Accessory Belt is easy. A 14mm ratcheting flex head on the Tensioner (turn counter clockwise slightly) and slip off the old. Slip a new Gates HD Belt ($32 Freedom Units). Golden.

 

Well here's the kicker, my passenger side parking brake cable is actually broken, so the p-brake only engages the right side. So I'm not even getting optimal performance.

Here I sit though. Happy. Content. Stopping when I want. Please tell me there is a way to be less happy and covet some unnecessary 'upgrade'.

 

Buy a Turd Gen?

 

I always wondered how I was going to stop if my hydraulic brakes failed when my parking brake stopped working. It literally would go to the floor without engage. Sometimes I’d drive with it on because I’d forget it was engaged until the light would catch my eye so I just stopped using it. Had a goofy mechanic ‘adjust it’ years ago which did NOTHING.

The PB is actually a secondary brake system to your hydraulics system should it fail. Took me about 1.5 years over about 5 adjustments to figure it out. Each time the PB got better, but not perfect as designed. The Cranks Pins and Center Equalizer Lever(s) discovery have it right now. The truck lifts up when put in drive with light pedal when the PB was prior engaged. Wheels do not move unless heavy pedal.

 

Anybody found a switch that fits in the blanks where the heated switch buttons would be?

the wife’s sequoia has heated seat buttons beside the passengers leg. My truck has blanks, and I’d like to put some fog light switches. It’s those stupid oval switches

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-can-i-use-this-switch.69566/#post-1799766

 

thank you sir, I priced the oem switches, Those things are outrageous lol

 

So I filled up with 93 Octane last week just to see how it would perform. Cost of gas is low and I get these Hand Model Reward Points for People that Eat Really Healthy. Anyways, cost me about $1 a gallon.

After a week of driving the truck feels strongly on top of the already strongly on the low end torque accelerations. Been all City driving at mostly under 40mph speeds. Truck feels like more power. I feel like a Turd Gen’r reporting this. Maybe I’ll look into buying a stubby antennae next?

 

Stubby antenna make fast.

 

I’ve done a few 91 Octane fill ups as I try to avoid ethanol. Anyway, I haven’t felt like I noticed anything different between 87 non-ethanol and 91 non-ethanol.

 

and it has leather seating for 6. I've never seen a front leather bench, not even in the pic's on that ad.

 

Yeah I would think just for the non-ethanol it's worth it if it isn't much more money.

I bought one of those, then the local car wash ripped it off for me and broke the screw down inside....don't listen to FM/AM anyways

 

people are idiots. You should ask if the leather is cracked on the seats anywhere.

 

The one flaw in this theory - Toyota keeps reframing their trucks.

P.O. is why I won't buy Apple products. They do a brilliant job of planned obsolescence. I admire how well they do it, but exactly why I don't shop there.
OTOH - I like it in shoes. I'm happy to toss away shoes after a year.

 

Spread anti corrosion peanut butter on your brake lines - for winter protection. When the squirrels start chewing on your lines you will get slow leaks of brake fluid. Then you can covet braided stainless steel brake lines.

 

There have been some phenomenal suggestions. I'm feeling less happy already, my peanut butter sandwich contents are already spread on all soft brake lines. Can't wait to post up the results.

The frame recalls would seem to run contrary to the salt related PO/Deep state conspiracy, but since you can't ever debunk a claim based on no evidence I'll counter. The frame recall is obviously a ploy to make it look like some auto makers are different and better. The whole industry pools the money to pay for it.

 

Same here on the 91. The few times over the years when a pump is out of 87 I’d go to the 91 and feel no difference. This is the first time in I can’t remember how long using 93.

 

I forgot, you live in Amazo City. There’s no rust, high octane gas flows like water and brakes have potatoes.

 

Alright boys. Today we are getting her tired rotated (feelin lazy, think im gonna let the wage slaves and discount tire do it for me). Then im buying a can of grease and fluid film and doing some finally touch ups before salt gets put down. Although i dont need any touch ups cause I applied 12 cans of woolwax already u can still see all the red dirt from redland USA

 

Hey man what size is that bolt and washer? Is that the atf pan?

 

Well, maybe I'm tired, maybe I forgot, maybe I haven't looked until now, or I'm tearing a page out of @FirstGenVol's book.




So after a quick eye-balling, and some Google-Fu. One of these is not like the others. All present are for my truck EXCEPT for part number 48409-60020. Its for Tacoma, FJ, etc.

Glad that I caught this before install day.
Thanks to @Festerw for the video link earlier. That gives me inspiration, and more confidence.

 

Is there a way to check integrity of lower control arm bushings aside from visual cracking and/or deterioration? Or is there a glaring indicator that LCA bushing need replaced (aside from seized cam bolts / lack of alignment)? Went down an LCA lower bushing replacement rabbit hole last night and got scared because things were burning on various youtube videos... but would like to check their integrity as part of my vibration track down.

 

Just placed an order through big gurl for the one adjustment cam that I don't have.

As far as I know cool springs is still shut down.

The LBJs look to be correct. I've never handled any off the truck before, but based on pictures others have posted it looks good.

I guess this adjustment sleeve for the Tacoma is for sale? Not sure i can send back a part that I didn't order?

Will the stickers matter when the sleeves are installed?