1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Appreciate the input and recommendation. The steering shaft is also tight upon quick check. I also realize I'm trying to chase a common problem that has multiple root causes. More so just open for more items to check in my quest.

 

To answer your question, I think the drive shafts can get out of balance. I had a driveshaft shop inspect my U-joints last year because I thought I had a bad one. While they had the driveshaft off they put it on their machine and said it was out of balance so they "balanced" it. I wasn't having any vibrations like you though. My issue ended up being my slip yoke and once I greased the piss out of it, it stopped.

 

lol it’s all I think of now, thanks to him, whenever someone says near miss.

 

Thankfully I’ve got all the supplies to paint my camper shell already because all of my Tundra money for the next few months just went poof.

 

So I'm planning to do my front breaks in the spring.

Finally fixed rear drums and e break cable everything is nice and tight now. I noticed my front pads are getting close to being done so I wanted to ask for some advice.

I read up on the break upgrade forum but it does not clarify many things.

I do not tow anything at the moment I am planning on going to 33s soon and I just want the best breaking that I can get. I'm rocking with my AC 04 I heard the the 05 and 06 got a bigger caliper?

Should I just get the newer calipers that the new models got?

Some people got some calipers machined down and worked ? ( imdemented ) could you chime in on this?

Are slotted rotors worth it ? Or high end pads?

I'm just trying to find the best option that people have found. I'm handy and can do the work myself.

Appreciate any impute

 

I don't think so. I believe 03 and up have 13WL calipers so that's likely what you have. My 02 had the smaller 13WE calipers.

He and I both did this. You have to buy 14WA calipers that come on the Lexus GX460 and the 4Runner. All the info is in this thread.

I think most people have said than non slotted rotors are actually better. I would probably just replace your pads and rotors unless your calipers are in rough shape.

 

Is there a significant difference from doing the lexus swap out ?

 

Same parts, just used on different vehicles

 

i meant a significant difference in the stopping power of the bigger break set up ? like is it worth doing it?

 

That question is still under deep debate.
Not sure if I will do it due to cost, headache, and I already have the larger setup(06 DC) which I recently found out my fronts use the same stuff as my 4runner(early 5th Gen)

 

Seems like a lot of work for little reward. I'd upgrade pads/rotors and get some stainless lines first.

 

Read my last post in that thread I linked. Yes, the truck stops better but the pedal travels a mile now. Others I've talked to including I'm Demented have not experienced this issue. One person in that thread had the same problem but hasn't said if he ever fixed it.

 

You have 14WA calipers on your Tundra? That's what the 5th gen 4Runners have.

 

I wouldn't say little reward but it is a lot of headache. If I could do it over and avoid the mushy pedal I'd just upgrade to 13WL calipers.

I think anyone who feels stainless lines make a big difference is experiencing a little confirmation bias. Stainless lines didn't make a big difference for me.

 

so I have 13wl on the tundra and 14we on the 4runner, but the same pads are used, I may have misworded my first statement.

I agree about the lines, I believe they are still rubber lined hose with a stainless braid on the outside. As far as the plumbing world goes(maybe @Darkness can confirm) the braid is just for aesthetics, and in the truck world maybe just for abrasion reasons

 

They’re rubber on the inside. The braid does indeed serve a purpose and that is that it prevents the line from swelling under pressure. This is how it can actually make a difference in pedal feel.

 

I think a lot of times stainless lines are just for looks. Technically the stainless braid around the line keeps the line from being able to swell (pressure going outward on the lines) as much and in turn keeps the pressure going towards the pads and onto the rotors. I really haven’t looked at our brake lines but I’d they are short than there is really no room for improvement. If our lines were 5ft long from hardlines to the calipers then you would see a better improvement with SS lines.

edit: typing slow on my phone and empty lord beat me to it

 

Going to stainless lines on my Avalon, really firmed up the pedal. Putting good fluid in it also helped a lot. Pad choice also can make a difference. Chances are though, the 14wa calipers might very well be past the ability of the stock master.

 

Haha me talkin shit about SS brake lines, meanwhile.........
me also......

 

Wheelers are great. One thing people don’t realise about stainless braided lines is that the ones without a PVC coating on the outside? Shit gets in the braids and rubs through the rubber line, ending in brake line leaks

 

Yeah I literally just opened that box, and noticed that clear coating on it, almost like a clear heat shrink.

 

Well I got a few trees to go cut down. Finally almost “done” with clearing all them..

 

I was gonna take my stainless lines and drive off a cliff... now I know there will be someone with me

 

I will add that if not for the mushy pedal this would be a huge win. I'm also more OCD than most so something like a mushy pedal drives me nuts. I'm able to pump the pedal a few times to build up pressure and then it feels amazing. The truck has a lot more stopping power than before.

Apparently the double cabs have a bigger diameter master cyliner bore so it's less likely for them to get the mushy pedal.

 

I’ve done experiments on this brake stuff and here is my story:

1) I had never bled lines before doing them on this truck and used DOT3. Tons of black came out in the fluid which I discovered is rubber that deteriorates from the inside of rubber line.

2) Truck stopped better with new fluid! Couldn’t remember the last fluid change but maybe 5 years prior? Makes sense.

3) Decided I’m good at this now since I was successful using my ‘Patented Widdy Wack Bleeder System’. Decided I’ll do new Red Wheelers Braided Lines. Bleed the new lines with DOT3 again. Brake Pedal had more even flow with the braking. Felt more lineal braking through the push vs. the soft to hard potatoe feel. Discovered a little cracking inside the old rubber brake lines. I’m sure they were bloating a bit during braking causing a little mush.

4) Said to myself, self you should upgrade the Calipers now. Went upgrade to the WL13 from WE13 ‘weak’ brakes on the early 2000-02 models. Also, discovered El Fluido Supremõ Bosch 5.1.

5) Truck has a little better stopping power. The pedal feel didn’t change with the larger brakes, new pads, and the fact that the pistons all work. The old WE13’s had a few seized pistons I believe based on inspection/test.

6) Bled all the brakes again of the newer DOT3 with the new Supremõ Fluid 5.1. Truck brake pedal felt about the same. Where I notice a difference is in tow/haul in summer heat. The pedal doesn’t heat fade like the lower temp threshold of the DOT3.

7) My opinion on the Momba Lexus Brakes is that if you are going to do them do the entire system upgrade like the g-off inventor guy said in his opening statements about them last year. Some comments I’ve read here and elsewhere sound like a non-confident brake pedal long squish push feel to instant grab unless you do the full work$.

8) I like to feel like I am stopping when I push the brakes even a little bit. The Wheelers Hoses gave that ‘feel’ on both the WE and into the WL13 Brakes. Did they make the truck stop better? No, but they make the pedal more consistent for sure through the push on both types calipers.

9) Reducing weight or not adding weight helps in better braking. Smaller tires would help.

10) Properly adjusted Rear Drums/Parking Brake help better braking.

11) The little clamp thingy on the springs in front of the axle helps with the brake feels. Unsure if I stop better, but it feels better.

 

I agree with @FirstGenVol on the stainless lines. I've done it on my truck and my GTI and neither time made a difference. The pedal felt the same, maybe because I had bled my brakes on both vehicles before swapping lines. I have felt a firmer pedal when going from significantly worn pads to brand new pads.

@FrenchToasty I think the steel web is there to prevent the line from swelling up, I also think a rubber line in good shape doesn't swell up. Maybe when the lines are old, weathered, and no longer resisting pressure, then an SS upgrade could make a difference. By the way on water heater flex lines those steel webbed hoses always bother me, its like a wrestling match. They look sweet but I still prefer the copper flex lines.

Some factory rubber lines (my VW for example) have stainless webbing in them with a rubber coating. I didn't believe it until I replaced mine and cut one in half. Hearing what @empty_lord said about stainless lines without a coating, now the VW factory lines make more sense.

 

Its the simple things that make me the most joyous. Like a better way of organizing.



Also, I bought a label maker yesterday. Purchased the more expensive machine by $2-3 because the tape refills were $10 cheaper than the "cheaper" machine.

 

Supercharged 1st gen at home depot!!! Holy cow!!

 

That thing is clean too! I like those wheels but I don't recognize them. Either he got a new frame at some point or it's a non-northern truck.

That sticker doesn't necessarily prove it's supercharged right?

 

Does anyone know if this is true? Pretty sure is, if so, the people who call 00-02 the runts of the litter and piss off! We have the japan built motors! Not like it really matters though