This truck can't handle 285/70/17

I don't pay attention to my mpg much but it's around 14 with mixed driving daily on my 06 with 315 70 17 and stock 4.10 gears. I expect that regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 would get me up 1 mpg or more and make it more fun too. My suspension doesn't seem to wear too bad and I'm only running(or was only running because I'm not running anything now) 2" lift spacers up front and a 1" diff drop.

Honestly for a small half ton truck I'm impressed with what my tundra has done. My old Titan had more power and would have pushed 35s better, but mpg was 13.5 mixed with 33s on 22s. So it wasn't exactly an economy vehicle either.

 

Sure did. An admitted non expert.

Lets do a regrouping of this thread.

1) The OP thread title says the ‘truck can’t handle 285/70/r17’ which you and our ‘in house expert’ says is the equivalent size to my 285/75/r16 (within .10”). My truck is proof that ‘diameter’ tire can be handled. After all, my tire is slightly bigger? This truck is on its 5th set of 285 tires.

2) Now go back and read my intro post #5 response. Absorb it. Nothing will change what I said. Its an opinion based on years of experience.

3) In my #5 post response, it was suggested to skip the spacers which you later say “99% of the time you do not recommend”. I agree with you here 100%. You simply did not understand the 1.25” minimum, tried to walk it back with mumbo jumbo, and then turned into the ‘spelling police’ where you forgot to add a period at the end of your sentence.

4) People commenting on wheels without telling us the year of their trucks in relation to the OP.

Back on topic: Maybe Toyoboyo can shoot us some pics of his set up?

Give us a little service history?

 

for everyone's reference, I compared 3 different tire sizes for their weights and measurements. My tire choice was the staple BFG KO2 all terrain E rated.

Size 1 - 265/75/16 (+1): 53lbs, 31.6" diameter, Sect. width of 10.5"
Size 2 - 285/75/16: 59lbs, 32.8" diameter, Sect. Width of 11.2"
Size 3 - 285/70/17:58lbs, 32.7" diameter, Sect width of 11.3"


As you can see, the specs of a 285/75/16 and a 285/70/17 are almost identical. Hopefully this clears some things up for people.

 

My understanding is that the 5100s shouldn't be put to the top notch with stock UCAs and without a diff drop kit. Could be wrong though. I'm running 2-3" spacer lift up front and everything seems to be just fine (it's been there a LONG time too. PO installed).

 

You only doing city driving? I get 15 hwy in my 05 tundra with 33.5s

 

I went with the 255/80 17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and haven’t noticed much drop in MPG or power loss. I think this tire is the sweet spot. Haven’t needed any trimming either. So far really happy with this set up.

 

I have 285/70/17's on mine also, and 5100's are on the 3rd notch. It rubs a little on the inside when turned hard. Which notch should they be on? I don't have a lift, just an extra spring in the back. I get about 14 mpg on the road.

 

Cajunman. do you happen to exactly where your tires make contact when you turn hard?

 

This thread is all over the place so I will pretend I haven’t read anything after your first post.

First and foremost we need more info about what exactly is wearing out. Bushings? Ball joints? What?

MPG.
Your tires have a 7% difference in size than the Oe 265/70/16.
When you refill and check mpg multiply your miles X .07. Add that back to your miles. For instance your odo indicates 200 miles between your fillup. 200x.07 =14 so you’ve actually traveled 214 miles.

A 285/70/17 is not over the limits of what your trucks suspension can handle.
I wheeled my 99 Tacoma (same front suspension components as your Sequioa) for 4 years on 35’s with little failure (aside from breaking a CV every time I went wheelin, but that’s a whole nother issue).

This is what I would recommend.
Remove the wheel spacers. They are adding extra leverage by moving the tire and wheel so far out. 1.25 isn’t extreme but again, this is what I would recommend.
Second. Your front end only has a couple other wear components. Lower control arm bushings, lower ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer) and rack and pinion bushings.
Without any knowledge of your service history I would start by replacing all of those 5 things.
History tells us that you would be better off buying a new set of LCA’s because the bushings aren’t easily replaceable. I would go straight to toyota for the LCA’s, BJ’s and TRE’s.
You can find low cost OEM parts from places like cool springs Toyota or toyotapartsales dot com.
For steering rack bushings energy suspension makes a poly urethane set. Can’t go wrong there.

Okay, after all the wear items are replaced... it sounds like you may be lifted way too high but I can’t say without seeing it. I thought the highest setting on the 5100’s was a no go.

When we lift our trucks with adjustable coil overs all that does is move the suspension to a static location that is closer to full droop. We have roughly 6.5” full suspension movement. The ball joints are the limiting factor for droop (down travel).
A lot of the times some of these lifts actually put your suspension very close to full droop. This will tear up ball joints in a hurry.
Imagine the ball joint like your knee cap. It can only go so far in either direction and you’re gonna mess things up if you try and force it past.

I’m just some dude on the internet so feel free to take what I say with a grain of salt. However that’s where I would start if I was in your shoes.

 

As an FYI, 17” wheels were one of the stock sizes available on 1st gen Tundras and Sequoias.

If the 285/70/17 tires are BFG, recommended rim width is 7.5” - 9”.
Those SEMA rims are 7” wide.

 

Its been a few weeks. Are you pregnant?

 

Mega Bump! So sorry guys, been really busy. Anyway, here are some photos of my truck...

Truck:

2005 TOYOTA SEQUOIA, 2WD (NO 4WD)

Wheels/Tires:

17x7 4Runner TRD PRO, 285/70/17 BFG K02

Spidertrax 1.25 wheel spacers

Suspension:
Bilstein 5100 All around, OME 862 springs on the rear with firestone coil-rite air bags (completely deflated).

Polyurethane bushings on steering rack.

All products were purchased from suggestions of Tundra Solutions forum (1st gen sequoia section). That forum is way too slow for any feedback.

Goals:

This is a beater truck, wanted to make it look as little "Soccer Mommy" as possible. Every time I see this car on the road it's a beat up jalopy driven by a Mexican mom or it's in mint condition driven by an elderly person.

Willing to add a rear locker and re-gearing if possible. Please suggest!

Symptoms:
Both front wheels rub on full lock and even less at times.. If there's a heavy load in the back of the vehicle, it stops rubbing.

Alignment and steering wheel way off and misaligned.. Steering wheel off axis to the right and it's all over the road sometimes. If I correct the steering wheel axis to dead center, the truck pulls hard left.

Clunking from the front, most likely lower bushings.... In the photos, is my upper control arm bushing leaking? They are nearly brand new SPC arms.

Transmission doesn't like to shift into 5th and constantly seeks gears. Cursing at 45-50mph it will stay locked in 4th gear which crushes MPG's.. I have to set it on cruise control for it to shift into 5th then cancel cruise.


Sorry for bold letters and if it seems like I'm yelling. Just wanted to make this stand out in between the debates.. I am welcoming all posts and answers and actually enjoy reading your opinions.. Can anyone recommend a shop in Phoenix AZ? 4wheelparts any good?

 

I'd also like to add that it has some beefier sway bar end links from a shop here in AZ. Forgot the name.

 

It looks like you have SPC Upper Control Arms, so you should be able to get your alignment correct. I'd try a different alignment shop.

2wd should be able to use the top setting on front if you have stock springs. I'd remove the wheel spacers in front & see if you have clearance issues.

 

Wouldn't removing the spacers sink in the wheels/tires more which would cause even more severe rubbing?

 

4:10s are stock?

 

Just for reference, I get 11mpg with 33's and an 1100lb slide in camper on steep pass roads in Colorado. Is it just me or does the upper control arm look like it's positioned too far above the top of the shock?

 

"4wheelparts any good?"

A lot of mixed reviews on them, but wanted to mention there is a member on the Taco version of this forum who manages a Orlando, Fl store. He seemed to know his stuff and his store had good reviews, maybe he could point you towards a good one in your area.

 

On some trucks yes.

4 wheel parts is actually great for getting alignment done. Be ready to pay about $120 but it will be done right. I don't go there for anything else.

 

I had my front end rebuilt by them and they did a great job at an awesome price compared to many other places/prices I’ve heard thrown around. First time I’d ever gotten a High Dolla Alignment (never heard of one before) and questioned why so much. Well worth having all the compound angles aligned properly. Truck still drives like a dream 2.5 year later.

 

Yup, I was used to $50-60 for alignment. The first time I called them for an estimate I think it was $100, I passed and went elsewhere. My tires started showing odd wear by the first rotation so I went to 4 wheel and paid them. Took a few hours but when I got the truck back the specs looked great and the odd wear stopped.

Last time around I think it was $120, I didn't even flinch at the price.

 

They charged me $150. The standard alignments were $79 around here which isn’t the complete deal and doesn’t address everything.

 

Island life comes at a cost. I would pay 150 no problem for it done right.

 

Yep. The thing was at the time I had no idea there was a top notch alignment and was skeptical of the cost. I could see the front end angles had changed when looking at the front after the work was done. Truck turned better and no more wobbles. Well worth it.

 

He has a double cab right? Did those have 4:10s?

 

The more I think I know about offered gear ratios the more I see that contradicts what I knew. That said, 4.10 seemed to be pretty common with double cabs.

 

And Sequoias, iirc.

 

I have read that. How do I confirm what gears I have?

 

Your Factory Service Manual or Owner Manual.