What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Almost hit an owl/Hawk. Not really sure. I'll find it on my dash cam, and see if it saw it.
At this rate I'm gonna need a windshield guard too.

My parents didn't name me Noah for no reason. I attract a whole boat load of animals.

Editing in video links. Music is loud. Headphone warning to turn your volume down.
https://youtu.be/XWVhJK3qbiY
https://youtu.be/F_O8cY9RoYk

 

Sir, I believe the correct spot would be mounting it up under your bed. Get on it!

 

To fit longer ones. You'll see once it's done

 

Are any of you guys running the Osram 615905-35W 12V GY6.35 reverse lights? This costs about $18 for both and the install only requires you to bend the contacts a bit with a small screwdriver. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. The color temperature 2900k and the cri is a perfect 100. I set a fixed exposure for my camera on these pictures. The dog is about 15 feet away for scale.

$11 Osram Northstar AV 69378 Bare Lamp Replacement

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BMUFN8/
These lights are called Halogen IR. These are close to the power and output of HID technology without all the extra baggage.

 

I’ve the ZEVO Sylvanias LED (owned by Ostram?)

Pretty bright plug and play about $25 pair.

 

I'll start with the rear brake line, I can get that done before Christmas for sure.

 

I had to adjust my clock this morning for the time change
I really need to drive this truck more...

 

So last night I FINALLY found the source of a noise that had been bugging me since I bought the truck a couple months ago. With the windows down and while driving through parking lots or at lower speed on the road, I would notice what I’d call a quick tapping or rattling type of noise coming from the undercarriage. I played around with everything until I noticed the some of plastic clips that hold the fuel lines against the frame were loose where they mounted to the frame. Any slight bump in the road would cause the fuel lines to move and “tap” these clips against the metal frame. I’m sure they can be replaced, but I simply used zip ties around the fuel lines and fit through openings nearby these clips to snug up the lines to the frame. No more annoying tapping and embarrassment as I drive passed my neighbors in my apartment complex! On to the next project.

 

Do you have there shackle hangers?

 

Nope. I just have leaf springs that can extend beyond what my 5100 shocks can handle. To get that travel that I have been missing out on I will relocate the rear shocks so I can run 11" (because I have them) shocks or even 12" shocks.

I'm not sure if I would get the hammer hangers kit. Looks beautiful but I don't know that I would need it. I suppose I could do a little off road drive and record what my shackle mounts are doing while I drive to check for flex.

just noticed Archive is running 10% off sale this month, storewide!

 

Fixed one 'loose' climate control knob and did preventative reinforcement on the others.

The knobs like to crack lengthwise along the plastic. I used hot glue along the plastic ribs and then heat shrink over it to prevent spreading and to tighten up the one that had cracked.




Cost me nothing but a few minutes since I already had everything.

 

Light em up

 

The final piece for the collection from SkidRow has arrived

 

That’s a lot of door twangers in a small area.......... just sayin.......

 

2 twangers 1 box

 

Which headlights do you have Tundra2? Is that your high beam that looks so spotlight or is it dedicated spot/driving beams?

 

OEM housings, and katana fanless leds. I chose to do away with my projector set up.
Link.

High beams with a 21" light bar tied into them. The spotlight type light is the bar. It looks much wider in person. All my cameras show it to be a "spotlight."

AUTOSAVER88 22" LED Light Bar Curved (24" with Mounting Bracket) 120W Work Light 4D with 10ft Wiring Harness, 20000LM Offroad Driving Light IP68 Waterproof Spot & Flood Combo Beam Light Bar

Link.


This is an old picture.

 

What made you decide to change back from the projector lights?

 

I got used to the minimal power draw of led lights. I was so used to flicking on the headlights to work in the yard, or around the house with the truck off.

I would forget that the projectors weren't LED. So when I would flick the lights on, and do stuff it would cause weird issues with the electrical system. Thats why I got stranded at the gas station. The alternator was putting out just enough juice to keep the truck running, but not charge the battery at the same time because of the high draw of the headlights.

Here is a link to a video I made of the battery guage when I was rolling 60 mph rolling the window up, and down.

https://youtu.be/avwS3--AYDw

Edit: there are more posts below the link provided in the lunchtable thread about my diagnosis of the headlights being the problem.

Second edit: does this make any sense to anyone that isn't me?

 

Look into those Morimoto LED 2.0 as they seem like the perfect type lighting for you from readings. They may be more light than I need around the Island. I’m this close to buying some.

 

You mean these? Bi-Led?

 

End cap came off my passengers side wiper.
Rubber squeegee was sliding out of the groove with every stroke.

Bent metal pin down to get home. I might be able to get another 2 years out of these.

 

Order up some of those Designer Densos Blades. Promo Code Hand Model.

 

I see what the issue here is.
Looked at the wrong vendor.

 

Well, here's a link to those Bi-led projectors.
Link.

 

How many watts were your headlights pulling?
Why did you not use LED's in the projectors?
What alternator do you have?
Is there something wrong with the battery?

 

That link is to some Stage III Models.

The ones I posted are the M LED 2.0

 

35W ballast per headlight. Not sure what wattage my headlight resistors are. With the ballasts only I still wasn't getting the High beam indicator on dash, I think? Its been a while.

I wanted my fogs to work too, so I hooked both resistors back in.

Didn't think about it, and I was tired of never quite feeling like I had them adjusted correctly.

I have duralasts "HD cold weather equivalent" as said here. I realize that in that linked post I state that my headlights were eliminated as a culprit, but it wasn't until I used my lights again without running the truck that it occurred to me that they were the problem. Even though nothing was wrong with them. I'm just forgetful.

Battery was load tested back on October 8th. As stated above in linked post.

 

You've only got an 80 amp alternator. 2002 4.7s had the option of a 100A and sequoia 150A alternators will bolt right up to the Tundra 4.7 as well I believe. I'm not sure what your options are for the 3.4 though. Here is a thread on upgrading the alternator on Tacomas with the 3.4.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/upgraded-alternator-3-4.362979/