What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I have not found a different filter that would fit that tube. Its possible AEM might make a dry one that works since they are part of K&N. AEM dry filters are pretty good at trapping dust. Might be worth calling them to ask, if they have it I may buy one myself.

The scary oil on MAF sensor never happened to me and I ran one for 2 years and never had a problem. If that happened somebody was using way too much oil. Give it a light coating and let it soak up for a few hours before driving.

Now for the filtration, K&N will never filter as well as a paper element. I don't think any reusable filter can, I have tried several.

 

As my Southern Friends like to say: ‘Es more bedder.’

 

it appears that this AEM will fit. That's based on the specs of the K&N compared.

https://www.aemintakes.com/21-2049dk-aem-dryflow-air-filter

I also found this Air Raid dry filter that is intriguing to me.

https://www.airaid.com/701-422-special-order-univ-fltr

 

I'll take a look at that, I haven't looked in years and back then the problem was the odd sized tube end where the filter slides over.

Of the lifetime filters I have tried out, AEM had the best construction and the least residue found in the tube beyond the filter.

Airraid dry filter had the most sloppy construction, and considerably smaller surface area than stock (on a panel filter anyhow). Filters okay on the dusty residue test.

AFE dry filter was pretty good in the construction and filtered pretty well according to the dusty tube test.

K&N oiled filter construction is good but has visibly bigger holes in the media when held to the sun. The oil is possibly the saving grace by after checking the tube it does allow some dust to pass through.

 

@lsaami not sure if that AEM will fit. It lists the inside diameter as 3.5 where the K&N kit is 3.125

Is the tube on your kit black plastic or the metal chrome one? That makes a difference. I have the black one, of course.

 

I also have the black one. I was going off the ID of the filter that comes with the kit. RF-1045 which has an ID of 3.5. if the pipe has an ID of 3.125, it would make sense that the filter would have a larger ID to account for the wall thickness of the pipe.

 

Interesting if yours came with that filter, mine came with RC-5100 and has different specs. If I have time later today I can dig mine up and measure the flange ID.

 

Interesting... maybe they revised the model. I definitely have the black plastic, and the current black plastic model comes with the RF-1045. I'll have to take some photos and measurements of the flange/pipe.

 

I've decided I'm going to run the K&N filter for 1 oil change, and then send a sample to Blackstone Labs and see if it will actually cause more contamination in the oil.

I'll post the results in the future...

 

@Darkness To muddy the waters even further, there's a different model number between the 00-04 trucks, and the 05-06 trucks. and the 05-06 model has a 6" inlet.

I give up!

 

Yeah I recall that model change. I'm going to measure my filter and see, if it really is 3.5" and I've been thinking its 3.125 all this time that opens a lot of doors for better filters.

Be warned though, the sound of these intakes will make you lose mpg, the motor sounds so mean with it.

 

Ha! I'm already in the single digits. how much worse can it get!?!?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS69owXpGdY

I wish he'd have throne in a paper filter too

 

Did it make a difference if he pulled the charcoal filter out?

 

Those oem style ones are what we call paper

 

anyone care to summarize?

 

Changed my rear brake shoes. Didn't buy a spring kit, so it was a PIA putting it all back together.

Original ones lasted me to 225K miles. Huge difference in braking. My front rotors don't shake when braking from highway speeds anymore. Guess I should've done it 20K miles ago.

Old pads below...

 

Dirty oem filter is bad for power
Oem filter is okay for power
Aftermarket oem style filter is slightly better for power (surprise)
Performance lifetime filter is better for power

But...

As we saw in another recent controversial dyno challenge, the more warm the engine and exhaust are you can expect horsepower to go up slightly. I wish he did a control of testing the oem filter again at the end of the testing. Unless his reveal of results was not in the order of his dyno tests.

 

I would just add: Negligible difference between dirty OEM and regular OEM.

And he did mention something about how they couldn't say at what particulate level the filters were actually picking up, i.e. maybe the performance filters weren't filtering as much.

Number improvements between OEM, Aftermarket, Performance were roughly 1HP + 1TQ between the three on Dyno +/- 0.2

 

For the hassle of having to clean the hi flow filters, I think I will stick with the oem cassette filter.

 

Ditto. OE air filter and oil filter here.

Gotta do the wife's '12 Highlander oil this weekend. Fortunately uses the same filter canister wrench as my Tundra. One more reason she loves me keeping the Tundra.

Realized in the last 10k miles or so she has the infamous steering shaft 'clunk', but we're past warranty and doubt the stealership will cover it. Meh.

 

Her 2012 still uses the throw away canister? Or did you change your tundra to the replaceable insert?
Haha I’m the opposite, the 4runner needs like 6 tools to do the oil change, the tundra needs.......one, maybe two if you don’t have the ball valve drain.

 

Her 2012 has the cartridge, my Tundra 5.7 does as well, although I've debated whether to continue that route, just haven't bothered to look up the conversion. Both use the same 14-spline wrench to pop open the canister, you pop the plastic cap in to drain the oil out of the housing, replace the seal, insert new element, button it all up.

I'd never dealt with anything that before these two, I don't think any of the pre-2005 GM or Honda vehicles I owned used anything like that so the 1st time I had to change the oil in the truck, it was a head-scratcher moment, had to consult the internet.

 

You have 2 Tundras?

 

Sneaky sneaky!!! I didn’t know your had a 2nd gen!
I’ll edit later, but there is a adapter for the bottom plug on that cartridge, so it’s less messy. I ALWAYS bend or snap something on that plastic pos they give you with the new filter cartridge and end up with oil all over my arm.....

 

Yeah wtf! We’ve all been hoodwinked!

 

I keep considering the k&n cold air. But only because it reuses the stock box on 05-06. Keep the stock filter, remove the stupid resonator box. My only thing stopping me from buying it is the fact they moved the mass airflow sensor.. that pisses me off.

 

Uhm....

About that plastic thing, you know you can attach a 5/8" hose to direct the oil, right? Or am I missing what you're saying?

 

Dirty oem 158.25 hp 137.25 tq
Clean oem 160.10 hp 137.43 tq
Aftermarket 163.30 hp 140.80 tq
Performance 164.3 hp 142.50 tq

Can you feel 6 buff ponies? Not likely when you have 160 of them.

Do you sacrifice some level of filtering ability with performance filters? Yes, you do.

I run an AEM, but in the past (when I lived in my home town) if I planned to do some driving in the dirt I would swap to an oem filter that I keep around. I don't mind washing my AEM every year, some would argue it isn't worth the time or effort and thats hard to argue unless you're a cheap bastard. To me its more like a renuable resource than a performance upgrade.

 

Oh, and thankfully I don't think the Tundras have the steering shaft clunk. Her Highlander does. Drives me damn crazy. Less than 70k miles on it, started clunking around 60. There's a TSB on it, if not a recall - I forget - but dammit if we didn't miss the window on having Toyota replace it for free. I hear it's a really shitty repair to do by yourself and the part is exorbitantly expensive.