Oil leaking from main bell housing AGAIN!

If you decide to have it done, make sure the tech checks the depth of the “ pins” that aligns some plate on there. Sometimes they are not set deep enough at the factory and cause this leak. That was the case with mine.

 

Thank you for the heads up! After reading through several of these posts, I suppose I never considered the dowel pins to be out of spec...that's simple mechanic-ing 101 I assumed...regardless, I'm having my Indy Shop taking a look and am scheduled to drop off in a couple weeks...I'll be sure to mention the dowel pins to them!

What's your assumption on a potential cost if it is only a Rear Main Seal? Was my assumption accurate?

 

It's not that they are not set in deep enough. Toyota got a bad batch of pins that were slightly too long and cause the rear main oil seal plate to not seal properly.

 

Sounds like you bought a ford, You sure it says toyota on it?

 

Nothing a cutting wheel can't take care of

 

Yes sir, you don't have to take very much off so bench grid a bit off. Toyota has rectified the issue and the replacements are correct.

 

Aren't there oil tubes on the back of the engine? Or are they coolant tubes? If they're for oil I could see them being a culprit as well

 

If your taking about the silver tubes they are for the air injection.

 

I didn't know that! Thanks for the clarification

 

Some of the weepage concern is overblown in my opinion. If there are no drips on driveway, I wouldn't touch it. It's a lip seal, not a double mechanical seal. Last thing I would want is to create a problem when they tear everything apart.

 

He has a 2014 and I can't recall what year the dowel pins were a problem but it was for only one year. It's possible that if the plate is leaking because of the dowel pins Toyota would cover the repair. I would definitely check with the dealer.

 

Yeah, I haven't had a leak since owning my 2014...after a recent oil change, I started noticing drips in garage floor...crawled under to tighten something and noticed it was the fresh oil all over the bell housing underneath...shouldn't be cam towers as that was addressed early in its life and the exhaust shields are still shiny and clean...just started and was wiped down...I'll look again in a few days as it will be a week since it was discovered...if nothing is showing, great, if there is still weeping, boo...no matter what, it will be looked at and addressed as I use the truck daily for towing and getting to work...fingers are still crossed!

 

Mine was covered under warranty so I have no idea on cost. Sorry

 

I struggled with that thought as well when I had my problem...

 

Repair involves removing the transmission. Labor time is about 5 hours and about 30min to reseal the plate and replace the rear main seal. Take the shop rate times 5.5 hours and some charges for shop supplies and taxes.

Maybe you'll get lucky and Toyota will cover it because it's a dowel pin issue.

 

Thanks for the insight and expectations...I'll ask them if it's the case!

 

I had the same issue at 50 miles with my 2015. Took it back to my dealer, they dropped the trans and pulled the rear main seal out, there is a aluminum casting that the seal is in. This casting is located by dowels. It was found that the dowels were not fully seated in the engine block which caused the casting to cock and not sit flush against the block. They had to tap the dowels in to the block to the spec. This allowed the rear main seal to sit flat and eliminated the ware due to the offset. The leak was eliminated. I have not had any problems since.

 

Noted and thank you all for the suggestions and your experiences with such! I look forward to forgetting ever happened!

 

i have the same isssue with my 2010 toyota sequoia. had the rear main seal replaced and it kept leaking. then they said it was the oil pan gasket they replaced it and its still leaking. the repairs were not by toyota it was another mechanic shop but now im going to take it to toyota to get diagnostics done. ive waisted 1200.00 so far. hopefully toyota can get it fixed..

 

Whoever did the oil pan slop job should find a job they may take pride in, they sure don't take any on working on cars.

 

Come on man, do you realize what you're asking for???? Nobody gives a rats ass anymore. These damn kids don't even want to show up for work anymore, let alone give a shit about their "job performance". I guess that you and I along with a few others are expecting too much...Rant over

 

It's not the RMS or oil pan gasket...it's an o-ring from a recirc that can only be accessed when engine is out away from bell housing...it's a simple repair but will cost $3k so I'm just living with it until I need something serious on my blown engine...oil.is cheap and so are rags...it is annoying but not worth the repair yet...

 

Could you elaborate more on this O-ring from a recirc?

2008 Sequoia has 230k miles and it’s been leaking small but pouring out oil in my last 1000 miles tow of 5000 lbs trailer. I had the rear main seal replace and still leak then reseal the rear seal housing and tap in the dowels but still leak a lot. The oil was forming droplets along bottom of subframe after 30 miles drive. I am stump on where else it could leaks so much. How do I look for the oil pan seal leak or pan cracks as some others have mentioned? Any other ideas?

 

My 2010 sequoia is having the same leakage

My 2010 sequoia 255k is having similar leakage. There is a few drops on the floor sometimes. I’m wondering how much it cost to get it repaired.

A dumb question: is this the leakage from engine oil or transmission fluid? The transmission oil hasn’t been changed. I guess it needs to be changed with a high mileage. Thanks!

 

It's engine oil as the rear plate on the block that holds the rear main seal is not tight against the block. The shop ground the dowel shorter then use FIGP to reseal. All is good for last 5k miles.