What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I actually removed 13WE calipers so I would assume that would make it even worse.

 

Definitely. 13we are 1.77" pistons.

2.46 in³ area X4 = 9.84 in³

 

Going on memory the WE and WL looked like the same size pistons. Just larger pads.

 

I didn’t even think of that, your probably spot on with that. It was a looooooong way down/up. I thought it was BS that the trail took 4 hours round trip. I was wrong

 

So, you thinking there is any chance of fixing this?

 

Close but not quite. 1.77" vs 1.81"

By eye it'd be easy to miss.


Which options and master cylinder the truck has will also matter. Standard & Access cab trucks have 13/16" bore master cylinders, while double cabs have 3/4" bore. So variations in reported pedal softness may depend on what truck they swapped the calipers onto as well.

 

you wheel well is so clean damn. Can I pressure wash my suspension and inter fenders without messing anything up?

 

Yeah, just a smidge. The bottom lip of the tailgate bracket slightly rubs against the torsion bar, but it hasn't been an issue so far. For the price it's a good mod.

Edit: I meant to say I should have drilled the hole slightly lower (about 1/4") not higher.

See pics here https://www.tundras.com/threads/adding-tailgate-assist.71398/#post-1841685

 

I'm not sure why it's so clean. All I do is spray it down after wheeling. But yes, to answer your question a pressure washer should be fine, just don't put the tip right up against things.

 

Hand waxed the truck after work tonight, took some pin stripes out nicely. Still old but looking good and paying me back for the love I've been putting in lately.

 

That actually looks really sweet. Did you do anything to keep the holes from rusting? Also how do you like the swingcase?

 

I didn't do anything, but I keep wondering about rust. The swing case is great. Have a bunch of towing stuff in there instead of under the rear seats since I have 2 carseats in the back of the truck. Makes life A LOT easier.

 

Stainless lines will help bring firmness back

 

Wheelers is having a 10% off sale on theirs too

 

Already have them. I'm not convinced I bled them enough. Hoping that's the case. Gonna try to find some smaller diameter hose that fits the bleeder valve better.

 

I went from single piston to much larger dual piston calipers on my Avalon, with new stainless lines, the pedal was actually much firmer than before! The increase in piston area was roughly 70%. Much more than the wa swap nets

 

Your truck have abs?

 

Si. Fuses are pulled but it does have it.

 

Put them back, take it for a drive, get the abs to activate, rebleed. Sometimes this will free air pockets up

 

Easy. Change to a larger bore master cylinder.

T100 are 4 bolt. Depending on your options you may need a 2 bolt master. All will need at least one line rerouted.

92-99 Camry 1", 95-99 Avalon 1" (w/o TC), 98-02 Sienna 1" (w/o TC).

93-99 Celica 15/16". Might be the closest to stock pedal feel. Of course, won't know until it is tried.

Possibly Rav4 7/8", only 1 step up size wise. Will need both lines rerouted.

 

I hit a deer with my Tundra today.

 

Good resource on comparing sizes of master cylinders and calipers. Only need to read about halfway for the relevant info.
https://www.joesracing.com/master-cylinder-math/

In any case, I used the simplified formula to determine area sizes: Bore x Bore x .785

Caliper piston sizes & area sizes:
1.77" = 2.46"
1.81" = 2.57"
1.89" = 2.80"

Master cylinder bore & area sizes:
13/16" = .52"
7/8 = .60"
15/16" = .69"
1" = .785"


Then to determine the leverage ratio between master & calipers, use this formula:
Caliper Piston Area x 2 / Master Cylinder Bore = Leverage Ratio

With stock MC ratios are:
13we = 11.6:1
13wl = 12.7:1
14wa = 15.7:1

Then compare the different masters with the 14wa calipers to get near the OEM ratio:
14wa & 7/8" = 13.0:1 (softer than stock)
14wa & 15/16" = 11.4:1 (close to stock)
14wa & 1" = 9.9:1 (stiffer than stock)

I'm considering grabbing one of these for my truck. How much further up would either of you recommend drilling the hole vs the template?



What would be sweet is if we could adapt the hinge parts off a 2nd gen and hide a gas strut behind the tail light like theirs do. Anyone keen to Frankenstein it?

 

I just took a look at the post I made about it and it turns out I meant drilling slightly lower, not higher. I'd say 1/4" if I were doing it again but it's not that critical. Have a look at the pictures I posted to gauge if you'd do it any different. https://www.tundras.com/threads/adding-tailgate-assist.71398/#post-1841685

 

With the tailgate down, how much room between the torsion bar and lip of the tailgate?

Hard to tell from the pictures how much room there is to go down without causing a new problem area.


Worst case scenario, I'd take the angle grinder and flap disc to the edge of the hinge.

 

Lets see if these pics I just took help... You may be just fine with the template measurement of 3-3/4"

Gate fully open, no interference. Whatever lube I sprayed on the torsion bar is where you see the dirt accumulation.




Tailgate almost closed, very slight rub on the torsion bar.




Now that you mention it, hitting the edge of that hinge bracket with my flap disc also came to mind. Turns out the rub is so minor, I never bothered.

 

How fast were you going?

I'm worried about hitting bambi, and him flying inside the deer guard just like it appears happened to you.

Depending on speed that may have just been its head hitting your bumper while the deer guard took the brunt of it.

Turned its brain to pink goo.

 

They do, somewhat.

I just realized the way I phrased it was a bit unclear. I meant how much room between the torsion bar and the lip that is the 'face' of the tailgate. By that I mean the part that becomes the 'bottom' or 'floor' when the tailgate is fully down.

In your 1st pic, it's the part with the rectangular hole in it. That isn't covered by the bedliner.


Am I making any sense?

 

Thanks for posting that, another item to add to the Big Gurrl wish list.

 

Have you done this swap? Is the T100 Master a direct bolt on or does it require modification? I'm not sure what you mean by 4 bolt/2 bolt.

 

i hit the body believe it or not. It was coming across from the drivers side, I locked up the brakes so I was probably only doing 30-40 when I hit it. Bumper is obviously smashed, grille guard is tweaked, and probably the code support deal that goes underneath the grill.

good news is, I have a replacement core support, so I’m going to try angle the insurance company to allow me to fix it myself.